TRH.. what exactly is it?
Hello everybody!
Just a quick question for everybody. The main bow I am shooting at the moment, and very much enjoying is a Grozer Crimean Tartar 38lb TRH laminate bow and I have been wondering, what exactly IS the TRH laminate material?
The bow has a wood core ( hard to tell what type ) and can be seen through the back of the bow, which is transparrent as far down as where the kasan ends. From there to the handle, it is a dark brown material that is semi transparrent, and where it has been worked at the edges appears layered, like a pressed composite material. the belly is covered in a beautifully painted leather, so no idea what is under there.
Can anybody shed light on what this is actually made from?
Also, with this bow more than any other I have shot or seen, the limbs are VERY flexible. A modern recurve is hardly comparable to this type of bow, but regarding limb flexibility it is suprising. With my recurve ( Helix with Hoyt 990TX limbs ) you can only move the nock about 1/2" up or down, it is very stable. On the TRH, with little effort you can push the nock up several inches, completely deforming the bows curves, practically flattening one of the limbs with not much force required. Is this normal? I can post a picture to better explain what I mean if neccessary.
Thanks in advance!
Just a quick question for everybody. The main bow I am shooting at the moment, and very much enjoying is a Grozer Crimean Tartar 38lb TRH laminate bow and I have been wondering, what exactly IS the TRH laminate material?
The bow has a wood core ( hard to tell what type ) and can be seen through the back of the bow, which is transparrent as far down as where the kasan ends. From there to the handle, it is a dark brown material that is semi transparrent, and where it has been worked at the edges appears layered, like a pressed composite material. the belly is covered in a beautifully painted leather, so no idea what is under there.
Can anybody shed light on what this is actually made from?
Also, with this bow more than any other I have shot or seen, the limbs are VERY flexible. A modern recurve is hardly comparable to this type of bow, but regarding limb flexibility it is suprising. With my recurve ( Helix with Hoyt 990TX limbs ) you can only move the nock about 1/2" up or down, it is very stable. On the TRH, with little effort you can push the nock up several inches, completely deforming the bows curves, practically flattening one of the limbs with not much force required. Is this normal? I can post a picture to better explain what I mean if neccessary.
Thanks in advance!
I think TRH it is:
Glassfibre-wood-phenolic
I have tried sinew-wood-phenolic and it did not work, this may or may not be due to gluing failure.
The phenolic i used was HP2061.
Glassfibre-wood-phenolic
I have tried sinew-wood-phenolic and it did not work, this may or may not be due to gluing failure.
The phenolic i used was HP2061.
There is a joke among Hungarian archers when talking about Gr?zer bows: the TRH stands for TRabant. Nobody knows exactly what is it made of, so we say that the brownish-reddish layer is made of old Trabant cars.:)
Anyway, that strange flexibility is normal among TRH bows, I can easily flatten the limbs of my TRH Turkish bow, too. Besides this the TRH series were among the best traditional bows. Now Gr?zer replaced them with the Biocomposite series but I have no experience with those.
Anyway, that strange flexibility is normal among TRH bows, I can easily flatten the limbs of my TRH Turkish bow, too. Besides this the TRH series were among the best traditional bows. Now Gr?zer replaced them with the Biocomposite series but I have no experience with those.
That type of flexibility was not unusual in one piece bows in the 1980s. Some take downs had it too.
I have a TRH bow, which was lovely to shoot, but has developed a significant amount of asymmetry. Does anyone know how to fix it? I've tried bending it backwards like Grozer advised (and leaving it tied there for severa hours), but it slowly goes back to being asymmetrical (over 3 or 4 minutes).
It is only ever strung with the 2-person method.
It is only ever strung with the 2-person method.
It looks like people have been using improper stringing method:
http://www.nomadbows.com/forum/viewtopi ... 5336504af7
Also, is Csaba serious?
http://www.nomadbows.com/forum/viewtopi ... 5336504af7
http://www.nomadbows.com/forum/viewtopi ... 5336504af7
Also, is Csaba serious?
http://www.nomadbows.com/forum/viewtopi ... 5336504af7
Yes a rather sweeping statement and one that would make me look elsewhere if I was considering a bow purchase.
No man should use more than 50lbs or draw more than 30" .... whether he is 5ft 3" or 6ft 7"?
Maybe that is his own preference, or perhaps his bows are not safe to draw further.
No man should use more than 50lbs or draw more than 30" .... whether he is 5ft 3" or 6ft 7"?
Maybe that is his own preference, or perhaps his bows are not safe to draw further.
That is a somewhat surprising statement form Csaba. I know that he has jokingly said to Thomas that the popularity of the Korean bows has made people draw further back, but never said not too, until this statement.
My Da and Grandfather also told me the opposite about arrows; they said the longer the arrow the more accurate. Ed Scott an American bowyer also said that he prefers longer arrows. I guess to each their own.
Daryrush I have also heard of other people having the same issue with the TRH bows. I don't have an answer.
My Da and Grandfather also told me the opposite about arrows; they said the longer the arrow the more accurate. Ed Scott an American bowyer also said that he prefers longer arrows. I guess to each their own.
Daryrush I have also heard of other people having the same issue with the TRH bows. I don't have an answer.
I recently bought one Turkish TRH 50# for my self and it works great!
I use 33" bamboo arrows and for so long, there is no problems regarding drawing them full.
I also have had som minor prob. with the shape, first time from bad stringing and thene it seams like it stuck in that shape, as you say.
I measured the "breace hight" (are this the correct words in english?) after bending the bow back (like Gr?zer recommend) and there was only approx. 5 mm. diffrence as most.
No prob. using it though.
I will get some film of the shooting soon so I will then study the shape when drawing..
I use 33" bamboo arrows and for so long, there is no problems regarding drawing them full.
I also have had som minor prob. with the shape, first time from bad stringing and thene it seams like it stuck in that shape, as you say.
I measured the "breace hight" (are this the correct words in english?) after bending the bow back (like Gr?zer recommend) and there was only approx. 5 mm. diffrence as most.
No prob. using it though.
I will get some film of the shooting soon so I will then study the shape when drawing..
I have heard this as well. The max draw length for the models on the website, he says, refers to something of around 45 lbs. He says that a heavier bow has a shorter max draw length. I assume this is because a thicker slab of fibreglass is more likely to break.Orda Khan wrote:
Yes a rather sweeping statement and one that would make me look elsewhere if I was considering a bow purchase.
No man should use more than 50lbs or draw more than 30" .... whether he is 5ft 3" or 6ft 7"?
Maybe that is his own preference, or perhaps his bows are not safe to draw further.
I draw my 65@28 TRH Mughal to 31-32 inches and my 60@28 G5 Hungarian to 30-31. My 50@28 Old Scythian can handle a 31 inch draw as well.
He also states that in the case of the Extra III (true composite bows), the max draw length refers to when the bow starts to stack, I'd guess. He did bending tests on the limb and it didn't break, even when the siyah angle was nearly touching the handle. This might have been on a light bow though.
Jimmie, do you have a photo of your TRH Turkish bow when it had shape problems?
So, the conclusion is to go for the horn/sinew version if one wants to shoot heavy draw weight and long arrows. I wonder how the biocomposite fares with long arrows (>32") if the stated maximum draw length is only 32".
Problems with deformation under bow = often it may be arrows and lightweight. Bow with standardized stretching force for 28 "- in real the winding 32 'may be stronger on the bow 10 more lbs. Accordingly, it could then be selected for the mass of arrows - 8-10 grain / lb.daryush wrote:
I have a TRH bow, which was lovely to shoot, but has developed a significant amount of asymmetry.
Eg. bow 55lb / 28 "and length of the winding 32" arrow should be 65-70 lbs = minimum of 33 grams.
It probably will not be repaired ...
Nope, sorry..daryush wrote:
Jimmie, do you have a photo of your TRH Turkish bow when it had shape problems?
If the problem occurs again I will take some photos.
Thanks for the info.jchocz wrote:
Problems with deformation under bow = often it may be arrows and lightweight. Bow with standardized stretching force for 28 "- in real the winding 32 'may be stronger on the bow 10 more lbs. Accordingly, it could then be selected for the mass of arrows - 8-10 grain / lb.daryush wrote:
I have a TRH bow, which was lovely to shoot, but has developed a significant amount of asymmetry.
Eg. bow 55lb / 28 "and length of the winding 32" arrow should be 65-70 lbs = minimum of 33 grams.
It probably will not be repaired ...
Although actually I was using fairly heavy arrows, 50 - 55 grams, when I did shoot it. Later on it became more of a strength training bow. It developed suddenly, one day I strung it up and it was off. No previous signs of anything going on.