Kasan / tip notch
Greetings to all - my first post here. I've built several self bows and one composite, and have learned much from reading about everyone's experiences. Thank you all. Now, getting set to bend two pairs of limbs for a flight and a puta bow. Using green (well, more like air dried at this point) sugar maple, and have soaked them for nearly two weeks. The kasan/tip bend radius still looks frighteningly small to me, and am considering notching the bend according to Adam's incredible book. Does anyone have any specific advice here? Two small kerfs with a rat tail file 1" apart? A 2" long narrowed area? Six 1/16" deep saw kerfs? In the past, when I've had a local "failure" in a bend, I've ended up with a terrible kink and the piece was lost. Thanks in advance!
Try thinning the lathes at the area undergoing maximum bend. I've had sucess with upto 15mm thick. You can also use the steel strap method of bending recurves in self bows. Also boil them in water not just steam.
Nowadays it;s so easy to make 2 mm thick lams im tempted to try a core made that way - lot of glue though!
Nowadays it;s so easy to make 2 mm thick lams im tempted to try a core made that way - lot of glue though!
I was just wondering can one correct side bends of a bow that has been made from several 2mm lams?
If i have understood asian composites will always need correction at some point.
If i have understood asian composites will always need correction at some point.
Thx mikekeswick, I'll probably give that a try. The laths are 17mm now. I'm also a big proponent of compression straps. I'll post a pic of the forms and strapping jigs if all goes well!
Well the horn and sinew are glued? So more glue lines shouldn't be a problem!?! Not sure if I would want to try!!!jkekoni wrote:
I was just wondering can one correct side bends of a bow that has been made from several 2mm lams?
If i have understood asian composites will always need correction at some point.