Conical bit or tool to make glue-on wooden nocks.
This is my first post. I first want to say "Hello" to everyone. I enjoy learning about traditional archery, and I am hoping the forum members can help me with a problem.
I am trying to find a conical bit or archery tool that I can use to create the 10 degree conical bore into some custom wood nocks. By constructing my wood nocks to mate to the standard 10 degree taper, it will be easier for me to swap between custom and plastic nocks without modifying the arrows.
Has anyone else tried to make their own glue-on nocks? What tool did you use for the conical bore?
I currently have a request into the staff at Arrow-Fix to see if they can provide the special conical bit, but I haven't heard anything back yet. The tool's stock conical bit has a 5 degree taper. If I use their stock tool, then I can't switch back to the standard 10 degree plastic nocks without shortening and re-tapering my arrows.
Why do I want to make my own nocks? I would like to practice the "dagger technique" which requires the nocks to be in the Kinzhalka profile. I prefer to make wood glue-on nocks rather than self-nock my wood arrows. When a nock breaks, I can replace the nock instead of having to shorten and refletch the arrow.
Thank you for your help.
I am trying to find a conical bit or archery tool that I can use to create the 10 degree conical bore into some custom wood nocks. By constructing my wood nocks to mate to the standard 10 degree taper, it will be easier for me to swap between custom and plastic nocks without modifying the arrows.
Has anyone else tried to make their own glue-on nocks? What tool did you use for the conical bore?
I currently have a request into the staff at Arrow-Fix to see if they can provide the special conical bit, but I haven't heard anything back yet. The tool's stock conical bit has a 5 degree taper. If I use their stock tool, then I can't switch back to the standard 10 degree plastic nocks without shortening and re-tapering my arrows.
Why do I want to make my own nocks? I would like to practice the "dagger technique" which requires the nocks to be in the Kinzhalka profile. I prefer to make wood glue-on nocks rather than self-nock my wood arrows. When a nock breaks, I can replace the nock instead of having to shorten and refletch the arrow.
Thank you for your help.
Welcome; Maybe you need to post a picture. However, you can make your own nocks from hardwood twigs and they will be stronger because of the grain in a stick as opposed to lumber. They will not break and if there is ever a problem, they can be drilled out. I made my tool from a ground down 3/8 inch spade bit. Buy the one without the unnecessary hole in the body of the blade.
Thank you for the tip on the spade bit. Looks like the bench grinder will save the day again.
Here is a link to a page with pictures of the Kinzhalka nocks. I think you can see why I am worried about breaking the nocks.
http://walker30.narod.ru/abakan.htm
The text of the page is in Russian. I use Google to translate the page. Copy the URL, go to google.com and paste it into the search field. It will come back as the first result...but to the right of the link will be a "Translate" button. There may be an easier to way to translate it, but this works for me.
Here is a link to a page with pictures of the Kinzhalka nocks. I think you can see why I am worried about breaking the nocks.
http://walker30.narod.ru/abakan.htm
The text of the page is in Russian. I use Google to translate the page. Copy the URL, go to google.com and paste it into the search field. It will come back as the first result...but to the right of the link will be a "Translate" button. There may be an easier to way to translate it, but this works for me.
Alex; I have seen those before; maybe in an archery magazine or so. Have never seen this in a museum. How old is this idea? Where from?
Jack,
I don't know the history behind these nocks. I came across the method on YouTube. I believe that the poster of the method is an archery instructor. I was under the impression that he developed this nock profile. I asked him about his arrow construction, and he informed me that the nock was the only aspect that was critical. Thus, this is the reason why I want to make my own glue-on Kinzhalka nocks.
The "Wow"!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1o9RGnujlkI
The "How" part 1. It's in Russian, but he does a really good job of demonstrating.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6B6vAXQtx0
The "How" part 2.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_W01h1SVWQ
The link to the the page about the nock profile is given in the information section of the part 2 video.
I don't know the history behind these nocks. I came across the method on YouTube. I believe that the poster of the method is an archery instructor. I was under the impression that he developed this nock profile. I asked him about his arrow construction, and he informed me that the nock was the only aspect that was critical. Thus, this is the reason why I want to make my own glue-on Kinzhalka nocks.
The "Wow"!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1o9RGnujlkI
The "How" part 1. It's in Russian, but he does a really good job of demonstrating.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6B6vAXQtx0
The "How" part 2.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_W01h1SVWQ
The link to the the page about the nock profile is given in the information section of the part 2 video.
I like it, I like it!
Alex; I just re read your initial post and need to make one observation. If you add a wood nock, the socket should be in the arrow shaft and not in the nock piece. If in the nock piece, then a feather edge of wood faces forward as it passes your hand inviting disaster. The other way around, is much safer to you, the archer.
When making a tapered socket in solid material, it is much easier to first drill a tiny pilot hole to give the flaring tool a path to follow. The shaft would usually be bamboo which would have its own hollow center.
When making a tapered socket in solid material, it is much easier to first drill a tiny pilot hole to give the flaring tool a path to follow. The shaft would usually be bamboo which would have its own hollow center.
Thanks for the word of caution. My desire to be able to switch back and forth between glue-on commercial plastic nocks and my custom wood nocks may be a catch-22.