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tong-ah

9 posts2009live thread
ginni
I just made myself this tonga.

The inside diameter is 12 mm, the channel is about 10 mm large at 35 cm from the tail, at about 30 cm from the front end is starting to become larger, 11 mm at 15 cm from the front end.

Only problem I have was the straightness, I straightened the bamboo before making the hole and the channel, and after I have done it I observed that the bamboo becomes slightly curved, I am aware to try to straightening because it can crack.

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I shot few times inside of my apartment, but not at full draw, only about 60-70 cm, was very curious.

Tomorrow I will test it.
ginni
I shot today few times, lose two arrows...
This thing is scary, I cannot control some reactions, I close my eyes when shoot...the speed is amazing, hard to see the arrow in flight (and imposible with eyes close).
I should lower my position, it will be easier to get the tong-ah back without touching my face.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-el6UVTemkE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqZKxO4-kDU
Dusan
Looks good Ginny. I planing work in mi 1 tonga too, but first i must be more "friendly " vith mi litlle korean hornbow devil. When i have full control feeling i starting vith this interesting thing.
Bede
Ginni,
I have two comments and one question.
  • 1. Curl your bow hand thumb downwards and out of the way. It is less likely to be hit if there is an accident.
    2. When nocking, reverse the bow so that the arrow guide is uppermost. This makes it easier to keep track of where the arrow is in the groove. It is useful during the draw to be able to see the position of the arrow in the guide out of the corer of your eye.

    When you are at full draw, is the curve of your guide in the horizontal plane or in the vertical?
ginni
Thanks for comments!

Bede, I am not sure what you mean by the curve, if you refer at the channel, it is oriented horizontally, slightly upward.
The rear end of the guide is touching the string with his both edges, I usualy dont put twinst on the string, but with the guide I dont know...I put some pressure on it to keep the arrow point very inside.

When locking high a can see the arrow tailing up and down, if locking slightly lower than my nocking point use for long arrows, the dart is going straight.
Stephen Selby
Keep it safe, folk. I tremble just reading these posts. :cry:
ginni
Thank you for your worries Stephen, I think this device is dangerous too and I try to make it as safe is possible, this is why I ask everybody here.

I have relative long arrows, 55-60 cm in lenght and I will shot only these for a while. Maybe next year it will be the time to go to shorter darts, but only to 35-40 cm, I wouldn't shot something like persian very short darts (like Bede do).
Bede
Ginni,
You wrote:
Only problem I have was the straightness, I straightened the bamboo before making the hole and the channel, and after I have done it I observed that the bamboo becomes slightly curved, I am aware to try to straightening because it can crack.

That is the curve I meant. I thought you had a curve in the guide that was caused by it losing some of its straightness. If a guide has any curve it it that allows the dart to get out or not proceed along it in a straight line there can be problems. The worst curve is one that occurs dynamically when you release the bowstring. If that ever happens, throw the guide away because it is an accident waiting to happen.
ginni
Bede, the last 15 cm of the front end are slightly up curved (I refer to the shooting position), is not a very prononced curve.

I want to make another, I made an excesive taper to the rear end and I feel it not safe, at full draw the point of the dart easily comes in contact with the chanell if I am not very careful.
Maybe the channel should be little bit narrower.

Can advice some dimensions of the inside, if I use 9,3 mm point, how large should be the hole and the chanell?