How To apply sinew backing?
Has anyone written up a detailed how to on applying sinew for a composite? Something that covers separating the sinew strands, glue consistency, and the actual application of the sinew?
If so, could someone point me towards it? If not, does anyone feel up to the task of writing one now?
Thanks,
Evan
If so, could someone point me towards it? If not, does anyone feel up to the task of writing one now?
Thanks,
Evan
The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Volume One, pp 213-232.
This has a good description of the whole sinewing process. You can buy it on the Web from several sources.
This has a good description of the whole sinewing process. You can buy it on the Web from several sources.
Thanks, I will look at that.
Evan
Evan
I'm interested in the description of sinew backing contained in the Traditional Bowyers Bible compared with the method used by the Korean bowyer in this video....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3cjk3-A ... ed&search=
The sinew backing in the video appears to be applied in one piece that has been formed on wooden boards, as opposed to the staggered bunches applied seperately.
Which method is most reliable? Does anyone know how long the prepared sinew backing is left to dry on the board before it is glued to the back?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3cjk3-A ... ed&search=
The sinew backing in the video appears to be applied in one piece that has been formed on wooden boards, as opposed to the staggered bunches applied seperately.
Which method is most reliable? Does anyone know how long the prepared sinew backing is left to dry on the board before it is glued to the back?
I would say this, put the sinew as you like to do. How you do is only a matter of personal way of making things.
What matters is to know what the sinew does. I put on one by one, never in bundles. Well soaked sinew and hot glue.
What matters is to know what the sinew does. I put on one by one, never in bundles. Well soaked sinew and hot glue.
The old Chinese bowyer used to say that the main enemies were (1) grease and (2) air bubbles.
You want to take care not to introduce grease onto the surfaces or materials and to ensure that your sinew includes no fat.
As to bubbles, you must have the core (or previous sinew layer) sufficiently warm to ensure that any trapped bubbles contract on cooling. You must keep in mind that in the course of making and maintaining a bow, you will heat/cool it several times, so any trapped air would cause a lot of damage when it expands/contracts.
You want to take care not to introduce grease onto the surfaces or materials and to ensure that your sinew includes no fat.
As to bubbles, you must have the core (or previous sinew layer) sufficiently warm to ensure that any trapped bubbles contract on cooling. You must keep in mind that in the course of making and maintaining a bow, you will heat/cool it several times, so any trapped air would cause a lot of damage when it expands/contracts.
Stephen,
The surfaces must be kept clean, yes. I've had the finish of a carpentry project spoilt by a fingerprint which meant a lot of work re-preparing the piece. I tend to wear latex gloves for final preparation now.
I was just curious to find whether anyone had tried both methods. Each bundle being applied as described in TBB would seem more efficient, each bundle being stretched into place. Combing each bundle out into a limb pattern and applying the whole thing in one go is far quicker but, in principle, seems weaker.
Redhorse,
Nothing is set in stone, I agree. If it works then it can't be wrong.
The surfaces must be kept clean, yes. I've had the finish of a carpentry project spoilt by a fingerprint which meant a lot of work re-preparing the piece. I tend to wear latex gloves for final preparation now.
I was just curious to find whether anyone had tried both methods. Each bundle being applied as described in TBB would seem more efficient, each bundle being stretched into place. Combing each bundle out into a limb pattern and applying the whole thing in one go is far quicker but, in principle, seems weaker.
Redhorse,
Nothing is set in stone, I agree. If it works then it can't be wrong.
The bundles of sinew, pre-made on a board in the Korean method were gelled, not dry. The gelled glue kept the sinew together, while the bundle was still soft enough to comform to the shape of limbs. The method works well for Korean bows, because the back of bow has no siyah ridge, as in the Turkish bow. Such gelled bundle would be difficult to form over the ridge and the tip base.
The TBB method with many small bundles tends to introduce too much glue into the layer and is a waste of time. Full thickness/width bundles, well overlapped, are best in my opinion. BTW, rubber or plastic gloves may have traces of talcum powder and plasticizers, which can potentially contaminate the core. I use washed cotton gloves.
Adam
The TBB method with many small bundles tends to introduce too much glue into the layer and is a waste of time. Full thickness/width bundles, well overlapped, are best in my opinion. BTW, rubber or plastic gloves may have traces of talcum powder and plasticizers, which can potentially contaminate the core. I use washed cotton gloves.
Adam
Adam wrote:
Full thickness/width bundles, well overlapped, are best in my opinion.
Before putting on any sinews on a bow, I groove the entire core and then I coate it with thin hide/fish-glue.
I fully agree with Adam: I covered all my bows with layers/bundles, which were shorter than the Korean ones, i.e., between 10cm and 30cm long. It is simply not possible to do it all at once, without getting a mess.
Generally I start with the two sides of the grip with small, wide bundles of about 10cm to 13 cm, followed by two long and wide ones of 30 cm to cover the top of the grip and the entire part of the two sal sections. Further I continue with two long bundles for the Kasan part (left and rigth) and a thin one for the edge on the top of the kasans. Finally I finish/cover the beginning/foot of the ears.
I am also interested how other ATARNOS do their sinew job.
Full thickness/width bundles, well overlapped, are best in my opinion.
Before putting on any sinews on a bow, I groove the entire core and then I coate it with thin hide/fish-glue.
I fully agree with Adam: I covered all my bows with layers/bundles, which were shorter than the Korean ones, i.e., between 10cm and 30cm long. It is simply not possible to do it all at once, without getting a mess.
Generally I start with the two sides of the grip with small, wide bundles of about 10cm to 13 cm, followed by two long and wide ones of 30 cm to cover the top of the grip and the entire part of the two sal sections. Further I continue with two long bundles for the Kasan part (left and rigth) and a thin one for the edge on the top of the kasans. Finally I finish/cover the beginning/foot of the ears.
I am also interested how other ATARNOS do their sinew job.
Adam,
Thanks for the tip about cotton gloves. I use non powdered latex gloves while finishing work but had not considered other forms of contamination; I'll be getting some cotton ones for sure.
I assumed the prepared limb section was not completely dry but I could envisage the sinew overlaps moving (or even pulling apart) while transferring it to the limb, unless the 'gel' was just right. Maybe the bond is stronger than this.
Reto,
I noticed in your Turkish Replica thread that you have sinew/glue formed on a board. It makes sense, and the Turkish design lends itself, to do the job section by section. How long roughly do you leave them to gel?
I think I will be more inclined to try this method.
Thanks for the tip about cotton gloves. I use non powdered latex gloves while finishing work but had not considered other forms of contamination; I'll be getting some cotton ones for sure.
I assumed the prepared limb section was not completely dry but I could envisage the sinew overlaps moving (or even pulling apart) while transferring it to the limb, unless the 'gel' was just right. Maybe the bond is stronger than this.
Reto,
I noticed in your Turkish Replica thread that you have sinew/glue formed on a board. It makes sense, and the Turkish design lends itself, to do the job section by section. How long roughly do you leave them to gel?
I think I will be more inclined to try this method.