Bow in progress
Dear all,
still is not ready tillered. >70pds.
Peter
still is not ready tillered. >70pds.
Peter
That is cool! What's the lumber?
I still haven't figured out how you're supposed to tiller these things...
I still haven't figured out how you're supposed to tiller these things...
Very nice Peter. You are a craftsman.
That's great piece of art and thanks for posting it.
Good looking.
I notised that you have laminated the ear. What woods did you use?
Is the grip V-spliced or something else?
I notised that you have laminated the ear. What woods did you use?
Is the grip V-spliced or something else?
And what are the dimensions of the core at the most bending part of the limb?
Dear all,
data: 5 piece core, grip: ash, sal: hard maple, kasan/tip: white beech 5 stripes laminate (hard and light), grip to sal to kasan/tip v-spliced (see picture). Back: deer sinew, belly: waterbuffallohorn. Length ntn 123cm on belly. 78 lbs (now) at 30 inches. physical weight: 380 Gramm.
Tillering: The right sal (according to the pictures) is to strong, too kasan-eyes are to thick and the angle is to small: remove horn from right sal and both kasan-eyes.
In this condition, heat allone does not work enough to get a satisfying result.
Peter
data: 5 piece core, grip: ash, sal: hard maple, kasan/tip: white beech 5 stripes laminate (hard and light), grip to sal to kasan/tip v-spliced (see picture). Back: deer sinew, belly: waterbuffallohorn. Length ntn 123cm on belly. 78 lbs (now) at 30 inches. physical weight: 380 Gramm.
Tillering: The right sal (according to the pictures) is to strong, too kasan-eyes are to thick and the angle is to small: remove horn from right sal and both kasan-eyes.
In this condition, heat allone does not work enough to get a satisfying result.
Peter
Good job, Peter. I vish you that in the end this bow was good target shooter. And next i hope more than 100 lb :lol:
Sorry Jack,
Sal is 28 cm long, 36 mm wide and 11,5 mm thick (mid of Sal). Sinew 2 mm at mid to 5 mm on the side, wood 4,5 mm, horn 4,5 mm. Cross-section: wood is lens-like, horn is shaped concave inside with the usual longitudional grooves in horn and wood (2 mm wide, 1,6 mm deep). Too, as you can see on the splice-pictures, grooves on the back (1 mm wide), freehanded, for sinewing.
Peter
Sal is 28 cm long, 36 mm wide and 11,5 mm thick (mid of Sal). Sinew 2 mm at mid to 5 mm on the side, wood 4,5 mm, horn 4,5 mm. Cross-section: wood is lens-like, horn is shaped concave inside with the usual longitudional grooves in horn and wood (2 mm wide, 1,6 mm deep). Too, as you can see on the splice-pictures, grooves on the back (1 mm wide), freehanded, for sinewing.
Peter
Kyudohund,
How long is drying period, is it stable? I see sal/kasan angle is high in strung, it is not good for stability. Congratulations.
Cem
How long is drying period, is it stable? I see sal/kasan angle is high in strung, it is not good for stability. Congratulations.
Cem
Cem,
masters eye is incorrubtible! As i sayed, in further reply, i will correct the angle in kasan-eye. This, as you know, will take time. These are pictures from the first brace.
Drying period is 4 month. After bracing the bow to full draw (left it 12 hours), the bow relaxed, inbetween 2 hours, in a small reflex, as it shall be.
Peter
masters eye is incorrubtible! As i sayed, in further reply, i will correct the angle in kasan-eye. This, as you know, will take time. These are pictures from the first brace.
Drying period is 4 month. After bracing the bow to full draw (left it 12 hours), the bow relaxed, inbetween 2 hours, in a small reflex, as it shall be.
Peter
It looks really good. Congratulations Peter.
I remember you made a Turkish bow sometime ago that was nicely decorated.
I wonder if it will work as good as the ones that are dried for a year or longer.
I remember you made a Turkish bow sometime ago that was nicely decorated.
I wonder if it will work as good as the ones that are dried for a year or longer.
Peter - this bow looks fantastic :-) Well done :-)
Nice!
You write that the bow relaxed in a "small reflex" which it should. Will we get a photo of the bow when it has just been unstrung? I'm just curious what to expect from such a high reflex bow with a "short" curing period :)
You write that the bow relaxed in a "small reflex" which it should. Will we get a photo of the bow when it has just been unstrung? I'm just curious what to expect from such a high reflex bow with a "short" curing period :)
Does this kind of construction limit possibilities for alignment correction?Kyudohund wrote:
kasan/tip: white beech 5 stripes laminate (hard and light), grip to sal to kasan/tip v-spliced (see picture)
(Of course you can make to tip thick first and then saw it to alignment... but naturally this can be done only once.)
Usage of strong/light wood like this sounds good idea for losing wight where it count. However as far as I know all old bows have used quite heavy wood there. I assume the reason being ability for heat bends?
One more thing about the laminated ears. Have you considered usage
of heavier wood on the first and last laminate and softwood (spruce, pine) in the middle. This could make the ear event more light.
You have added quite a bit of reflex to the sal, just before kassan. I assume you did this to add bend there too. (Most of turkish bows I have seen are seriously underbending in the region.) I assume this is intenttional.
pds = lbs ?