Silk Road Odyssey
Dear Friends; I have just returned from an 18 day journey to Central Asia in the heart of the Silk Road. What will follow are some of my observations and discoveries.
Today I fly into Almaty, Kazakhstan, or Almata as the locals call it. I am met by an old friend who works in the area who has traveled extensively in Central Asia. He speaks Russian well, which is a pre requisite for meeting people and accurately interpreting situations in the "stans". I am here to look at history and of course, discover archery finds in their contexts.
From the air Almaty is a somewhat shabby city; on the ground, the patched remains of the old former Solviet Union. Locals say that cement was spirited away from construction sites and replaced with extra gravel and sand, which explains how the concrete superstructures lose their stone and tile veneers.
Almaty means Father apple or somesuch depending on who one asks. It would appear that the oldest stands of apple are from the mountains above the city. The city's shield used to contain an apple, now replaced with the snow leopard and various Sakian gold devices from the Issik golden warrior find.
Looming over the city are the snow capped Alatau mountains. The air is cool and dry, April being one of the best months to travel here. Good ice skating and skiing are to be had a short distance above the city. Temperatures in the summer climb to 120 F and fall to -20 0r -30 F in the winter over much of Central Asia especially out on the plains so timing is important.
The major city streets are very wide, lined with ancient whitewashed elms and poplars. Flat Cedar (juniper), fruiting Mulberry, Wheeping Willow, tall Birches, possibly Hawthorne and Tulip tree, Blue spruce, pines, and shaggy Fir trees adorn the garden of the National Historic Museum. Apple, apricot and cherry trees bloom throughout the city and up the mountain side outside the city.
In the basement of the museum is the archaeological collection. First I am directed to the "Gold Room" accompanied by my own guard. Four dazzling grave discoveries yeilded pounds of world class gold ornaments in animal styles and gold granulation which seem far too delicately made for their age. I am watched to prevent any photography but one can find these pieces published elsewhere. We are in a land where it can hardly be asserted that Greeks taught the nomads goldwork. Besides, some Scythian-Sakian gold work precedes that of the Greeks.
In the main displays Neolithic arrowheads are tear drop and triangular 7/8 to 1 3/4 " long of various flints etc.
Saka bronze bi-lobed arrowpoints of the earliest type are identical to stone neolithic pionts in size and shape except socketed, less than an inch long, later becoming larger and sometimes with a spur, 7-5c BC. Three lobed points of bronze then accompany bi-lobes with the barbs extending well past the socket, 7-5 c BC, tri-lobed with a long wedge tang, 7-6c, a bone point identical to a bronze point from 5-3c, and an obelisk shaped bronze with extending socket of the same age. A trilobed arrowhead, presumably of the wedge type tang was recovered mounted to a fragmented arrow shaft of 1/4 " diameter with a sinew lashing which would be unnecessary for a socketed point.
The second floor armory room is closed for remodeling for a May 5 reopening. I'll be gone by that time so I offer a special fee which the matron custodian rejects out of hand. But I already hold in hand photos from several years ago when photography was allowed and will share observations about those items in my next update. Jack
Today I fly into Almaty, Kazakhstan, or Almata as the locals call it. I am met by an old friend who works in the area who has traveled extensively in Central Asia. He speaks Russian well, which is a pre requisite for meeting people and accurately interpreting situations in the "stans". I am here to look at history and of course, discover archery finds in their contexts.
From the air Almaty is a somewhat shabby city; on the ground, the patched remains of the old former Solviet Union. Locals say that cement was spirited away from construction sites and replaced with extra gravel and sand, which explains how the concrete superstructures lose their stone and tile veneers.
Almaty means Father apple or somesuch depending on who one asks. It would appear that the oldest stands of apple are from the mountains above the city. The city's shield used to contain an apple, now replaced with the snow leopard and various Sakian gold devices from the Issik golden warrior find.
Looming over the city are the snow capped Alatau mountains. The air is cool and dry, April being one of the best months to travel here. Good ice skating and skiing are to be had a short distance above the city. Temperatures in the summer climb to 120 F and fall to -20 0r -30 F in the winter over much of Central Asia especially out on the plains so timing is important.
The major city streets are very wide, lined with ancient whitewashed elms and poplars. Flat Cedar (juniper), fruiting Mulberry, Wheeping Willow, tall Birches, possibly Hawthorne and Tulip tree, Blue spruce, pines, and shaggy Fir trees adorn the garden of the National Historic Museum. Apple, apricot and cherry trees bloom throughout the city and up the mountain side outside the city.
In the basement of the museum is the archaeological collection. First I am directed to the "Gold Room" accompanied by my own guard. Four dazzling grave discoveries yeilded pounds of world class gold ornaments in animal styles and gold granulation which seem far too delicately made for their age. I am watched to prevent any photography but one can find these pieces published elsewhere. We are in a land where it can hardly be asserted that Greeks taught the nomads goldwork. Besides, some Scythian-Sakian gold work precedes that of the Greeks.
In the main displays Neolithic arrowheads are tear drop and triangular 7/8 to 1 3/4 " long of various flints etc.
Saka bronze bi-lobed arrowpoints of the earliest type are identical to stone neolithic pionts in size and shape except socketed, less than an inch long, later becoming larger and sometimes with a spur, 7-5c BC. Three lobed points of bronze then accompany bi-lobes with the barbs extending well past the socket, 7-5 c BC, tri-lobed with a long wedge tang, 7-6c, a bone point identical to a bronze point from 5-3c, and an obelisk shaped bronze with extending socket of the same age. A trilobed arrowhead, presumably of the wedge type tang was recovered mounted to a fragmented arrow shaft of 1/4 " diameter with a sinew lashing which would be unnecessary for a socketed point.
The second floor armory room is closed for remodeling for a May 5 reopening. I'll be gone by that time so I offer a special fee which the matron custodian rejects out of hand. But I already hold in hand photos from several years ago when photography was allowed and will share observations about those items in my next update. Jack
That is were the horse was domesticated and the first horse archer aper. I feel deep in my blood how that area calls. Born in Finland with blood from the east it's not so far.
In time I think it can be possible for man to trace his roots with DNA.
In time I think it can be possible for man to trace his roots with DNA.
Red Horse and all; Central Asia has been speaking to me for some time so I decided to get closer and listen.
I forgot to mention that Iron points of the first centuries are triangular, compact to broadhead, with a round or rarely square tang. These are sometimes found in rusted masses showing their inclusion into burials presumably in quivers full of identical arrows, 200BC-200AD. Three blade continue in various elongated shapes, now with ring collars above the tang, also chizle shaped, leaf shaped, as well as compact bone diamond cross-sectioned points with tapered tangs. An armor scale 1"x3 1/4" with 12 mounting holes is displayed. 6-8c AD.
Flat spatulate, tree leaf, diamond shaped and diamond point spatulate blades from 1 5/8 to 2 3/4" long with ring collars were found from the 13-14 c. We should have a discussion on this sometimes but supports my assumption that these arrows were used at close range, were part of an arrow tool kit for specific targets and thus needed to be carried point up for field identification. A threesome of almost completely straight bone siyah side plates with bulbous ends awaits translation from Russian.
The earlier photos from upstairs show a large Manchurian style bow with diagonal birchbark and black nock inserts, now almost straightened out from use. A less massive painted Manchurian bow retains classic C shape but has a broken nock. It is always interesting to try to determine what happened to the bow. A very long quiver which will probably prove to be Kazakh sports a large bulbous base with smallish opening; it is heavily tooled leather with florals and dimpled background with border and four registers neetly tucked into the shape. A small Qing quiver and large matching bowcase in contrasting leather overlay and embroidery accompany.
One Chinese whistling arrow with foot-long fletchings is hung while other long war arrows with short fletchings, armor piercing points and open nocks lie nearby. Other arrows fill the quiver. An illustration shows a Kazakh kneeling on one knee to brace a Qing bow over the thigh and under the knee. Several interpreters deny that China invaded Kazakhstan, rather it was the Arabs, 7c, Mongols 13c, and Jungars (Buddhist Mongols) 17c.
My traveling companion and I tour the city, the Central Cathedral-Russian Orthodox, nearby central Mosque, Art day on the lawn at the Art Museum, which has a great collection of yurt trappings. Have already seen felt rugs which are hard to find elsewhere, yurt belts, suzani tapestries, beds, nomad chests and etc.
Signs on the street are all in cyrillic, but fear not; I hold a city map in Latin letters, which no cabbie can read, so I interpret for them! Capitalism wins the day and we make our way to the Green market to discover epicurean treats of the country.
Let me mention here just how beautiful Kz women are, and don't forget those remaining Russian women who still live there. -j-
I forgot to mention that Iron points of the first centuries are triangular, compact to broadhead, with a round or rarely square tang. These are sometimes found in rusted masses showing their inclusion into burials presumably in quivers full of identical arrows, 200BC-200AD. Three blade continue in various elongated shapes, now with ring collars above the tang, also chizle shaped, leaf shaped, as well as compact bone diamond cross-sectioned points with tapered tangs. An armor scale 1"x3 1/4" with 12 mounting holes is displayed. 6-8c AD.
Flat spatulate, tree leaf, diamond shaped and diamond point spatulate blades from 1 5/8 to 2 3/4" long with ring collars were found from the 13-14 c. We should have a discussion on this sometimes but supports my assumption that these arrows were used at close range, were part of an arrow tool kit for specific targets and thus needed to be carried point up for field identification. A threesome of almost completely straight bone siyah side plates with bulbous ends awaits translation from Russian.
The earlier photos from upstairs show a large Manchurian style bow with diagonal birchbark and black nock inserts, now almost straightened out from use. A less massive painted Manchurian bow retains classic C shape but has a broken nock. It is always interesting to try to determine what happened to the bow. A very long quiver which will probably prove to be Kazakh sports a large bulbous base with smallish opening; it is heavily tooled leather with florals and dimpled background with border and four registers neetly tucked into the shape. A small Qing quiver and large matching bowcase in contrasting leather overlay and embroidery accompany.
One Chinese whistling arrow with foot-long fletchings is hung while other long war arrows with short fletchings, armor piercing points and open nocks lie nearby. Other arrows fill the quiver. An illustration shows a Kazakh kneeling on one knee to brace a Qing bow over the thigh and under the knee. Several interpreters deny that China invaded Kazakhstan, rather it was the Arabs, 7c, Mongols 13c, and Jungars (Buddhist Mongols) 17c.
My traveling companion and I tour the city, the Central Cathedral-Russian Orthodox, nearby central Mosque, Art day on the lawn at the Art Museum, which has a great collection of yurt trappings. Have already seen felt rugs which are hard to find elsewhere, yurt belts, suzani tapestries, beds, nomad chests and etc.
Signs on the street are all in cyrillic, but fear not; I hold a city map in Latin letters, which no cabbie can read, so I interpret for them! Capitalism wins the day and we make our way to the Green market to discover epicurean treats of the country.
Let me mention here just how beautiful Kz women are, and don't forget those remaining Russian women who still live there. -j-
The Green Market is a colossus of retailing with hundreds of vendors participating. But the main comodity, the one in the center of the largest space is meat. Raw meat is arranged in sections by animal. Under the picture of a cow is the beef, then there is sheep, another area for goat, another for chicken, horse has its own area, and pork. Many prepared foods are sold in their section, yogurt has a large section. Kazakhs and other Central Asians eat a lot of yogurt in various forms. Dry salty yogurt balls are shaped variously, some appear to have been fried. Yogurt drink is called iran.
Then there are the fresh milk sellers, cow, horse and camel. CAMEL ! we stop at the shubat stand and share a bowl of fermented camel's milk so I will know what it is like and so I can say I did. Shubat, fermented camel milk does not taste like milk, it is crisp, somewhat sharp, sour and tastes like it should effervesce but does not, After several sips the taste becomes less shocking. Down it goes.
We hire a local guide to finish showing us around Almaty. We end up in a ranshackle old neighborhood which Czar Nicholas had set aside for loyal Cossack and Tatar soldiers, called Taterka, Tatat town. Houses are more than 100 years old but much of the original charm remains. We find Our Lady of Kazan orthodox church of 1898, The locals are ever so happy to show us inside; we meet the old priest around back and exchange greetings.
In the mountains there is just enough snow for diehards to ski using a modern lift. A young man demonstrates his eagle which his family hunts with traditionally; a nice calm male bird in good condition with smooth feathers.
Soon we board an old Russian airliner for a flight over some very rugged terrain of snow capped mountain ranges and into Tashkent the capital of Uzbekistan. This is fine flat farm land, a little warmer than Almaty. They also had a bad winter here, the worst in 40 years.
Besides the elm trees, gums, acacias, black locust, sycamores, oaks and the ubiquitious mulberry trees are to be seen on city streets. Today I get to finally meet my co-author, with whom I have published 9 articles, but have never met in person, Dr. Vladimir Karasev, and his son who has provided translation services for years. For although we both share an interest in history and archery, neighter of us understands the other's language!
With car and driver our entourage is now 5 as we visit the major historic sites of the city. Central Asian construction goes like this. There is very little building stone here so residences are primarly built of stuccoed mud brick and public buildings were historically made of fired brick, glazed brick and tile or tile mosaic. Mosques and mausoleums are of the highest possible quality and the intricacy is mind dazzling. There is also some carving of stone into lattice like screens, the same in plaster and interiors often incorporate lavish amounts of pure gold leaf. Wood carving is equally masterful. There is nothing like seeing for oneself.
Our party moves on to the Central History Museum, The Karasevs show us objects displayed that they themselves dug up. I feel their pride. Having a digital camera I am taking pictures of everything, Somehow it is all related. For instance, designs painted on bows are also seen on saddles, on boxes for writing materials. Techniques used on manuscripts are seen on Persian arrows. Bone inlay in furniture is also seen on saddles. It all is part of the whole. Editing can occur later.
We see a display of Hunza archery gear from nearby Afghanistan with their unique quiver design and very large arrows. A Hunza bow is a recurved longbow composite, almost straight, very roughly made and painted black. Their armor is 4 plates wrapped around the middle over a mail shirt, a lance and steel shield with bosses.
Yet another Qing Manchu bow occupies a case by itself, maybe a sign that it does not quite belong. It is long, thin, with horn tips and painted bark decoration. We also go to the new Amir Timur (Tammerlane) museum. I am accumulating also a lot of documentation on old traditional saddles, which I will share.
After two days in Tashkent we two Texans will take up our car and driver for the major road trip. Next stop, Penjikent, Tajikistan to view a town destroyed by Arabs in 750s AD.
Then there are the fresh milk sellers, cow, horse and camel. CAMEL ! we stop at the shubat stand and share a bowl of fermented camel's milk so I will know what it is like and so I can say I did. Shubat, fermented camel milk does not taste like milk, it is crisp, somewhat sharp, sour and tastes like it should effervesce but does not, After several sips the taste becomes less shocking. Down it goes.
We hire a local guide to finish showing us around Almaty. We end up in a ranshackle old neighborhood which Czar Nicholas had set aside for loyal Cossack and Tatar soldiers, called Taterka, Tatat town. Houses are more than 100 years old but much of the original charm remains. We find Our Lady of Kazan orthodox church of 1898, The locals are ever so happy to show us inside; we meet the old priest around back and exchange greetings.
In the mountains there is just enough snow for diehards to ski using a modern lift. A young man demonstrates his eagle which his family hunts with traditionally; a nice calm male bird in good condition with smooth feathers.
Soon we board an old Russian airliner for a flight over some very rugged terrain of snow capped mountain ranges and into Tashkent the capital of Uzbekistan. This is fine flat farm land, a little warmer than Almaty. They also had a bad winter here, the worst in 40 years.
Besides the elm trees, gums, acacias, black locust, sycamores, oaks and the ubiquitious mulberry trees are to be seen on city streets. Today I get to finally meet my co-author, with whom I have published 9 articles, but have never met in person, Dr. Vladimir Karasev, and his son who has provided translation services for years. For although we both share an interest in history and archery, neighter of us understands the other's language!
With car and driver our entourage is now 5 as we visit the major historic sites of the city. Central Asian construction goes like this. There is very little building stone here so residences are primarly built of stuccoed mud brick and public buildings were historically made of fired brick, glazed brick and tile or tile mosaic. Mosques and mausoleums are of the highest possible quality and the intricacy is mind dazzling. There is also some carving of stone into lattice like screens, the same in plaster and interiors often incorporate lavish amounts of pure gold leaf. Wood carving is equally masterful. There is nothing like seeing for oneself.
Our party moves on to the Central History Museum, The Karasevs show us objects displayed that they themselves dug up. I feel their pride. Having a digital camera I am taking pictures of everything, Somehow it is all related. For instance, designs painted on bows are also seen on saddles, on boxes for writing materials. Techniques used on manuscripts are seen on Persian arrows. Bone inlay in furniture is also seen on saddles. It all is part of the whole. Editing can occur later.
We see a display of Hunza archery gear from nearby Afghanistan with their unique quiver design and very large arrows. A Hunza bow is a recurved longbow composite, almost straight, very roughly made and painted black. Their armor is 4 plates wrapped around the middle over a mail shirt, a lance and steel shield with bosses.
Yet another Qing Manchu bow occupies a case by itself, maybe a sign that it does not quite belong. It is long, thin, with horn tips and painted bark decoration. We also go to the new Amir Timur (Tammerlane) museum. I am accumulating also a lot of documentation on old traditional saddles, which I will share.
After two days in Tashkent we two Texans will take up our car and driver for the major road trip. Next stop, Penjikent, Tajikistan to view a town destroyed by Arabs in 750s AD.
Jack,
You lucky man!! This is wonderful reading, I envy you. Will you also include some photographs in this thread, please?
You lucky man!! This is wonderful reading, I envy you. Will you also include some photographs in this thread, please?
quite amazing! I am very jealous! Keep 'em coming =P
We two and our new driver, Shakir, head south toward the Tajik border and our destination Penjikent. The driver is an Uzbek man of about 35 or 40 who wears the traditional Uzbek skullcap with four corners. He speaks Russian, Uzbek and Kazakh. Uz and Kz are both Turkic languages which a Turkish person can mostly understand if he is determined. Therefore my lifeline to the driver is my traveling companion. No problem as Shakir is seasoned and wants to help and will expect and earn a good tip besides the agreed fee.
The land is flat; we never loose sight of an irrigation ditch, canal or such. Almost every road is lined with straight-up poplar trees, often whitewashed at the base. This has a clean look. Roads are atrocious from the winter and our driver and all the others weave violently anywhere on the road that there is a clear patch of asphalt. Our driver speeds and soon is caught in a speed trap, which takes him about 2 minutes to pay his way out of. 2000 soms, about $1.48, a good sum in Uz.
Just a few words about money. Uz has a cash economy. I was told to bring dollars in new bills only. On arrival we two cashed $500 into soms, Uz currency, and we were given a stack of bills the size of a large brick. This was in their largest denomination, 1000 soms, equal to 74 cents each! When paying in dollars, which is agreeable, the merchants scrutinize the QUALITY of the bill. Any ink mark or the smallest tear makes that bill discounted in value to the merchant.
Not far out of town we see our first kurgan. On very level plains a kurgan rises very abruptly. Often there is a modern Moslem cemetary on the very top, sometimes with a small fence surrounding. We see dozens and dozens of these throughout our trip.
The driver takes us to the border and parks, he is not allowed into Tajikistan. With paperwork in hand we enter the gauntlet which is Central Asian customs; today Uz and Tajik. Another driver and guide await us on the Tajik side for the short trip to the ruins of the old city. It is cold and windy today; we are told that it has snowed in the mountains the last two nights. The Turkistan range is in the distance, the old city in the foreground on a river terrace overlooking the "new" city and then the Zarafshan (Gold bearing) River.
Old Penjikent was a Zoroastrian town built entirely of adobe mud brick, from the city wall, the palace, temples, commoners homes. It was a rich town doing a good Silk Road business. Penjikent was aligned with 4 other similar cities and belonging to the state of Sogdia. Almost every residence excavated had wall murals inside and many were taken to the Hermitage but the four walls of an extremely good mural are preserved in the minor museum of the site. A major theme is archery and the archaeologists have already noted that objects represented in murals are identical to excavated objects.
The king of Penjikent resisted the Arabs for 26 years. When he finally fled the city, he took the government papers and left them for posterity in a mountain cave. It was the discovery of those papers which led to the story of Old Penjikent, destroyed in the 750s AD. In the murals heroes battle with Hunnic bows, shoot arrows with long trilobed points, wear right side quivers with large bases, carry bows on the left side, sometimes two to a bow bag, and carry long thin rapier-like swords. Knights battle underworld demons from the Rustam saga of the Zoroastrians as well as fighting eachother like the famous Cimmerian epic in Herodotus.
The ruins can be taken as a whole to interpret the size of the origional walled city. Masses of broken pottery lay scattered about while goats clammor the ruins for greenery.
A side trip to the city bazar reminds us just how out of place two white boys can be when left to their own devices. We buy local wine (every oasis in Central Asia has its own wine), Tajik apricots and are given a fresh loaf of flat bread. Our guide invites us to his house for Chi (green tea) and dried fruit in the best tradition of hospitality. He tells us how Tajiks speak Farsi (Persian) because after a war with the Persians every Tajik male in the country was killed.
After half a day we go back to the border, go back through the gauntlet of customs and immigration. We find our original driver, Shakir, sleeping in the car and we head up the road toward Samarkand, the Capitol city of Tammerlane.
In a mural from the old city, c 700AD, Demons from hell do battle with Hunnic type bows from four wheel carts in a scene from the Zoroastrian "Avesta" holy book.
The land is flat; we never loose sight of an irrigation ditch, canal or such. Almost every road is lined with straight-up poplar trees, often whitewashed at the base. This has a clean look. Roads are atrocious from the winter and our driver and all the others weave violently anywhere on the road that there is a clear patch of asphalt. Our driver speeds and soon is caught in a speed trap, which takes him about 2 minutes to pay his way out of. 2000 soms, about $1.48, a good sum in Uz.
Just a few words about money. Uz has a cash economy. I was told to bring dollars in new bills only. On arrival we two cashed $500 into soms, Uz currency, and we were given a stack of bills the size of a large brick. This was in their largest denomination, 1000 soms, equal to 74 cents each! When paying in dollars, which is agreeable, the merchants scrutinize the QUALITY of the bill. Any ink mark or the smallest tear makes that bill discounted in value to the merchant.
Not far out of town we see our first kurgan. On very level plains a kurgan rises very abruptly. Often there is a modern Moslem cemetary on the very top, sometimes with a small fence surrounding. We see dozens and dozens of these throughout our trip.
The driver takes us to the border and parks, he is not allowed into Tajikistan. With paperwork in hand we enter the gauntlet which is Central Asian customs; today Uz and Tajik. Another driver and guide await us on the Tajik side for the short trip to the ruins of the old city. It is cold and windy today; we are told that it has snowed in the mountains the last two nights. The Turkistan range is in the distance, the old city in the foreground on a river terrace overlooking the "new" city and then the Zarafshan (Gold bearing) River.
Old Penjikent was a Zoroastrian town built entirely of adobe mud brick, from the city wall, the palace, temples, commoners homes. It was a rich town doing a good Silk Road business. Penjikent was aligned with 4 other similar cities and belonging to the state of Sogdia. Almost every residence excavated had wall murals inside and many were taken to the Hermitage but the four walls of an extremely good mural are preserved in the minor museum of the site. A major theme is archery and the archaeologists have already noted that objects represented in murals are identical to excavated objects.
The king of Penjikent resisted the Arabs for 26 years. When he finally fled the city, he took the government papers and left them for posterity in a mountain cave. It was the discovery of those papers which led to the story of Old Penjikent, destroyed in the 750s AD. In the murals heroes battle with Hunnic bows, shoot arrows with long trilobed points, wear right side quivers with large bases, carry bows on the left side, sometimes two to a bow bag, and carry long thin rapier-like swords. Knights battle underworld demons from the Rustam saga of the Zoroastrians as well as fighting eachother like the famous Cimmerian epic in Herodotus.
The ruins can be taken as a whole to interpret the size of the origional walled city. Masses of broken pottery lay scattered about while goats clammor the ruins for greenery.
A side trip to the city bazar reminds us just how out of place two white boys can be when left to their own devices. We buy local wine (every oasis in Central Asia has its own wine), Tajik apricots and are given a fresh loaf of flat bread. Our guide invites us to his house for Chi (green tea) and dried fruit in the best tradition of hospitality. He tells us how Tajiks speak Farsi (Persian) because after a war with the Persians every Tajik male in the country was killed.
After half a day we go back to the border, go back through the gauntlet of customs and immigration. We find our original driver, Shakir, sleeping in the car and we head up the road toward Samarkand, the Capitol city of Tammerlane.
In a mural from the old city, c 700AD, Demons from hell do battle with Hunnic type bows from four wheel carts in a scene from the Zoroastrian "Avesta" holy book.
Hey Jack!
I really would like to see any Bow pictures from Uzbekistan; Especially those from the Bukhara region. At least a description and comparison to bows that I might have seen already.
Have a great Time. Don't forget to go up to the Tyumen Region and go to Tobolsk Siberia.
I really would like to see any Bow pictures from Uzbekistan; Especially those from the Bukhara region. At least a description and comparison to bows that I might have seen already.
Have a great Time. Don't forget to go up to the Tyumen Region and go to Tobolsk Siberia.
I intend to post pictures soon. Sorry for the delays, pics make the text better, I understand. Here is my dilema about posting bow pictures. I want to share what I found with the widest possible audience, in the most timely manner. However things that are electronic do not last as long as things which are printed. The publishers will not print material which has already been published, even online. Therefore I will publish the bow pictures first in an archery magazine and later post the pictures here on ATARN.
This takes a long time I know. Two marvelous unpublished bows I found in a Korean museum last year will not get to print till late this year. It will be two full years before my friends here see the images.
But I will DESCRIBE here what I have found in Central Asia. Thanks for understanding. Jack
This takes a long time I know. Two marvelous unpublished bows I found in a Korean museum last year will not get to print till late this year. It will be two full years before my friends here see the images.
But I will DESCRIBE here what I have found in Central Asia. Thanks for understanding. Jack
Samarkand; some have said that it is the center of the world. This is an old Silk Road city which is halfway between east and west.Tammerlane made it his capitol bringing artisans, merchants and all manner of persons from his conquered lands. T was a Moslem but encouraged all philosophies and religions. It seems strange to a westerner just what a cult following this man has.
In 1991 when the "stans" declared themselves free of the Solviet systen, the statues of Lennin were pulled down and remelted into images of Tammerlane. The Russians had already exumed T's corpse from his mausuleum in Samarkand and built forensic models of his head, measured his body. Statues of T are everywhere to be seen. What about his grandfather, Genggis Khan? He is seen as a great destroyer of cities and peoples, even though locals carry his blood. Tammenlane, however built many sumptios and lasting monuments which still remain.
T did not want any of his sons to inherit his realm. Instead he chose a grandson, who was then killed by a family member. T's grief was so great that he had a major public building erected to the grandson. As it happened, T later died in the winter, could not be taken home to his village for burial, and so was put in the mauseleum with his grandson.
We head to the History museum and find a wonderful bow and arrows. After making an appointment to come back I return to examine the bow and arrows. A technical translator agrees to meet us so that the story will be gotten exactly.
The bow is Turkic, bent into a deep C shape, and painted black. The horn is not visible because of having been wrapped totally in sinew. This sinewing and the one coat of paint all look original. The sinew is crackling cross wise on the belly, long wise on the back and diagonally on the siyahs. A thin, black slip of horn is visible through the nocks. Mid limb dimension is 1/2 by 2". At 56 or 57" overall, this is the most powerful looking bow that I can remember seeing, more formidable that a Tatar bow. This is my impression.
Several Fir arrows accompany the bow but are not part of a set. The 24 3/4" shafts are barreled, 3/8 mid shaft, 1/4" at point, which is drilled for a tang of the missing points; nocks are 1/2 " diameter.
We proceed with our translator, a goddess of a Tatar woman, to the Bavarian beer garden to discuss our find. Then we four get dinner at a local eatery before retiring for the night. Uzbek food is a delight of the unexpected, charcoaled fat meat, soup, fresh vegetables, ubiquitious flat bread, libation.
Next morning we head west to Bukhara.
Just some quick trivia: Traditional Uzbeks stand out for their dress. Women in traditional outfits wear long shirt like affairs that end below the knee to mid calf. This is made of silk or silk and cotton ikat weave fabric. Often pants of the same material are worn together. Alternately many in the markets wear long skirts, blouses and or pants which are of a very bold and not matching print colors especially red and purple. Women cover their heads with little attempt to hide their hair, which is often long. A large group of women is as bright and colorful as the native tulips and poppies now blooming everywhere.
In contrast, Uzbek men wear jackets and slacks and four-cornered skull caps in drab colors. The majority of adults has many gold capped teeth. Uzbek hospitality is famous.
In 1991 when the "stans" declared themselves free of the Solviet systen, the statues of Lennin were pulled down and remelted into images of Tammerlane. The Russians had already exumed T's corpse from his mausuleum in Samarkand and built forensic models of his head, measured his body. Statues of T are everywhere to be seen. What about his grandfather, Genggis Khan? He is seen as a great destroyer of cities and peoples, even though locals carry his blood. Tammenlane, however built many sumptios and lasting monuments which still remain.
T did not want any of his sons to inherit his realm. Instead he chose a grandson, who was then killed by a family member. T's grief was so great that he had a major public building erected to the grandson. As it happened, T later died in the winter, could not be taken home to his village for burial, and so was put in the mauseleum with his grandson.
We head to the History museum and find a wonderful bow and arrows. After making an appointment to come back I return to examine the bow and arrows. A technical translator agrees to meet us so that the story will be gotten exactly.
The bow is Turkic, bent into a deep C shape, and painted black. The horn is not visible because of having been wrapped totally in sinew. This sinewing and the one coat of paint all look original. The sinew is crackling cross wise on the belly, long wise on the back and diagonally on the siyahs. A thin, black slip of horn is visible through the nocks. Mid limb dimension is 1/2 by 2". At 56 or 57" overall, this is the most powerful looking bow that I can remember seeing, more formidable that a Tatar bow. This is my impression.
Several Fir arrows accompany the bow but are not part of a set. The 24 3/4" shafts are barreled, 3/8 mid shaft, 1/4" at point, which is drilled for a tang of the missing points; nocks are 1/2 " diameter.
We proceed with our translator, a goddess of a Tatar woman, to the Bavarian beer garden to discuss our find. Then we four get dinner at a local eatery before retiring for the night. Uzbek food is a delight of the unexpected, charcoaled fat meat, soup, fresh vegetables, ubiquitious flat bread, libation.
Next morning we head west to Bukhara.
Just some quick trivia: Traditional Uzbeks stand out for their dress. Women in traditional outfits wear long shirt like affairs that end below the knee to mid calf. This is made of silk or silk and cotton ikat weave fabric. Often pants of the same material are worn together. Alternately many in the markets wear long skirts, blouses and or pants which are of a very bold and not matching print colors especially red and purple. Women cover their heads with little attempt to hide their hair, which is often long. A large group of women is as bright and colorful as the native tulips and poppies now blooming everywhere.
In contrast, Uzbek men wear jackets and slacks and four-cornered skull caps in drab colors. The majority of adults has many gold capped teeth. Uzbek hospitality is famous.
Kurgan of Kazakhstan, one of thousands,
On a back road near Tashkent.
Young eagle hunter, son of an eagle hunter, Kazakhstan.
Ayazkala fortress in Karakalpakstan region of Uzbekistan. The outer wall with walkway below the other.
We pass many Kurgans. These are somewhat spaced out from eachother on nice grazing land. Some are of a spectacular size which would require lots of time with modern earthmoving equipment to make today. Must have required many slaves in antiquity to build.
North of Navoiy we take the north road to the Sarmishay Rock Art site. About a two mile hike and we are looking at rock faces in a small valley with running water. There are probably thousands of individual petroglyphs but they take some work and climbing to locate. Many represent archers with recurved bows.
Along this stretch of dry land there are many box turtles wandering about. My companion calls desolate steppes "turtle Kingdom"; might be the only animal one sees.
Back to the main road we now see Tamarisk shrubs and Magpies. On any rural road one sees burro carts; some ride the burro while it pulls a cart, or ride just the burro with a bag of grain in front. Herdsmen walk cattle along the road, which is a hazard, sometimes on a leash. The best sight was a donkey cart with two steers in tow followed by another of the same. Wouldn't you know that my batteries died at that moment. Was waiting to see someone riding a steer but didn't happen.
Next stop was the ceramics museum at Gizhduvan. A 6th generation potter leads a team or apprentices. One young man is in a manhole size hole in the floor loading a wood fired kiln. A donkey powers a mill to grind ingredients. This is out of another century.
Scrub gives way to cotton fields, vineyards and ditches with phragmites cane as we enter Bukhara. Cotton makes a large portion of the economy of Uz. Our hotel is in the historic district. The city is so well kept; buildings of the 14th century are in everyday use; the sense of history pervades. For anyone who has been to Santa Fe, New Mexico, the similarity is striking. A local rug merchant who went there agrees with me entirely, even to the local Hispanic populace who look Uzbek. We barter and buy. Our pile of fabulous plunder amasses.
We two choose a cafe near a city pond; shashlik, fried hand made noodles, veggies, red beans, bread and pot of green tea, for 2- $9!
Next morning our city guide meets us early at the Hotel. This is a mature woman, born and raised in Bukhara. She wants us to follow an itinerary. Guides always do. At first she chafes but we proceed to the History museum to see a bow. This bow was published in "Heirs to the Silk Road", the only bow in a huge book. I am allowed to examine and measure it and am not disappointed. It is a colossus; at around 58" overall and 5/8 x 2" midlimb, it is much stronger than the Samarkand bow. This one also reflexes in the grip slightly, the limbs look curved from use, the siyahs end parallel. The overall shape is that of a much-used Sind bow; maybe something between Turk and Sind.
There is also a quiver but do not know if they are a set. The quiver is a 6 sided box, tapering slightly, 34" long, with beautiful paint on gold decoration, has an aristocratic appearance. This arrow box is identical to some in the Korean Military Museum. The bow, which looks military, is painted simply in black with red siyahs and some outlining. It is said that the bow went on tour, possibly Germany.
Our guide is friends with the custodian of the room and no one has any problems allowing me to touch. The bow has an eruption of the sinew above the grip and another on the horn at the same place. The horn, and indeed the entire bow is covered in sinew.
The director of the museum is called. She arrives in good spirits. We proceed to her office to drink green tea and talk bows, which is not her expertise. I recommend Turk Okculugu, since Uzbek is so similar to Turkish. I am hoping we can all communicate in the future.
Since this post is long, I will continue about another bow from Bukhara next time.
North of Navoiy we take the north road to the Sarmishay Rock Art site. About a two mile hike and we are looking at rock faces in a small valley with running water. There are probably thousands of individual petroglyphs but they take some work and climbing to locate. Many represent archers with recurved bows.
Along this stretch of dry land there are many box turtles wandering about. My companion calls desolate steppes "turtle Kingdom"; might be the only animal one sees.
Back to the main road we now see Tamarisk shrubs and Magpies. On any rural road one sees burro carts; some ride the burro while it pulls a cart, or ride just the burro with a bag of grain in front. Herdsmen walk cattle along the road, which is a hazard, sometimes on a leash. The best sight was a donkey cart with two steers in tow followed by another of the same. Wouldn't you know that my batteries died at that moment. Was waiting to see someone riding a steer but didn't happen.
Next stop was the ceramics museum at Gizhduvan. A 6th generation potter leads a team or apprentices. One young man is in a manhole size hole in the floor loading a wood fired kiln. A donkey powers a mill to grind ingredients. This is out of another century.
Scrub gives way to cotton fields, vineyards and ditches with phragmites cane as we enter Bukhara. Cotton makes a large portion of the economy of Uz. Our hotel is in the historic district. The city is so well kept; buildings of the 14th century are in everyday use; the sense of history pervades. For anyone who has been to Santa Fe, New Mexico, the similarity is striking. A local rug merchant who went there agrees with me entirely, even to the local Hispanic populace who look Uzbek. We barter and buy. Our pile of fabulous plunder amasses.
We two choose a cafe near a city pond; shashlik, fried hand made noodles, veggies, red beans, bread and pot of green tea, for 2- $9!
Next morning our city guide meets us early at the Hotel. This is a mature woman, born and raised in Bukhara. She wants us to follow an itinerary. Guides always do. At first she chafes but we proceed to the History museum to see a bow. This bow was published in "Heirs to the Silk Road", the only bow in a huge book. I am allowed to examine and measure it and am not disappointed. It is a colossus; at around 58" overall and 5/8 x 2" midlimb, it is much stronger than the Samarkand bow. This one also reflexes in the grip slightly, the limbs look curved from use, the siyahs end parallel. The overall shape is that of a much-used Sind bow; maybe something between Turk and Sind.
There is also a quiver but do not know if they are a set. The quiver is a 6 sided box, tapering slightly, 34" long, with beautiful paint on gold decoration, has an aristocratic appearance. This arrow box is identical to some in the Korean Military Museum. The bow, which looks military, is painted simply in black with red siyahs and some outlining. It is said that the bow went on tour, possibly Germany.
Our guide is friends with the custodian of the room and no one has any problems allowing me to touch. The bow has an eruption of the sinew above the grip and another on the horn at the same place. The horn, and indeed the entire bow is covered in sinew.
The director of the museum is called. She arrives in good spirits. We proceed to her office to drink green tea and talk bows, which is not her expertise. I recommend Turk Okculugu, since Uzbek is so similar to Turkish. I am hoping we can all communicate in the future.
Since this post is long, I will continue about another bow from Bukhara next time.
Thanks for the photos, Jack. I can appreciate what you say regarding bow pics but it is great to see this area.
When asked about other bows we are directed to the textile museum, Moschee Magoki Attari. We went there last night but did not find any bows. Today we make a real inspection and find one around in a blind corner. I am absolutley delighted to find a wonderfully painted stone bow, also called a pellet bow. It is a wood "D" bow 56 1/2" nock to nock, still strung, with a round tapered cross section throughout and a leather grip below center. The two twisted sinew strings are intact as well as the cloth pocket.
The entire wood surface is adorned in numerous registers of different color and design schemes. Because damaged areas seem to show a different color scheme below, it is somewhat difficult to make out the individual registers. The museum card indicates the beginning of the 19th c. I consider this to have been the property of a young boy of some upper class family. This is the first stone bow of which I can remember seeing which is not of Chinese origin.
The textile museum is in one of the ancient trading circles; masterfully built structures with multiple vaulted ceilings entirely made of brick. There are four of these; the silk market, jewelry market, moneychangers market, and rug market. These are original designations which are no longer followed. The historic zone is about 26 hectacres with a city wall and all that goes with it.
The standard greeting is to put eighter hand on the heart and say "a salom hallakum". This is said in a heartfelt manner and then a hand is offered in handshake. People are honest, friendly, inquisitive and clean in their persons and clothing. Many business owners are women who are not shy to bargain. There is an egalitarian air.
I can't pass without mentioning the "Minaret Girls". Our guide tells to watch out for them. These are young women, girls really, who have grown up as private traders in tourist goods in the shadow of the famous minaret of the central square. Minaret girls, about 8 or 10 of them, are sharply dressed in traditional garb and bargain their wares off the sidewalk in an aggressive manner. We hear that they have been written about and have traveled to Europe as modern cultural novelties.
Next morning we depart for Khiva. We see more kurgans as the landscape turns very dry and scrub. We see our first prarie dogs-rodents. The driver-Shakir- snacks on yogurt balls, grimey little dry balls of salty but not hard yogurt, noticably whiter inside than out. These do not look fresh; he says that they last a long time- for years even. I accept and eat many as we are sharing my granola bars, which he eats and hoards for later.
We are stopped a second time at a border control station and the driver speaks authoratively at first and then somewhat agressively to the guards who open the bar and let us pass. Maybe they expect money and Shakir is not having any of that. In the sands I photo turtle tracks, beetle tracks and a beautiful plant identified as an umbrella plant.
The road becomes even worse with absolute craters; we continue weaving eratically as we speed along towards Sarimay where we first take sight of the Amudarya River before turning north away from the crossing into Turkmenistan.
It is now late afternoon when we see a restaurant with a 3 foot catfish hanging outside. We go in and order 1.5 kl of that fish caught in the Amudarya, which is cooked outside in a wood fired wok. Served with salsa, onions and fresh bread and large local beers; we finish with just delivered cake. Locals at another table insist we toast with vodka, not to Uzbekistan as I suggest but to TEXAS which absolutely everyone seems to know about, in an other-side-of-the-world kind of way!
Our car pulls into Khiva in time for us to climb a tower in the historic zone for a look at the city at sunset. The hotel is just outside of the city wall, royal gate.
The entire wood surface is adorned in numerous registers of different color and design schemes. Because damaged areas seem to show a different color scheme below, it is somewhat difficult to make out the individual registers. The museum card indicates the beginning of the 19th c. I consider this to have been the property of a young boy of some upper class family. This is the first stone bow of which I can remember seeing which is not of Chinese origin.
The textile museum is in one of the ancient trading circles; masterfully built structures with multiple vaulted ceilings entirely made of brick. There are four of these; the silk market, jewelry market, moneychangers market, and rug market. These are original designations which are no longer followed. The historic zone is about 26 hectacres with a city wall and all that goes with it.
The standard greeting is to put eighter hand on the heart and say "a salom hallakum". This is said in a heartfelt manner and then a hand is offered in handshake. People are honest, friendly, inquisitive and clean in their persons and clothing. Many business owners are women who are not shy to bargain. There is an egalitarian air.
I can't pass without mentioning the "Minaret Girls". Our guide tells to watch out for them. These are young women, girls really, who have grown up as private traders in tourist goods in the shadow of the famous minaret of the central square. Minaret girls, about 8 or 10 of them, are sharply dressed in traditional garb and bargain their wares off the sidewalk in an aggressive manner. We hear that they have been written about and have traveled to Europe as modern cultural novelties.
Next morning we depart for Khiva. We see more kurgans as the landscape turns very dry and scrub. We see our first prarie dogs-rodents. The driver-Shakir- snacks on yogurt balls, grimey little dry balls of salty but not hard yogurt, noticably whiter inside than out. These do not look fresh; he says that they last a long time- for years even. I accept and eat many as we are sharing my granola bars, which he eats and hoards for later.
We are stopped a second time at a border control station and the driver speaks authoratively at first and then somewhat agressively to the guards who open the bar and let us pass. Maybe they expect money and Shakir is not having any of that. In the sands I photo turtle tracks, beetle tracks and a beautiful plant identified as an umbrella plant.
The road becomes even worse with absolute craters; we continue weaving eratically as we speed along towards Sarimay where we first take sight of the Amudarya River before turning north away from the crossing into Turkmenistan.
It is now late afternoon when we see a restaurant with a 3 foot catfish hanging outside. We go in and order 1.5 kl of that fish caught in the Amudarya, which is cooked outside in a wood fired wok. Served with salsa, onions and fresh bread and large local beers; we finish with just delivered cake. Locals at another table insist we toast with vodka, not to Uzbekistan as I suggest but to TEXAS which absolutely everyone seems to know about, in an other-side-of-the-world kind of way!
Our car pulls into Khiva in time for us to climb a tower in the historic zone for a look at the city at sunset. The hotel is just outside of the city wall, royal gate.
Zoomed in from a distance; the real thing, living off the land.
Khiva means good water. It is said that this city started with a single good well. People hold wells here to be sacred and make them part of pilgrimages. We have seen wells that are said to be 1000 years old.
Khiva has a city wall enclosing perhaps 10 by 10 city blocks. There are four entrances; one for the ruler, one for others, one for caravans and one for slaves. Commoners were not generally allowed inside the city gates. There was a slave market in one corner. Raiding was done for Russians to sell in the market till one of the czars got enough of it. The Russians came into the city when the ruler was out of town and took his royal silver throne back to Russia. That showed him!
This is the most historically complete place we have seen on our trip. Mosques, palace buildings, an audience hall, grave yards, bazaars, private residences and now hotels are all enclosed in the historic zone. The gates never close. Many craft shops such as wood carving, antique textiles, and rug making proliferate the historic zone. Where they are rebuilding some houses it is possible to see the original construction when walls are pulled down exposing other structures.
The silk rugmaking shop has an incredible volume of silk string hanging out in the sun. I had always thought that silk filament was like a spider web but am surprised to find out that it has some volume. Maybe several filaments would make a thread. Silk cord used for rug base is incredibly cheap here if one could only navigate Russian, customs and payment.
Khiva is the old capitol of the area of Khoriezm. Khoriezm was in ancient times almost an empire making up a large portion of Turkestan. This is now reduced today to a small but important part of Uzbekistan and includes much prime farm land in the delta of the Amudarya River.
This delta used to flood to 30 or 40 miles wide so the rulers went north that distance to build their fortresses. My friend and I plus the driver and our guide proceed north into Karakalpakstan area to see these fortresses, called Kalas. The first one built was that of King Ayaz, known as Ayazkala, built on a small hill c 300 AD. It is unique at being complete but not having a gate. One might assume that it was entered through a tunnel. On a much larger hill overlooking Ayazkala is another much larger kala with a military garrison. We take time to clammor about the fortress and have a good vantage to photo the Ayazkala below.
An enterprising Uzbek woman has built a yurt village at Ayazkala where foreign visitors come to stay,treck on camels, visit the ruins and canoe. The establishment cooks for visitors in a typical primitive kitchen
As the royal families multiplied, they built new kalas nearby. There are about 50 known kalas still standing, till c 10th c. We visit Kizilkala-red kala- and Tuprakala. Many fortifies places in this part of the world did not allow commoners to live inside the walls. There are often the remains of small villages just outside. Olive groves, willows, black elms, tamarisk, poplars and phragmites canes are common in this area.
We say our last goodbyes to our excellent driver,and proceed to Urgkent to fly to Tashkent, then Almaty and then for our last adventure to Tammerlane's headquarters beginning a roadtrip in Chymkent-called Texas-by many Kazaks.
Khiva has a city wall enclosing perhaps 10 by 10 city blocks. There are four entrances; one for the ruler, one for others, one for caravans and one for slaves. Commoners were not generally allowed inside the city gates. There was a slave market in one corner. Raiding was done for Russians to sell in the market till one of the czars got enough of it. The Russians came into the city when the ruler was out of town and took his royal silver throne back to Russia. That showed him!
This is the most historically complete place we have seen on our trip. Mosques, palace buildings, an audience hall, grave yards, bazaars, private residences and now hotels are all enclosed in the historic zone. The gates never close. Many craft shops such as wood carving, antique textiles, and rug making proliferate the historic zone. Where they are rebuilding some houses it is possible to see the original construction when walls are pulled down exposing other structures.
The silk rugmaking shop has an incredible volume of silk string hanging out in the sun. I had always thought that silk filament was like a spider web but am surprised to find out that it has some volume. Maybe several filaments would make a thread. Silk cord used for rug base is incredibly cheap here if one could only navigate Russian, customs and payment.
Khiva is the old capitol of the area of Khoriezm. Khoriezm was in ancient times almost an empire making up a large portion of Turkestan. This is now reduced today to a small but important part of Uzbekistan and includes much prime farm land in the delta of the Amudarya River.
This delta used to flood to 30 or 40 miles wide so the rulers went north that distance to build their fortresses. My friend and I plus the driver and our guide proceed north into Karakalpakstan area to see these fortresses, called Kalas. The first one built was that of King Ayaz, known as Ayazkala, built on a small hill c 300 AD. It is unique at being complete but not having a gate. One might assume that it was entered through a tunnel. On a much larger hill overlooking Ayazkala is another much larger kala with a military garrison. We take time to clammor about the fortress and have a good vantage to photo the Ayazkala below.
An enterprising Uzbek woman has built a yurt village at Ayazkala where foreign visitors come to stay,treck on camels, visit the ruins and canoe. The establishment cooks for visitors in a typical primitive kitchen
As the royal families multiplied, they built new kalas nearby. There are about 50 known kalas still standing, till c 10th c. We visit Kizilkala-red kala- and Tuprakala. Many fortifies places in this part of the world did not allow commoners to live inside the walls. There are often the remains of small villages just outside. Olive groves, willows, black elms, tamarisk, poplars and phragmites canes are common in this area.
We say our last goodbyes to our excellent driver,and proceed to Urgkent to fly to Tashkent, then Almaty and then for our last adventure to Tammerlane's headquarters beginning a roadtrip in Chymkent-called Texas-by many Kazaks.
THe Khiva city wall.
Dear folks; We have arrived at the final day of the Silk Road Odyssey. I have learned that everywhere we went people felt that they were on the Silk Road. This is a romantic idea without an exact place or time. To be sure the process of moving goods around did not just happen on a super highway but also on a myriad of small back roads. The consumption was also not intended to be trans continental. There is ample proof that local populaces everywhere along the Silk Road were also consumers of imported goods.
Today we fly to Chimkent (green city) also called tay HAAS (Texas). We thought there was a Texas, Kazakhstan but this turned out to be a joke of sorts. Our driver picked us up at the airport and headed out on his itinerary. Within a minute we had him straightened out and he makes a u turn and heads for Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan. The old name was Yasi.
We pass fields of wild poppies and numerous kurgans. The guide tells us that there are more than 1500 kurgans in the vicinity. This is also the most northern cotton farming in the world.
But first we get to the museum in Timur which is a goldmine of folk crafts. There is the finest yurt display complete with beds, Wall mounted Wood sink, and textiles of course. There is a nomad forge for iron and the tools. There is falconry equipment, a 300 year old boat for transporting goods on the Syrdarya R., a display of Kipchak arrowheads, a catapult display, lots of ceramics, etc.
We move on to Otrar (middle of the road) fortress, the place where Tammerlane died. On a flat plane the fortress is about 100 feet high surrounded by an adobe mud brick wall. The Japanese are financing an archaeological dig which is ongoing. Already discovered is the oldest bath house in Central Asia and a modern structure is being built over it to preserve it. The site is covered in colored ceramic shards and animal and human bone fragments. The quantity is not to be believed. Dozens of structure foundations are exposed. These are fired brick.. It is said that the clay was not good here and this was also imported some distance.
Central Asians seem to love historical mysteries and I will share this one. Tammerlane was preparing the largest possible army to invade China. T was 70. He suddenly took sick and died. Now Moslems do not generally enbalm the dead but in order to transport T back to Uzbekistan to the village of his birth, this was apparantly necessary. When the body arrived in Samarkand, the mountain road to his village was impassible till Spring and so he was buried in his grandson's mauseleum. When the Russians dug up his remains he was found in a wooden coffin. This is also not traditional. So the conspiracy stories abound about this great man's death.
What seems certain is that the Chinese were probably glad that the great organizer did not use his skills on them!
We visit the Haristam Bop Mausoleum (Brave Lion), lunch in Shoulder and then press on to the Khoda Yasi Mausoleum, our great goal. Tammerlane had a colossal caldron cast in 1401 to commemorate a holy man. The mausoleum is as large as a cathedral, HUGE. The caldron is in the center of the main hall, looks like a footed bowl 5-6 feet high and 8-9 feet across, weighing in at two tons. This treasure of the country spent some time in the Hermitage but was repatriated in 1994 to the original location. I feel sure that many of the treasures of Central Asia are forever locked up in the Hermitage including many of the archery goodies I was hoping to see.
The other buildings on the grounds would take another post to describe; the reconstructed commercial street, the gargantuan fortress restored, an original bath house-tea house-massage area- all underground, a Russian barracks History museum. Taras, the place where the Chinese faced the Arabs in the 7th c is not far down the road.
We return to Chimkent famished and proceed to a local eatery determine to eat nomad food-bish bar mack- horse meat sausage, slabs of horse fat, crushed chili sauce, boiled beef, noodles, shurpa- greasy lamb broth, and KHUMIS-fermented horse milk which does not go well with beer we found out. But it all settled, was even tasty.
This is the last of my Central Asia adventure, the trip of a lifetime to be sure. If you decide to go remember that there is precious little tourist acomodation, though people mean to be hospitiable, their understanding of what is needed may not match yours. And remember that the customs rules seem to have been invented to deprive you of your money at the borders. Plan ahead and learn the rules.
Thanks to my dear friend Bsky for making this all possible. Jack Farrell
Today we fly to Chimkent (green city) also called tay HAAS (Texas). We thought there was a Texas, Kazakhstan but this turned out to be a joke of sorts. Our driver picked us up at the airport and headed out on his itinerary. Within a minute we had him straightened out and he makes a u turn and heads for Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan. The old name was Yasi.
We pass fields of wild poppies and numerous kurgans. The guide tells us that there are more than 1500 kurgans in the vicinity. This is also the most northern cotton farming in the world.
But first we get to the museum in Timur which is a goldmine of folk crafts. There is the finest yurt display complete with beds, Wall mounted Wood sink, and textiles of course. There is a nomad forge for iron and the tools. There is falconry equipment, a 300 year old boat for transporting goods on the Syrdarya R., a display of Kipchak arrowheads, a catapult display, lots of ceramics, etc.
We move on to Otrar (middle of the road) fortress, the place where Tammerlane died. On a flat plane the fortress is about 100 feet high surrounded by an adobe mud brick wall. The Japanese are financing an archaeological dig which is ongoing. Already discovered is the oldest bath house in Central Asia and a modern structure is being built over it to preserve it. The site is covered in colored ceramic shards and animal and human bone fragments. The quantity is not to be believed. Dozens of structure foundations are exposed. These are fired brick.. It is said that the clay was not good here and this was also imported some distance.
Central Asians seem to love historical mysteries and I will share this one. Tammerlane was preparing the largest possible army to invade China. T was 70. He suddenly took sick and died. Now Moslems do not generally enbalm the dead but in order to transport T back to Uzbekistan to the village of his birth, this was apparantly necessary. When the body arrived in Samarkand, the mountain road to his village was impassible till Spring and so he was buried in his grandson's mauseleum. When the Russians dug up his remains he was found in a wooden coffin. This is also not traditional. So the conspiracy stories abound about this great man's death.
What seems certain is that the Chinese were probably glad that the great organizer did not use his skills on them!
We visit the Haristam Bop Mausoleum (Brave Lion), lunch in Shoulder and then press on to the Khoda Yasi Mausoleum, our great goal. Tammerlane had a colossal caldron cast in 1401 to commemorate a holy man. The mausoleum is as large as a cathedral, HUGE. The caldron is in the center of the main hall, looks like a footed bowl 5-6 feet high and 8-9 feet across, weighing in at two tons. This treasure of the country spent some time in the Hermitage but was repatriated in 1994 to the original location. I feel sure that many of the treasures of Central Asia are forever locked up in the Hermitage including many of the archery goodies I was hoping to see.
The other buildings on the grounds would take another post to describe; the reconstructed commercial street, the gargantuan fortress restored, an original bath house-tea house-massage area- all underground, a Russian barracks History museum. Taras, the place where the Chinese faced the Arabs in the 7th c is not far down the road.
We return to Chimkent famished and proceed to a local eatery determine to eat nomad food-bish bar mack- horse meat sausage, slabs of horse fat, crushed chili sauce, boiled beef, noodles, shurpa- greasy lamb broth, and KHUMIS-fermented horse milk which does not go well with beer we found out. But it all settled, was even tasty.
This is the last of my Central Asia adventure, the trip of a lifetime to be sure. If you decide to go remember that there is precious little tourist acomodation, though people mean to be hospitiable, their understanding of what is needed may not match yours. And remember that the customs rules seem to have been invented to deprive you of your money at the borders. Plan ahead and learn the rules.
Thanks to my dear friend Bsky for making this all possible. Jack Farrell
Compare this bronze to the size of the people. It has been said that bronzes of this shape in Central; Asia are for commemorative purposes. This one was made to fill with sugar water to serve to pilgrims on friday services.
Don't tell my doctor I ate this. Look at all the fat!
A Timurid era shirt of plates and mail. 1400 AD. Note the holder for a porcelain tea bowl in the lower left. Serious warriors wanted tea, and not in just any bowl. -j-
Very interesting reading, it sounds like an unforgettable experience.
I haven't changed the text but have changed out for new photos. Check them all out. -j-
Jack, You are following my dream, I wish I were doing this too.
Orda Kahn, Can you recall a forgettable experience that you may or may not have had :lol: ?
Orda Kahn, Can you recall a forgettable experience that you may or may not have had :lol: ?