Egyptian composite information
Hi!
I just read the old thread on Egyptian composites started by Jack Farrell (http://198.170.107.188/phpBB2/viewtopic ... torder=asc) but unfortunately the pictures are no longer available.
There is also a build-along in the Primitive Archer-forum (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/inde ... 346.0.html), which contains some information on the cross-section.
I also saw the Assyrian bow by Grozer and I think it is similar (http://www.hunarchery.com/catalog/produ ... cts_id=121)
In any case, I like this design a lot and I'd like to make one. I suppose I could do it with the typical horn/core/sinew-scheme, but working a bit closer to the original sounds very appealing. I am still a beginner and still use modern glues, except for the sinew, but I envy people alot when I see the great bows presented here on the forum. So I'd appreciate it if anyone can provide pictures or maybe give me a hint on where to find more information!
Actually, this applies not only to egyptian bows. It is hard to find detailed information without knowing where to look. There should be more books like Adam's!
Kind regards,
Daniel
I just read the old thread on Egyptian composites started by Jack Farrell (http://198.170.107.188/phpBB2/viewtopic ... torder=asc) but unfortunately the pictures are no longer available.
There is also a build-along in the Primitive Archer-forum (http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/inde ... 346.0.html), which contains some information on the cross-section.
I also saw the Assyrian bow by Grozer and I think it is similar (http://www.hunarchery.com/catalog/produ ... cts_id=121)
In any case, I like this design a lot and I'd like to make one. I suppose I could do it with the typical horn/core/sinew-scheme, but working a bit closer to the original sounds very appealing. I am still a beginner and still use modern glues, except for the sinew, but I envy people alot when I see the great bows presented here on the forum. So I'd appreciate it if anyone can provide pictures or maybe give me a hint on where to find more information!
Actually, this applies not only to egyptian bows. It is hard to find detailed information without knowing where to look. There should be more books like Adam's!
Kind regards,
Daniel
Daniel; Stephen organized this article about my posts- what a guy! It contains the original drawing.
http://www.atarn.org/islamic/egyptian_composite.htm
The best source is Mc Leod, Composite bows from the tomb of Tutankhamun. He gives all the other references. Actually the companion book on Tut's self bows has info on arrows and other materials.
The most common scheme for Tut's bows was wood core with horn belly and sinew back. but other near Eastern examples were very elaborate construction.
I would recommend maple core, or an equivalent. Please use glue such as Pearl glue made in Germany. It is cheap and out performs synthetic, besides being authentic. If we are to learn anything about the ancients we must approximate their materials and designs as best we can.
The primitive archer article would not necessarily represent authentic information, but pages from Mc Leod are copied there. The Grozer bow is a kind of interpretation on another design of the Near East.
I finished two more bows since all this was posted.
If you follow authentic designs, you may gain the attention of intellectuals. If the bow is based on fantasy, there will be a different following.
http://www.atarn.org/islamic/egyptian_composite.htm
The best source is Mc Leod, Composite bows from the tomb of Tutankhamun. He gives all the other references. Actually the companion book on Tut's self bows has info on arrows and other materials.
The most common scheme for Tut's bows was wood core with horn belly and sinew back. but other near Eastern examples were very elaborate construction.
I would recommend maple core, or an equivalent. Please use glue such as Pearl glue made in Germany. It is cheap and out performs synthetic, besides being authentic. If we are to learn anything about the ancients we must approximate their materials and designs as best we can.
The primitive archer article would not necessarily represent authentic information, but pages from Mc Leod are copied there. The Grozer bow is a kind of interpretation on another design of the Near East.
I finished two more bows since all this was posted.
If you follow authentic designs, you may gain the attention of intellectuals. If the bow is based on fantasy, there will be a different following.
Jack, thank you very much. I could not find this link on the main page. I ordered the book, too, but I will have to wait a while for the delivery.
Regarding the arrows, I read about cane arrows and I already cut some plants at a river. They should be dry by the end of the month and then I'll see if I got something useful. I really hope so because obviously I also want proper arrows.
By pearl glue, do you mean hide glue that comes in small beads? I have one that comes in flakes. When I first used it, I glued to pieces of wood together to see if I prepared the glue correctly. I did and was amazed, although it should have been obvious there would be no way of ripping the pieces. How else would people have been able to make composite bows?
I won't get maple before winter, but I have cherry sapwood, elder and rowan. I also have elm, but I am aware that there can be problems. I am reluctant to use a ring porous wood, but then again ash seems to work. I think I'll go with elder for a start.
How did your other bows turn out? Did you put side laths in the core?
Regarding the arrows, I read about cane arrows and I already cut some plants at a river. They should be dry by the end of the month and then I'll see if I got something useful. I really hope so because obviously I also want proper arrows.
By pearl glue, do you mean hide glue that comes in small beads? I have one that comes in flakes. When I first used it, I glued to pieces of wood together to see if I prepared the glue correctly. I did and was amazed, although it should have been obvious there would be no way of ripping the pieces. How else would people have been able to make composite bows?
I won't get maple before winter, but I have cherry sapwood, elder and rowan. I also have elm, but I am aware that there can be problems. I am reluctant to use a ring porous wood, but then again ash seems to work. I think I'll go with elder for a start.
How did your other bows turn out? Did you put side laths in the core?
Daniel; I have made now four bows using the plan shown. American ash is very different than the European type and much less suited to horn bows so the painful lesson is to avoid using it. But the backed angular bow worked well using ash. Maple would be my choice, as it may have been for the Egyptians.
Phragmites is harvested after the first really cold spell. If the canes dry with flutes along the surface, they will not do. they should dry smooth and glossy.
Pearl glue is hide glue. Do others have experience with flake type glue?
Make experimental samples gluing with hide glue to learn the cadence. Heat as well as water are tools.
If you can absorb Mc Leod, you will be knowledgeable in the subject. -j-
Phragmites is harvested after the first really cold spell. If the canes dry with flutes along the surface, they will not do. they should dry smooth and glossy.
Pearl glue is hide glue. Do others have experience with flake type glue?
Make experimental samples gluing with hide glue to learn the cadence. Heat as well as water are tools.
If you can absorb Mc Leod, you will be knowledgeable in the subject. -j-
I don't know american ash, but I heard from another bowyer that he had a failed european ash core. Apparently the early wood failed in shear. I haven't seen it, but maybe it was too fine ringed. I have quit a few pieces of ash, harvested last winter. I could probably saw 20 ash cores. But I'd need a special saw blade because ash makes the normal ones blunt rather quickly.
Thanks for your advice on the Phragmites. I was looking for thicker ones which I thought are more than one year old. I'll see how it goes and plan for further harvest in November.
The book should arrive in about three weeks. I'd prefer to have it tomorrow, but I think of it as another test of patience.
Where did you get ibex horn?
Thanks for your advice on the Phragmites. I was looking for thicker ones which I thought are more than one year old. I'll see how it goes and plan for further harvest in November.
The book should arrive in about three weeks. I'd prefer to have it tomorrow, but I think of it as another test of patience.
Where did you get ibex horn?
Daniel; An archaeologist provided the horns to me. They are also available but takes some work and some species are unusable, as you may know.
Dusan was right when he asked why newcomers experiment with inferior materials. I have gone down a long road with ash, making fabulous self bows, making magnificent backed bows and failing miserably with ash cores for horn bows. My best time for making a hornbow is something between 60,and 70 hours plus materials.
How many times can an ego take failing with this ammount of time required before becoming exhausted? Therefore start along the correct road to avoid backtracking to the beginning point. Start with a maple core. -j-
Dusan was right when he asked why newcomers experiment with inferior materials. I have gone down a long road with ash, making fabulous self bows, making magnificent backed bows and failing miserably with ash cores for horn bows. My best time for making a hornbow is something between 60,and 70 hours plus materials.
How many times can an ego take failing with this ammount of time required before becoming exhausted? Therefore start along the correct road to avoid backtracking to the beginning point. Start with a maple core. -j-
I understand your comment about using inferior materials but for me it is a little more than that,it is trying to find and pushing the bucket as its said in america to the limit,I want to try and see if there is some way to improve it,I am tired of hearing people say that horn composites are full of myths and not facts and old stories are just that,old stories,i agree that one should learn from other's mistakes but there is also the question of exploring possibilities.
When I first spoke aloud about my thoughts on Mughal decorations on bows only Mr,Karpowicz took the observation seriously,Its surprising what all there is still to explore.
I respect your opinions and advice that's why I seek it out.
thanks
P.J.Singh
When I first spoke aloud about my thoughts on Mughal decorations on bows only Mr,Karpowicz took the observation seriously,Its surprising what all there is still to explore.
I respect your opinions and advice that's why I seek it out.
thanks
P.J.Singh
PJ; I honor and respect your opinion also.
What I am trying to understand was how the originals were done, the exact materials, process, the lore of ancient archery.
I am merely trying to recapture the history of the bow and neither invent or change anything.
Pushing the bucket to the limit defines modern compound archery. This is an interesting past time but just not mine.
OLd stories are precious. Take the Aqhat saga. There are four lines in it telling the oldest story of how an angular horn bow was made in Caanana, 1300BCE. It names the core wood. But the translation is not perfect. Some day some really nerdy old linguist will satisfy the critics and we will have this formula.
So it might be better if there has been done some experimentation with a wood such as maple, which grew in the mountains of nearby Lebanon and still grows there today rather than trying Bamboo, for instance, for a core which might push the bucket but was not available at the time and place and can prove little.
Please excuse me for my opinions. Jack
What I am trying to understand was how the originals were done, the exact materials, process, the lore of ancient archery.
I am merely trying to recapture the history of the bow and neither invent or change anything.
Pushing the bucket to the limit defines modern compound archery. This is an interesting past time but just not mine.
OLd stories are precious. Take the Aqhat saga. There are four lines in it telling the oldest story of how an angular horn bow was made in Caanana, 1300BCE. It names the core wood. But the translation is not perfect. Some day some really nerdy old linguist will satisfy the critics and we will have this formula.
So it might be better if there has been done some experimentation with a wood such as maple, which grew in the mountains of nearby Lebanon and still grows there today rather than trying Bamboo, for instance, for a core which might push the bucket but was not available at the time and place and can prove little.
Please excuse me for my opinions. Jack
I wholeheartedly agree with Dusan. I would not want a horn bow to blow because of a known inferior material. But I'd still try unknown ones and see if they are good or not. Of course this is just bowyer's curiosity and does not give insight on historic bows, except for learning their mechanics and construction.
So I considered ash. If it was used in the originals then I suppose it should work. If I use water buffalo or highland cattle horn for lack of ibex horn, and maple because it works, and red stag sinew, would it still be an egyptian bow? Or rather a bow of egyptian design?
I checked the cross-sections in the article on Jack's bow and I see that the core is made of pieces about 4mm or 5/32" thick. If I work the ash carefully, I should be able to make the laths from a single growth ring and I think that then there is no problem.
On the other hand, I have never liked ash very much, so there might be "bad karma" and I should avoid it.
So I considered ash. If it was used in the originals then I suppose it should work. If I use water buffalo or highland cattle horn for lack of ibex horn, and maple because it works, and red stag sinew, would it still be an egyptian bow? Or rather a bow of egyptian design?
I checked the cross-sections in the article on Jack's bow and I see that the core is made of pieces about 4mm or 5/32" thick. If I work the ash carefully, I should be able to make the laths from a single growth ring and I think that then there is no problem.
On the other hand, I have never liked ash very much, so there might be "bad karma" and I should avoid it.
Daniel T, leave your curiousity. Don?t use ash as a core for a hornbow. The cores of Egyptian hornbows are such a delicious matter, you should really use the best possible choice. The point is not if your ash could be cut to one growthring, the point is the capablity of glueing and physical weight.
You can do a hornbow with any bow- wood, any horn, any glue and any sinew, but if you don?t have a very serious look at the glueing capablities and physical weights of your raw-materials you?ll end up with a lame duck, you?ll never experience the true qualities of a hornbow.
Just follow Jack?s advice.
Michael
You can do a hornbow with any bow- wood, any horn, any glue and any sinew, but if you don?t have a very serious look at the glueing capablities and physical weights of your raw-materials you?ll end up with a lame duck, you?ll never experience the true qualities of a hornbow.
Just follow Jack?s advice.
Michael
This is an interesting discussion. As to the authenticity of materials - there is such an overlap in the engineering properties of all four materials in the bows that I do not believe replacing, for example, the ibex horn with water buff makes any practical difference. There will be small statistical variations, but no doubt one can find a piece of ibex of exctly the same characteristics as buffalo, or a piece of mulberry mechanically exactly the same as maple or ash etc. So, I see no problems in replicating an Egyptan bow with any type of wood or horn.
The engineering props are not all, however, as I have written in my book. I actually made a decent Persian style bow with ash at one time, but I will not use ash again because the early growth rings make the absorption of glue and the uniformity rather suspect, plus the operation of grooving ash is also difficult for the same reason. I think, as others suggested, it is best for a novice horn-bowyer to make the first bow with proven materials. Then one potential source of failure can be eliminated and the bow should work, providing encouragement to make another one. Once the process is learned, it is quite ok to experiment. Actually, all I have ever done was the experimenting and I firmly believe one learns a lot more this way, rather than repeating the proven methods over and over to make more bows, which is the common route for the commercial bowyers. It is interesting usually the commercial bowyers tend to perpetuate the "myths", I guess because the myths, the lore and the "secrects" sell more bows. As a researcher, I am free to experiment and I can afford to be impervious to the myths (I hope this somehow transpired in my book). Anyway Daniel, use maple unless you hate maple for some reason, then use birch or even hickory which should be safer than ash or oak.
Adam
The engineering props are not all, however, as I have written in my book. I actually made a decent Persian style bow with ash at one time, but I will not use ash again because the early growth rings make the absorption of glue and the uniformity rather suspect, plus the operation of grooving ash is also difficult for the same reason. I think, as others suggested, it is best for a novice horn-bowyer to make the first bow with proven materials. Then one potential source of failure can be eliminated and the bow should work, providing encouragement to make another one. Once the process is learned, it is quite ok to experiment. Actually, all I have ever done was the experimenting and I firmly believe one learns a lot more this way, rather than repeating the proven methods over and over to make more bows, which is the common route for the commercial bowyers. It is interesting usually the commercial bowyers tend to perpetuate the "myths", I guess because the myths, the lore and the "secrects" sell more bows. As a researcher, I am free to experiment and I can afford to be impervious to the myths (I hope this somehow transpired in my book). Anyway Daniel, use maple unless you hate maple for some reason, then use birch or even hickory which should be safer than ash or oak.
Adam
I had not thought of the glueing properties, because these woods are not oily. But I'll gladly trust your experience and thank you for your advice! I will see if I can get my hands on good maple. It should not be a problem.
By the way, I was happy to learn that birch is good for cores because I like the tree but never made anything out of it except for a few war arrows.
Then water buffalo horn it is. I could not find a source for Ibex.
By the way, I was happy to learn that birch is good for cores because I like the tree but never made anything out of it except for a few war arrows.
Then water buffalo horn it is. I could not find a source for Ibex.
Daniel
I had a look at the Egyptian composite in the Pitt-Rivers Museum (Oxford, England) last year. The upper glass on the display case was lifted for me, but the bow was under another glass sheet beneath this, so I could not get a very good look at it.
The wood used has not been identified. The bow is described as having a core of stringy wood with strips of harder wood each side overlapping (to form an H shape), rounded to the outside. The belly has two thick layers of horn and the back a layer of horn covered in two layers of sinew. The bow is wrapped in sinew at the ends.
The birch bark covering, horn and sinew are broken away in places to expose the core. The side strip wood looks diffuse porous. It is a darker colour than maple - nearer the colour of cherry wood (though cherry is not a particularly hard wood). I could barely see the core and the grooving hid any grain, but it appeared the same colour.
Andrew
I had a look at the Egyptian composite in the Pitt-Rivers Museum (Oxford, England) last year. The upper glass on the display case was lifted for me, but the bow was under another glass sheet beneath this, so I could not get a very good look at it.
The wood used has not been identified. The bow is described as having a core of stringy wood with strips of harder wood each side overlapping (to form an H shape), rounded to the outside. The belly has two thick layers of horn and the back a layer of horn covered in two layers of sinew. The bow is wrapped in sinew at the ends.
The birch bark covering, horn and sinew are broken away in places to expose the core. The side strip wood looks diffuse porous. It is a darker colour than maple - nearer the colour of cherry wood (though cherry is not a particularly hard wood). I could barely see the core and the grooving hid any grain, but it appeared the same colour.
Andrew
Andrew, thank you for the description. What a pity I didn't know about this one. Last year I spent a week in England for work and while there I visited the Royal Armouries in Leeds and Warwick Castle. I could have stopped by in the Pitt-Rivers museum on the way back to London.
The Pitt-Rivers Museum has a very nice online gallery ? unfortunately the bow mentioned is not shown there.
But the site is worth a look anyway: http://webprojects.prm.ox.ac.uk/arms-an ... s/Archery/
Best wishes,
Jan
But the site is worth a look anyway: http://webprojects.prm.ox.ac.uk/arms-an ... s/Archery/
Best wishes,
Jan
Daniel, You would not have managed to see anything without special arrangement as the arms and armour gallery has been closed for several years during extensive rebuilding. It was reopened in May this year.
I don't know if they have changed the displays, but one corner of the upper floor was packed full of archery equipment from throughout the world. It is worth a visit.
You can look up their description of the Egyptian bow by entering the accession number 1896.2.2 .16 into their object database (unfortunately text only).
Andrew
I don't know if they have changed the displays, but one corner of the upper floor was packed full of archery equipment from throughout the world. It is worth a visit.
You can look up their description of the Egyptian bow by entering the accession number 1896.2.2 .16 into their object database (unfortunately text only).
Andrew
Adam and all; My first E angular was backed only- a prototype. This worked so I built it with horn. This is the bow in the article. It's ash core broke in 5 places so I salvaged the horn and rebuilt it with a maple core. This was successful but did not have the desired strung shape so I made bow 4 which I should string soon.
So they were all made to the same plan, each was different and all are experimental. And the finished bows are authentically made.
I do hope to use other plans for comparison. -j-
So they were all made to the same plan, each was different and all are experimental. And the finished bows are authentically made.
I do hope to use other plans for comparison. -j-
I am very curious to see your bows when you are done, Jack.
I had a busy Sunday and now have mountain maple and silver birch. They are left to dry now and I'll work them into laths in a month or so. I am not quite sure how to do that though. I split a part of the maple and there was no twist, so I can just saw it into laths. However, the closer the cuts come to the center, the more the laths go from plain sawn to quarter sawn and I am not sure if that's good. The two outermost (from each side of the tree) are fine, but it would seem a waste to discard the rest.
I had a busy Sunday and now have mountain maple and silver birch. They are left to dry now and I'll work them into laths in a month or so. I am not quite sure how to do that though. I split a part of the maple and there was no twist, so I can just saw it into laths. However, the closer the cuts come to the center, the more the laths go from plain sawn to quarter sawn and I am not sure if that's good. The two outermost (from each side of the tree) are fine, but it would seem a waste to discard the rest.
Daniel; I believe that you are ready to proceed with the green wood. Pre steam in a steam box and apply to a form. The steaming should accelerate the drying process. Some intense heat at the grip bend would be an alternate method but require longer drying.
It would not be necessary to follow one growth ring as long as the grain is aligned long and straight.
If you care to follow the plan in the article then you can proceed. If you prefer another, then wait for McLeod and study it. He proposes 14 methods. mine is an intermediary one.
I have used only wood which was kiln dried or air dried before starting. For using green wood, refer to Karpowicz's book. I think it should stay in the form until dry in the latter case before proceeding with horn. -j-
It would not be necessary to follow one growth ring as long as the grain is aligned long and straight.
If you care to follow the plan in the article then you can proceed. If you prefer another, then wait for McLeod and study it. He proposes 14 methods. mine is an intermediary one.
I have used only wood which was kiln dried or air dried before starting. For using green wood, refer to Karpowicz's book. I think it should stay in the form until dry in the latter case before proceeding with horn. -j-
My wood storage, the planer and the bandsaw are a two hour drive away and I think it will be dried a bit by the time I'll be there again. My experience with wet wood is that it sometimes checks and always warps when cut into laths. Also working it on the bandsaw is better when it is not very wet.
I think I'll wait for the book as I'd like to get a better picture of what these bows were like and also because I don't fully understand the dimensions in your plan.
I still need to get sinew and horn, so there is no hurry. We all know what we get from making a hurry anyway.
Daniel
I think I'll wait for the book as I'd like to get a better picture of what these bows were like and also because I don't fully understand the dimensions in your plan.
I still need to get sinew and horn, so there is no hurry. We all know what we get from making a hurry anyway.
Daniel
The book is on its way, finally!
I have to ask another question regarding phragmites. Is there any distinct feature useful to tell it apart from other reeds or bamboo species?
I found a grove of plants that made a good impression, but I am not sure what it is. The blossom on the top look similar to this one: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File: ... lossom.jpg
but maybe not as pointy.
The culm doesn't tell me anything, it might as well be Tonkin bamboo. The only special thing I noticed was a blood-like liquid beneath the sheats I removed. It looked like blood, only a bit darker.
I have to ask another question regarding phragmites. Is there any distinct feature useful to tell it apart from other reeds or bamboo species?
I found a grove of plants that made a good impression, but I am not sure what it is. The blossom on the top look similar to this one: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File: ... lossom.jpg
but maybe not as pointy.
The culm doesn't tell me anything, it might as well be Tonkin bamboo. The only special thing I noticed was a blood-like liquid beneath the sheats I removed. It looked like blood, only a bit darker.
Phragmites has a thin, white bloom stalk. I took this pic in Kazakhstan, 2008
I see, thanks. Maybe it is a kind of bamboo. The culms are more than 2m high, green and don't branch. I think it will still make good arrows, but I'll keep an eye out for phragmites.
Try cutting then with your fingers.
If you managed they are not bamboo...
If you managed they are not bamboo...
I tried to remove one plant from this grove with my bare hands, but in the end I had to struggle with the dull knive I had with me (for prying arrows from trees) to cut it.
Identifying trees is not that hard, but these reeds/canes/bamboos look so similar..
Identifying trees is not that hard, but these reeds/canes/bamboos look so similar..
Jkekoni gives an appropriate test. Try to break it in hand.
Bamboo and phragmites are grasses. Also, bamboos rarely bloom and not in this manner. There is another reed, arundo donax which is the bigger brother of phragmites, has a large thick bloom spike. you do not want that.
Phragmites will branch if it does not freeze the first season.
Collect about one month after the first freeze and by spring at the latest.
Bamboo and phragmites are grasses. Also, bamboos rarely bloom and not in this manner. There is another reed, arundo donax which is the bigger brother of phragmites, has a large thick bloom spike. you do not want that.
Phragmites will branch if it does not freeze the first season.
Collect about one month after the first freeze and by spring at the latest.
Jack, I can try that later when I am back home. I searched the internet for photos and I think you got it right. What I collected from the ones there looks like this:
http://s3.amazonaws.com/lcp/myrtus/myfi ... donax2.jpg
I'll have to see about breaking it, but its probably arundo donax. Why would I not want that?
http://s3.amazonaws.com/lcp/myrtus/myfi ... donax2.jpg
I'll have to see about breaking it, but its probably arundo donax. Why would I not want that?
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Some photographs of egyptian composites I?ve seen in an exhibition in germany some years ago...
Best regards, JJ
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Some photographs of egyptian composites I?ve seen in an exhibition in germany some years ago...
Best regards, JJ
Thank you, JJ! Very interesting to see this H-cross-section of the core. I received the book and I look forward to reading it when I'll be off work on Thursday and Friday!
I broke the green reed in eight places without effort. Two breaks caused the section to be ripped apart almost the entire length between the nodes. The other 6 buckled in one place without splitting the reed.
I broke the green reed in eight places without effort. Two breaks caused the section to be ripped apart almost the entire length between the nodes. The other 6 buckled in one place without splitting the reed.
Here is a picture of the bloom. I forgot it in the car yesterday and it has lost some of its light purple or pink color. My memory must have tricked me, it doesn't look like the arundo donax I linked above
http://itp.tugraz.at/~skerm/Bilder/bloom.jpg
http://itp.tugraz.at/~skerm/Bilder/bloom.jpg
JJ,
Thanks for the pictures. I have diagrams and articles on these bows, but I have never had clear photographs.
Thanks for the pictures. I have diagrams and articles on these bows, but I have never had clear photographs.
fantastic pics JJ . Thank you.
I read McLeod's book, it's very interesting! A few questions and uncertainties remain. It seems that the core construction is not known for a number of the bows. They should really be x-rayed!
I noticed that grooves extending along the length of the bow towards the grip to guide the string are mentioned. Only one measurement is given for a bow where the groove measures 15mm in length. So there was still some remaining reflex bend with string contact in the braced shape or else this groove would be useless. I find this interesting because I was thinking about draw length and stacking of these bows. Arrow lengths can give an upper limit on draw length (except for cultures with overdraw devices), but I don't know the arrow lengths yet.
For the decoration, bands of an unspecified material were used. Could this be leather? Rawhide? Linen? Thicker bark?
Also, what tree could have supplied the dark bark mentioned?
I am most intrigues by the bows 4 and 5. 4 is the one covered with sheet gold and 5 the one with the prisoner heads for tips. Is it possible to obtain color photos somewhere?
I noticed that grooves extending along the length of the bow towards the grip to guide the string are mentioned. Only one measurement is given for a bow where the groove measures 15mm in length. So there was still some remaining reflex bend with string contact in the braced shape or else this groove would be useless. I find this interesting because I was thinking about draw length and stacking of these bows. Arrow lengths can give an upper limit on draw length (except for cultures with overdraw devices), but I don't know the arrow lengths yet.
For the decoration, bands of an unspecified material were used. Could this be leather? Rawhide? Linen? Thicker bark?
Also, what tree could have supplied the dark bark mentioned?
I am most intrigues by the bows 4 and 5. 4 is the one covered with sheet gold and 5 the one with the prisoner heads for tips. Is it possible to obtain color photos somewhere?
The companion volume on self bows archery equipment has details of the arrows. They are very long. 30 to 34 inch draws were not unusual. Having shot an reasonably accurate replica of one of these bows, I found no stacking and a very smooth draw.
Angular composite bows seem to be undervalued. They are easy to shoot, accurate and remarkably good at shooting heavy long arrows.
Angular composite bows seem to be undervalued. They are easy to shoot, accurate and remarkably good at shooting heavy long arrows.
I am really surprised. I thought that the short limbs limit the draw length, but apparently the deflex grip helps. Since you said there was no stacking, I made a rough calculation of such a bow using Bob Kooi's modell. I am still struggling with the calculation of the force-draw curve, but the shape calculation is working. To my surprise, at 32" draw, a 135cm (53") long bow shows a nice full draw shape with a very reasonable string angle. I look forward to the making and shooting!
The one I used had the portions of the limbs near the tips quite stiff. This improved its performance.