What to do with this stuff...
Hello, I`m new in this forum, but not new in bowmaking. I have experiences for about 7 years with selfbows, sinewbacked bows, long- and shortbows. I have made workshop with Redhawk.
Now my question: I have a piece of Osage about 39" long, 1 1/4 wide at the handle, 3/4" wide at the tips. I decided to make another Indian sinewbacked flat, but now, after I bougt some waterbuffalo hornstrips, my idea is to make a horncomposite. I hope that some experienced hornbowmakers will ,give me a good start and some idea.
My idea is to splice in the siyahs, after I tillered the wooden core to 10" of complete draw, roughing the belly and the horn, glue it, after drying the sinew will be glued on the back, retiller and then- finish!?
What is your idea? Any designs, measurings for my project, photos of a short composite with dimensions, how many layers of sinew should be done and which drawweight may be possible? These are my most interested questions. Thanks for your effooerts!
Uwe
Now my question: I have a piece of Osage about 39" long, 1 1/4 wide at the handle, 3/4" wide at the tips. I decided to make another Indian sinewbacked flat, but now, after I bougt some waterbuffalo hornstrips, my idea is to make a horncomposite. I hope that some experienced hornbowmakers will ,give me a good start and some idea.
My idea is to splice in the siyahs, after I tillered the wooden core to 10" of complete draw, roughing the belly and the horn, glue it, after drying the sinew will be glued on the back, retiller and then- finish!?
What is your idea? Any designs, measurings for my project, photos of a short composite with dimensions, how many layers of sinew should be done and which drawweight may be possible? These are my most interested questions. Thanks for your effooerts!
Uwe
I think that the best thing is to page through the picture archive at http://198.66.52.119/photo/index.php. There you can see all the bows that ATARN Members have been making over the years. There are also some pointers on technique under the FAQ section of ATARN.
hi Eppo,if you have a stringwalker use it.You?ll have a constant pressure all along the glue-line.If you use clamps you?ll have more or less pressure along the glue-line,this could provocate a breakage.
Jack,I always try to avoid butt joints.You?re right,it works,but I feel more secure with a piece of horn covering a whole limb of a bow.And it looks more beautiful and stable.
Anyway if I would have no other choice I would add my horns one after another.
Jack,I always try to avoid butt joints.You?re right,it works,but I feel more secure with a piece of horn covering a whole limb of a bow.And it looks more beautiful and stable.
Anyway if I would have no other choice I would add my horns one after another.
Hi Redhawk
The bow is now under wraps you might say.Used the stringwalker and what a great way to sqeeze the horn and wood together.Next time I'll wear a cotton glove on the walker hand.Wouldn't want to wrap two bows in a row.It's looking good. How long in your opinion should I leave it wrapped?How warm do you keep it?I've got a hot box.
As far as covering the bow in one piece of horn,I tend to agree.
Sinewing is next
The bow is now under wraps you might say.Used the stringwalker and what a great way to sqeeze the horn and wood together.Next time I'll wear a cotton glove on the walker hand.Wouldn't want to wrap two bows in a row.It's looking good. How long in your opinion should I leave it wrapped?How warm do you keep it?I've got a hot box.
As far as covering the bow in one piece of horn,I tend to agree.
Sinewing is next
Sorry, already some replies on my question. Thanks Stephen.
But what do the other answers have straight to do with my question?
I have been working on the Piece of wood now. My dimensions are now 1" above handle, 5/8" at the tips.
The hornplates are around 13/4" wide. I think, I`ll waiste a lot of horn on this small wooden core. What I?ve read here and seen is, that the wooden cores are running in the same width up to the siyahs. Would`t it be better to take ahorn for example for my project?
But what do the other answers have straight to do with my question?
I have been working on the Piece of wood now. My dimensions are now 1" above handle, 5/8" at the tips.
The hornplates are around 13/4" wide. I think, I`ll waiste a lot of horn on this small wooden core. What I?ve read here and seen is, that the wooden cores are running in the same width up to the siyahs. Would`t it be better to take ahorn for example for my project?
Hello Nordbogen
As I understand , your bow is rather short. You will of course have a lot of waste. The waste on halfhorns is even greater. When you mention ahorn do you mean maple? I f you have plenty of that then why not look at that to make a somewhat longer bow more suitable for your horn as far as length goes?
As I understand , your bow is rather short. You will of course have a lot of waste. The waste on halfhorns is even greater. When you mention ahorn do you mean maple? I f you have plenty of that then why not look at that to make a somewhat longer bow more suitable for your horn as far as length goes?
Hi Eppo!
Sure, I mean maple! It will be the better way to search for a wood suitable to my hornplates. On the other way, the smaller the width of the arms, the greater is the problem of twisting them.
I would like to make a bow of around 55" long and around 45 pounds of weight. What would be a good desingn/ pattern for it?
I have the Primitive archer mags nearly complete, but there are not the designs I prefer. Otherwise, which would be an effective design and is not so difficult in tillering?
Any ideas?
Sure, I mean maple! It will be the better way to search for a wood suitable to my hornplates. On the other way, the smaller the width of the arms, the greater is the problem of twisting them.
I would like to make a bow of around 55" long and around 45 pounds of weight. What would be a good desingn/ pattern for it?
I have the Primitive archer mags nearly complete, but there are not the designs I prefer. Otherwise, which would be an effective design and is not so difficult in tillering?
Any ideas?
Hi Nordbogen
Had a feeling that it meant Maple.Remember my Dad telling me when I was a kid. Actually at the moment I'm in the hornbow building process too so perhaps I can be of a little help to you.Mine is appr. 1 1/8 IN. wide the wood (Ash) is 5/16 in. thick at the moment but will be just over 1/8 in. thick in the bending area. The horn is 1/8 in. thick and I hope to put maybe 3/16 in. of sinew on the bending area.What the poundage will be,I have no idea.Find out later. Since you are looking for a lighter weight,I would look for the same width and thinner horn 2.5 mm? and thinner sinew.Your bow will be longer , that helps in lightening it. Oops, forgot to ask what style of bow you are planning.Mine is Turkish style. maybe we can all chip in with some info so you can settle on what is best.
Had a feeling that it meant Maple.Remember my Dad telling me when I was a kid. Actually at the moment I'm in the hornbow building process too so perhaps I can be of a little help to you.Mine is appr. 1 1/8 IN. wide the wood (Ash) is 5/16 in. thick at the moment but will be just over 1/8 in. thick in the bending area. The horn is 1/8 in. thick and I hope to put maybe 3/16 in. of sinew on the bending area.What the poundage will be,I have no idea.Find out later. Since you are looking for a lighter weight,I would look for the same width and thinner horn 2.5 mm? and thinner sinew.Your bow will be longer , that helps in lightening it. Oops, forgot to ask what style of bow you are planning.Mine is Turkish style. maybe we can all chip in with some info so you can settle on what is best.
Hi Eppo,
Yes, Ahorn- maple! My friend was here, we had some beer and after he`d left my brain didn`t work as quick as it should. The translation german- english didn`t work as I would. That`s the reason. I am not very sure about the style of bow, but a turkish bow would fit into my plan.
I have the thinner hornplates, which are a little more than 1/8" thick. When I have planed it, it will have the thickness of 1/8".
Does the wooden core and the horn have to taper for the siyahs?
But there is there is even the difference between flight- and warbow. Don`t the tips touch at flightbows? Teach me when I`m wrong. Do two layers of sinew resist the reflex or better make 3 or more?
I won`t start, before I`m sure what to do.
Did you work the handle and the limbs out of a thicker piece of wood or did you glue it on the "board"?
Question over questions, but this is why we meet here...
Yes, Ahorn- maple! My friend was here, we had some beer and after he`d left my brain didn`t work as quick as it should. The translation german- english didn`t work as I would. That`s the reason. I am not very sure about the style of bow, but a turkish bow would fit into my plan.
I have the thinner hornplates, which are a little more than 1/8" thick. When I have planed it, it will have the thickness of 1/8".
Does the wooden core and the horn have to taper for the siyahs?
But there is there is even the difference between flight- and warbow. Don`t the tips touch at flightbows? Teach me when I`m wrong. Do two layers of sinew resist the reflex or better make 3 or more?
I won`t start, before I`m sure what to do.
Did you work the handle and the limbs out of a thicker piece of wood or did you glue it on the "board"?
Question over questions, but this is why we meet here...
Good day Nordbogen
Wasn't too clear headed myself last night,tired from traveling at night.
Great , you've got a clear idea about Turkish bows. 1/8" horn is good.My wood core is made in 5 pieces ,the handle is all one piece.Just sawed the profile on the bandsaw.Total length of the piece 14" . The v taprs at each end are 4" long.Then the bending arm pieces are about 18".Then we get the siyah and tip combination.Imade them in one piece .The arms , about 6" in from the tip end need a radius steambent in ,about an 8" rad so you get about a45 deg. angle.At least I made my form that so you will en up at a lesser angle , no problem. The siyah and tip comb. are bent at 45deg. too.Made them out of a piece of Ash 1 1/4" x3/4" x 15".The extra length helps in bending. The siyah end of that piece needs to end up about 6" long,the tips about 4 or 5"
Take a look at this and see what you get out of it,there is a lot more.Leave the arm wood thicker at first because some crushing will take place with the horn binding.
Wasn't too clear headed myself last night,tired from traveling at night.
Great , you've got a clear idea about Turkish bows. 1/8" horn is good.My wood core is made in 5 pieces ,the handle is all one piece.Just sawed the profile on the bandsaw.Total length of the piece 14" . The v taprs at each end are 4" long.Then the bending arm pieces are about 18".Then we get the siyah and tip combination.Imade them in one piece .The arms , about 6" in from the tip end need a radius steambent in ,about an 8" rad so you get about a45 deg. angle.At least I made my form that so you will en up at a lesser angle , no problem. The siyah and tip comb. are bent at 45deg. too.Made them out of a piece of Ash 1 1/4" x3/4" x 15".The extra length helps in bending. The siyah end of that piece needs to end up about 6" long,the tips about 4 or 5"
Take a look at this and see what you get out of it,there is a lot more.Leave the arm wood thicker at first because some crushing will take place with the horn binding.
Good evening Eppo,
What are the 5 parts of the core? Handle, 2 Siyahs, limbs in 1 piece and 5?
These parts are, when I`ve got it correct spliced and glued together?
Do you have any pictures of it?
I have now found the article in PA Volume1, Issue 2, where the making of a turkish hornbow is written down with a few pictures. There should be some more, because these bows are very complex to make and its more than pity if there are happening any mistakes.
So come on everyone who has done such a bow and bring in your knowledge and experiences!
Is it important to make a tool as the Turkish did to make parallel grooves in wood and horn, which will fit exact each other? Or is it okay to scratch in horn and wood to make a better "gluefoundament?
What are the 5 parts of the core? Handle, 2 Siyahs, limbs in 1 piece and 5?
These parts are, when I`ve got it correct spliced and glued together?
Do you have any pictures of it?
I have now found the article in PA Volume1, Issue 2, where the making of a turkish hornbow is written down with a few pictures. There should be some more, because these bows are very complex to make and its more than pity if there are happening any mistakes.
So come on everyone who has done such a bow and bring in your knowledge and experiences!
Is it important to make a tool as the Turkish did to make parallel grooves in wood and horn, which will fit exact each other? Or is it okay to scratch in horn and wood to make a better "gluefoundament?