Birchbark, its processing and application as backing on bows
Please, anybody who knows more about the subject, please do a posting here. I have come to know, that Korean bowyers soak their birchbark in sea water for a year. Can anybody explain why this was being done and if this was the general practice from Hungary to Korea?
Also suggestions of application on bows are welcome.
Also suggestions of application on bows are welcome.
Alam; I have Birch barked three bows, none of which was perfectly done. But I would consider even the first as sucessful. It is a very satisfying technique which adds almost no weight to the bow.
My first Birch bark came from a piece of River Birch firewood that was brought to me. I simply peeled off the bark with a knife, cleaned the underside by scraping lightly and glued on with contact cement. I also experimented with hide glue but it was so time consuming that I abandoned that after a small trial. The bark pattern is very close, small, and pretty.
Next, I sent off to Naturalist.com (?) and told him that I wanted some birchbark which looked like paper and he sent enough for many bows for $40. total. The bark was thick and could be split into 3 to 4 layers. This bark, from the state of Maine, USA, had a bold pattern, widely spaced and was paler that of the Texas River Birch.
In other words, none of my birchbark ever saw sea water. But it must improve the quality, or else why bother?
The pattern of laying the bark markings diagonally on the limbs and perpendicular on the grip and siyahs, came from a Qing bow. Leave the horn exposed for a great contrast. In my opinion, an Asian bowyer wanted to show the quality of the horn and the horn was durable enough to expose.
The bark can then be treated by many methods for further effects. For instance Linseed oiling brings out the bark markings.
You can see my best effort under "Egyptian bows" heading. -j-
My first Birch bark came from a piece of River Birch firewood that was brought to me. I simply peeled off the bark with a knife, cleaned the underside by scraping lightly and glued on with contact cement. I also experimented with hide glue but it was so time consuming that I abandoned that after a small trial. The bark pattern is very close, small, and pretty.
Next, I sent off to Naturalist.com (?) and told him that I wanted some birchbark which looked like paper and he sent enough for many bows for $40. total. The bark was thick and could be split into 3 to 4 layers. This bark, from the state of Maine, USA, had a bold pattern, widely spaced and was paler that of the Texas River Birch.
In other words, none of my birchbark ever saw sea water. But it must improve the quality, or else why bother?
The pattern of laying the bark markings diagonally on the limbs and perpendicular on the grip and siyahs, came from a Qing bow. Leave the horn exposed for a great contrast. In my opinion, an Asian bowyer wanted to show the quality of the horn and the horn was durable enough to expose.
The bark can then be treated by many methods for further effects. For instance Linseed oiling brings out the bark markings.
You can see my best effort under "Egyptian bows" heading. -j-
Jack,
I have no expierience in birchbark application, which is one reason I want to find out more about this. I read the thread on the Egyptian bow that you've crafted but I couldn't find the birch bark part there.
Now, these are my own efforts so far: I felled a small birch tree of the European "white birch" variety and it had a nice smooth bark without many black fissures in it. Next I peeled the bark of, using a kitchen knife. The bark had several layers: the outer greyish layer that would come off first, next there was a nice bark piece composed of three layers. The first layer was whitish, resembling paper, the second was reddish in appearance and the third was covered by something resinous on its belly side. This three layers weren't easy to pull apart, but after having it done for a few times I developed a feeling for it. What I did was - leaving the first two layers stick together , just peeling off the resinous layer and of course, discarding the outer greyish layer. This "middle layer" didnt roll up as it did with its resinous layer still on it, and it had a very nice light brown/reddish colour & a velvety touch to it. I then used scissors, cutting the bark in equal size of about 3" x 8". I kept half of the bark like this and decided to soak the other half in salt water for which I used sea salt. After two month the bark in the salt water hasn't changed a bit. It seems to be quiet waterproof. So far, that is all I've done......
Do Korean & Chinese bowyers use Chinese "red birch" or "manchurian red birch"? Would be interesting to find out....
Is a "modern" mongolian target bow wrapped in birch bark all around? (it maybe some other material). Is this done because they haven't got buffalo horn and use ibex instead?
I have no expierience in birchbark application, which is one reason I want to find out more about this. I read the thread on the Egyptian bow that you've crafted but I couldn't find the birch bark part there.
Now, these are my own efforts so far: I felled a small birch tree of the European "white birch" variety and it had a nice smooth bark without many black fissures in it. Next I peeled the bark of, using a kitchen knife. The bark had several layers: the outer greyish layer that would come off first, next there was a nice bark piece composed of three layers. The first layer was whitish, resembling paper, the second was reddish in appearance and the third was covered by something resinous on its belly side. This three layers weren't easy to pull apart, but after having it done for a few times I developed a feeling for it. What I did was - leaving the first two layers stick together , just peeling off the resinous layer and of course, discarding the outer greyish layer. This "middle layer" didnt roll up as it did with its resinous layer still on it, and it had a very nice light brown/reddish colour & a velvety touch to it. I then used scissors, cutting the bark in equal size of about 3" x 8". I kept half of the bark like this and decided to soak the other half in salt water for which I used sea salt. After two month the bark in the salt water hasn't changed a bit. It seems to be quiet waterproof. So far, that is all I've done......
Do Korean & Chinese bowyers use Chinese "red birch" or "manchurian red birch"? Would be interesting to find out....
Is a "modern" mongolian target bow wrapped in birch bark all around? (it maybe some other material). Is this done because they haven't got buffalo horn and use ibex instead?
Alam; My first Egyptian bow photos are buried here somewhere. (?) I will try to repost if possible.
I do not believe that it is necessary to kill the tree to harvest bark.
My modern Mongolian bow is not covered with bark on the horn belly. But the belly is light colored and the Nubian Ibex and Crete Ibex that I have cut up are both black. So a question is, is Tien Shan Ibex horn light or dark inside?
My Korean bow has the Birch markings parallel to the bow and is partially painted. The horn is exposed.
I am sure that others also have some experience.
I do not believe that it is necessary to kill the tree to harvest bark.
My modern Mongolian bow is not covered with bark on the horn belly. But the belly is light colored and the Nubian Ibex and Crete Ibex that I have cut up are both black. So a question is, is Tien Shan Ibex horn light or dark inside?
My Korean bow has the Birch markings parallel to the bow and is partially painted. The horn is exposed.
I am sure that others also have some experience.
Old photos, -j-
another old photo,
As you can see, an Egyptian composite has the markings perpendicular with the seam on the back. They had many elaborate techniques.-j-
As you can see, an Egyptian composite has the markings perpendicular with the seam on the back. They had many elaborate techniques.-j-
Alam ed Din, Adnan
To get birchbark try this address from an supplier spez. in canoes as an interesting alternative:
http://www.barkcanoe.com/accessories.htm
R
To get birchbark try this address from an supplier spez. in canoes as an interesting alternative:
http://www.barkcanoe.com/accessories.htm
R
hi,
Reto?s posting of the above web-adress reminds me of www.nativetech.org.This is a great website,very useful for everybody who is working on any kind of ancient technologies.Thanks,nativetech!
Reto?s posting of the above web-adress reminds me of www.nativetech.org.This is a great website,very useful for everybody who is working on any kind of ancient technologies.Thanks,nativetech!
Jack, I love your Egyptian bow! I think I am jealous.....Thanks for digging up the photos. It looks like you've used a rather large piece of bark, covering the whole arm.May I ask how thick the bark was that you used?
Greetings & Salaam
(PS: I was felling that birch for it's wood, not just for the bark)
Greetings & Salaam
(PS: I was felling that birch for it's wood, not just for the bark)
Alam; There isn't any bark used on this bow which is more than 2.5 or 3 inches wide. The seams are butted; the decoration overlaid. The thickness is two and three layers. Maybe the seawater treatment was to keep the layers together better. Some Chinese bark overlays are quite thick.
This bow is merely a backed bow with a 5 piece core, in the Tut tradition. I gave it to the archeologist in the photo. My horn version is not going so well. There's always the next bow.
Twas never so difficult for the ancients, they had teachers! -j-
This bow is merely a backed bow with a 5 piece core, in the Tut tradition. I gave it to the archeologist in the photo. My horn version is not going so well. There's always the next bow.
Twas never so difficult for the ancients, they had teachers! -j-
Jack
what you said about the sea water treatment could be the reason but still we don't know for sure.........
You got a point in what you said about teachers. Thats why it is great that we can meet here and exchange our knowledge.
Greetings & Salaam
what you said about the sea water treatment could be the reason but still we don't know for sure.........
You got a point in what you said about teachers. Thats why it is great that we can meet here and exchange our knowledge.
Greetings & Salaam
Pliability and waterproofing were the two most often cited answers I heard as to why the bark was soaked in seawater for a year. It might be a combination. Sometime, when I get a chance, I'll try and pin down a more definite answer.
T
T
Thanks a lot Thomas
Now this is where pliability comes in......
So the bark actually becomes more waterproof by being soaked in this way.
Greetings & Salaam
Now this is where pliability comes in......
So the bark actually becomes more waterproof by being soaked in this way.
Greetings & Salaam
Thomas; Birch bark is used all over Canada for making waterproof containers and canoes without ever having gotten a seawater bath. Sometimes traditional people do things because that is the way they were taught without needing to understand why.
Ever notice how modern people have a hard time accepting anything? -j-
Ever notice how modern people have a hard time accepting anything? -j-
Jack
Maybe this whole thing is really about pliability and the bark does become
somewhat more elastic and,as you've already mentioned, it may help the several layers of the bark stick together and not come off one by one.....
but who knows......maybe the salt in the water also kills some fungus...
I think Thomas is the person who can really find out about this. I mean this
things aren't done for no reason, just because they where taught to do so.
Another thing that should be interesting is: That Korean bowyers don't just take any birchbark. As far as I know, they import it from northern China.
They have several birch species with red bark in China. I am curious which
tree is harvested for the bark.....
Greetings & Salaam
Maybe this whole thing is really about pliability and the bark does become
somewhat more elastic and,as you've already mentioned, it may help the several layers of the bark stick together and not come off one by one.....
but who knows......maybe the salt in the water also kills some fungus...
I think Thomas is the person who can really find out about this. I mean this
things aren't done for no reason, just because they where taught to do so.
Another thing that should be interesting is: That Korean bowyers don't just take any birchbark. As far as I know, they import it from northern China.
They have several birch species with red bark in China. I am curious which
tree is harvested for the bark.....
Greetings & Salaam
Alam ed Din, Adnan
I am currently in touch with John from
http://www.barkcanoe.com/accessories.htm
he has excellent rawmaterial to cover bows. I will let you know once I got my parcel about my experience. Meanwhile do not cut off too many trees in Germany :wink: .
Further, I am also in loose contact with a Chinese supplier/producer of birch bark (). The supplier told me, he smokes the material over an oven/fire before he takes off the inner layers. Once I know more about this process I will publish the results as well. Maybe somebody else knows more about this issue..
R
I am currently in touch with John from
http://www.barkcanoe.com/accessories.htm
he has excellent rawmaterial to cover bows. I will let you know once I got my parcel about my experience. Meanwhile do not cut off too many trees in Germany :wink: .
Further, I am also in loose contact with a Chinese supplier/producer of birch bark (). The supplier told me, he smokes the material over an oven/fire before he takes off the inner layers. Once I know more about this process I will publish the results as well. Maybe somebody else knows more about this issue..
R
Reto
Sounds very interesting. Especially the part on smoking the bark over an oven to take out the inner layer....
(PS:.....in Germany :wink: ...you know, when you make omelette, you got to break some eggs.......)
Greetings & Salaam
Sounds very interesting. Especially the part on smoking the bark over an oven to take out the inner layer....
(PS:.....in Germany :wink: ...you know, when you make omelette, you got to break some eggs.......)
Greetings & Salaam
True, Jack.
Hi all,
I don't know exactly why seawater were used for a such long period, I think pliability was in issue, but you can simply boil birchbark in salted water for some hours and apply it when it's hot and wet with a hide glue, like some tribes of Russian North and Siberia did. They boiled corewood in some cases too.
Max
I don't know exactly why seawater were used for a such long period, I think pliability was in issue, but you can simply boil birchbark in salted water for some hours and apply it when it's hot and wet with a hide glue, like some tribes of Russian North and Siberia did. They boiled corewood in some cases too.
Max
Wild; Boiling wood is a fast, safe way to dry it! The heat breaks the cell walls but the water prevents it from cracking. This is also an old technique of chair makers in this country who want to dry small parts fast.
Thanks for that info. And we don't have to understand completely how something works to try it. Jack.
Thanks for that info. And we don't have to understand completely how something works to try it. Jack.
I want :wink:jack farrell wrote:
And we don't have to understand completely how something works to try it.
About boiling: - Innersells(?) liquid is a kind of syrup, with salts and sugars. After drying, water evaporates but most of salts are on the walls of sells as microcrystals. Boiling helps put them away. Maybe salted water can create osmotic effect?
But applying of hot and wet bark works - bark is more elastic this way, animal and PVA glues tested.
TTT