how do string

Look at Czaba Grozer?s page (click "usage"): http://www.grozerarchery.com/index_m.htm

jw

maybe needless to say but you can avoid bending the bow too much by not pulling the string over all of the siyah lenght, coming from the concave side of the bow but instead coming from the convex side: therefore put the siyah into the leather leashes of the string before bending the bow.. got it?

by the way, I dont think this type of bow (natural materials?) will delaminate suddenly, it might feel more like giving way like wax.. see topic "hornbow crash" - or does somebody have another opinion ?

8)

johnny.winter wrote:

Look at Czaba Grozer?s page (click "usage"): http://www.grozerarchery.com/index_m.htm

jw

Please do not do it like that. (Even Csaba Grozer agrees). Please do it like this:

Uli wrote:

maybe needless to say but you can avoid bending the bow too much by not pulling the string over all of the siyah lenght, coming from the concave side of the bow but instead coming from the convex side: therefore put the siyah into the leather leashes of the string before bending the bow.. got it?

I think so. Do you mean to put the string over the limb, and slide it into the siyah, rather than pulling over the siyah while stringing?

by the way, I dont think this type of bow (natural materials?) will delaminate suddenly, it might feel more like giving way like wax.. see topic "hornbow crash" - or does somebody have another opinion ?

8)

I think it's just a natural/synthetic composite, like low-end modern bows and "traditional" flatbows.

I do want a natural horn bow, but they're all expensive and apparently are only made in Hungary, since every commercial bowyer seems to live there. I probably won't have the money until after college.

I also want to see if there are any local groups who are into these types of bows, and happen to shoot some hornbows I can find from the larger dealers, so I can give a few different types a try and see what I like, then order the same type.

Please do not do it like that. (Even Csaba Grozer agrees). Please do it like this:

So do you guys pay people to follow you everywhere and help you string your bows?

Yep thats what I meant...And dont tell me you dont have your bow stringing buddy at your side man, everybody has, its just like playing golf.

PS: you can get a "natural" hornbow from Mongolia for 250 Euro I think.

What do ATARN members think of selling those bows in Europe and Texas ?
Cause I probably could organize that, but I am aware of ethical remarks..

If you want to see the stringing method in life, go to Alam ed Din new post at GENERAL DISCUSSION. At the middle of the video you find the mongolian bower stringing his bow with two knees on the limb. However, they put the string loop round the limb instead of running free.

In fact that was a good movie that everyone (especially horseback archers) should watch.

Fox

I might be able to sell some here, though it'd be dicey at first while I look for customers.

I have not yet managed to successfully use this knee/two-knee stringing on any but my lightest bow. Is there a trick?

[quote="I have not yet managed to successfully use this knee/two-knee stringing on any but my lightest bow. Is there a trick?[/quote]

You need to know how to squat. If you don't, then lean back against something or sit on a stool.

Make sure that your helper understands what to de before you start the maneuver.

Place both knees against the grip. Make sure your hands are as close to the siyahs as you can stretch. Don't forget that you must grip the bow limb with your palms facing upwards. String one end first, and hold the loose string against the other string bridge with your thumb. Pull back with the full weight of your back.

This action is the first thing I teach students in my archery classes. They usually take a few tries to get over their fear of the bow and the unfamiliarity of the action. Although it is not always convenient to have to string a bow with a helper, it's the 'safest' way. 'Step-though- stringing carries a high risk of twisting to the bow-limbs. With a very recurved bow, it may not be possible at all.

S.

Stephen Selby wrote:

'Step-though- stringing carries a high risk of twisting to the bow-limbs. With a very recurved bow, it may not be possible at all.

S.

Yeah, I noticed that I can't string the 78@28" (Grozer TRH Laminalt) via the step-through method without twist unless I slide off my boot. Otherwise I lack the tactile sense to pull it off.

MUCH obliged.

Most of the shorter heavily recurved bows can be strung using the cross legged position in Thomas Duvernay's video on Korean bow making.

However, it requires flexibility and strength to do and I do not recommend it to people for use on valuable bows until they are experienced with it. I think the safest way to practise it is to use the method to unstring bows first until you are used to the stresses and feel comfortable with the actions.

It is not suitable for long composites because of the lack of leverage.

Stephen's assisted method is the best. Dr Grayson uses it with Turkish and Korean bows. I use it on my composite bow too, though I have used the cross-legged method, but I thought my eyes were going to pop out of my head. I am working on my flexibility.

The bow came yesterday. I was surprised at how fast it shot, and how quietly! Someday I'd love to take it out to the middle of nowhere to see just how far I can get an arrow with it.

I originally picked up an old work glove to protect my knuckle, but took it off because I couldn't get a good grip on the bow and the size was causing my hand to cramp. Is there any way I can create callouses on the knuckle without having to cut it open with a fletching? Or would a proper shooting glove be a worthwhile investment?

Is there any way I can create callouses on the knuckle without having to cut it open with a fletching? Or would a proper shooting glove be a worthwhile investment?

I'm not sure which shooting style you are using. Supposing you are using a thumb draw and the arrow passes to the outside of the grip over your thumb knuckle: then you should depress your wrist and bring your thumb and forefinger together around the grip. That forms a little 'V' over which the arrow passes.

Another problem can occur if the thumb and index finger are tensed. I think this applies to both styles of shooting.

I was shooting with a longbow archer on Sunday and he was using a glove on his bow hand. Even after he adjusted the nocking point higher, he still had some problems. I was worried that the lower limb was to stiff and pulling the nock of the arrow down during release.

When I shoot with a thumbring, I have no nocking point on the string and I try to use nocks that do not grip the string to tightly. I can normally shoot even with the feather parallel to the string pointing downwards. The only marks I have on the bow hand thumb are from dirt on the arrow shaft. If I tense my thumb or nock low, I can scratch the skin.

I'm using a Mediterranean release. It seems that a feather will inevitably pass over my finger, which is what's doing all the cutting.

The Lobotomizer wrote:

I'm using a Mediterranean release. It seems that a feather will inevitably pass over my finger, which is what's doing all the cutting.

While it might be a technique problem, it might also be a fletching problem. Check that the leading quill of the fletching is not raised. Wrap light sanding paper on a dowel or pencil and sand the leading quill very flat, then put a drop of lacquer glue over it and let it set.

Are you using turkey fletching? That's quite hard (though I use it.) Pheasant wing feather is soft and does the job.

But at the end of the day, I also get cuts on the thumb knuckle if I mis-fire. Don't have many nerves left there. :?

I'm thinking of ordering a Hun. Both Kassai and Grozer offer models, how do they compare with each other?

I'm leaning towards Kassai's bows, as he seems to have a distributor here in America, which would make cusotmer service infinitely simpler, should anything go wrong. I'm also a little skeptical about the square grip I see on Grozer's models. I want a smooth, comfortable bow above all else.

The square grip is 'authentic' in early hornbows from East Europe.

Kassai and Grozer both make fine bows. I find the grip of Kassai's bows too narrow for my hand. If you can, try to get your hands on one of these bows and shoot with it before you buy.

IMHO

The usual method of building up the leading edge of the fletch with glue is not necessarilly the best.

I bind the leading edge of all my fleches and then varnish the binding with two coats of varnish. It has significant advantages.

If I am doing a lot of shooting I will also place a layer of tape over my hand.

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Regards
Grahame

I got a chance to shoot one of Kassai's Huns today. I was impressed, but the draw weight was too light, only #31, and I had to improvise with #50 arrows. They dropped liked stones. I'd like to try it in a heavier draw weight before I make my final decision.

Stephen - I didn't have any problems with the handle, but I also have small, dainty hands.