Roughane Kaman(Bow Oil or Bow Varnish)
I've found many recipes for making this oil but best of them is heating te resins first and then adding oil.
The oil could be lineseed,sesame or walnut and resins could be Sandrak, Colophon(Pine Pitch),Mastic and Dammer but in old days they call most of them sandros(Sandrak).this word point to many resins like ritianj(pine pitch).
i've make about 300g of this oil but after 5 coat of this on a piece of wood there is no shinny surface on wood?
I make it with this recipe:
i use 1:3 ratio for resins and oil but i think its better to use 1:2.i use a mixture of above resins and let them melt in a beaker and it starts to bubbling and foaming and after the resins melts i add warm oil to it.
Does i have to let the foaming ends and then add oil?when it starts foaming it takes many minutes to ends and my Dammer and a bit of Mastic didn't solve compeletely why?was it for low time for heating?and could it be lighter in color?
The oil could be lineseed,sesame or walnut and resins could be Sandrak, Colophon(Pine Pitch),Mastic and Dammer but in old days they call most of them sandros(Sandrak).this word point to many resins like ritianj(pine pitch).
i've make about 300g of this oil but after 5 coat of this on a piece of wood there is no shinny surface on wood?
I make it with this recipe:
i use 1:3 ratio for resins and oil but i think its better to use 1:2.i use a mixture of above resins and let them melt in a beaker and it starts to bubbling and foaming and after the resins melts i add warm oil to it.
Does i have to let the foaming ends and then add oil?when it starts foaming it takes many minutes to ends and my Dammer and a bit of Mastic didn't solve compeletely why?was it for low time for heating?and could it be lighter in color?
The resin you using, it is hard and dry?
When make the pine sap varnish using turpentine for solvent, you need use hardened, already dry sap, or the varnish never dry hard and shiny, it always stay soft and sticky like, maybe eventually its dry after very long time...
Anyway, with a oil I dont know, possibly this is problem or ratio needs to be altered.
When make the pine sap varnish using turpentine for solvent, you need use hardened, already dry sap, or the varnish never dry hard and shiny, it always stay soft and sticky like, maybe eventually its dry after very long time...
Anyway, with a oil I dont know, possibly this is problem or ratio needs to be altered.
Thank you Alex my resins are hard and dry and i use oil varnishes.
Thank you for this info. Very useful.
Best regards,
Best regards,
Mohammed; Did you read Adam's book? He has researched these issues. You seem to be aware of his work.
Yes Jack i've read Adams book.my problem is foaming proccess.he wrote that you have to wait till foaming ends and it take 20 minutes to 1 hour but it makes te resins darker!
I am afraid the darkening can not be avoided, but some resins dissolve in the oil easier with less darkening, such as dammar. The varnishes were graded depending on the color and the lightest were considered the best, although when mixed with pigments (for paints) the color of varnish is not as important.
I think in the case of varnish not drying glossy means there is not enough resin dissolved in it. The resin solidifies the drying coat to prevent soaking into the wood.
I wish I could do more experimenting with the varnishes. For example: is it possible to bleach the varnish by keeping it in the sun (in a bottle)? This has been done with pure oils. Or, how non-drying oilds behave in the varnishes, such as the sesame? Such oils should make the varnish very flexible.
Adam
I think in the case of varnish not drying glossy means there is not enough resin dissolved in it. The resin solidifies the drying coat to prevent soaking into the wood.
I wish I could do more experimenting with the varnishes. For example: is it possible to bleach the varnish by keeping it in the sun (in a bottle)? This has been done with pure oils. Or, how non-drying oilds behave in the varnishes, such as the sesame? Such oils should make the varnish very flexible.
Adam
Tanks everyone.Adam I'll melt more resins and pure the oil in it again and thank for your comment.i've heard in India they used sesame oil for their oil varnish and it's in the group of sicatives and if you put oil in sun it will thicken and some told thhat varnishh with this oil will dry sooner.
My last work on this oil wasn't successful so i sarted it again.
i use dammar for resin and 1:1 ratio.i cook it and it was very thick even thicker than honey then i pure more oil in it(1:2) and it's great.
Here it is:
i use dammar for resin and 1:1 ratio.i cook it and it was very thick even thicker than honey then i pure more oil in it(1:2) and it's great.
Here it is:
In our old manuscripts we have that you can use NAFT(Oil) for making it water and if you do this tis affect on it's quality!
I know that i can use NAft and turpentin but does is really affect on the quality of oil?
I know that i can use NAft and turpentin but does is really affect on the quality of oil?
How long time dry it?
Peto it takes about 30 hours to dry and is still too thick.