How to make glue gel slower

Hot room prevent the glue get gells but it is very hard to work for backing. Add the fish glue or gelatine ,it helps.

Cem

Did you use the finnish sauna for glueing?

it is very hard to work for backing

Assumption
"it is hard to do gluing work in such hot temperature".

Glueing did not take overly long time sorter than typical sauna visit, perhaps 10 minutes. I was sweating somewhat, but probably I think I did not drop any sweat into glue or glued surfaces. (sweat contains salt and therefore is not good for glue.)

I was wearing only underpants to protect my privates from glue and head lamp for illumination. ( 8) no picture, sorry :oops: )

it is very hard to work for backing

Assumption
"The temperature is not good for core wood or belly horn"
The wood did not heat up enough to be hot to handle, so it did not lose any bent reflex. Same thing with horn. Wood has been bent in boiling water and horn in elecrtic oven in 140 ?C. Gloves were needed when doing those things, now I did not need them.


And how to get such a room temperature:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sauna

yes :D

Add thin glue to the joint as you proceed. Capillary action will draw it in. Continue to heat the bow over a heat source to keep glue active. If you use the rubber strip method, heat can be applied easily on a spot method even just after glue up.

I have been giving myself the same problem by not being willing to buy the sturgeon glue. I've been using pure hide glue for glueing the horn, but one certainly has to hurry a lot to be able to fit the horn before the glue gells.

A small "tent" that could be put the work bench and do the glueing inside could perhaps be a solution. Heating the whole room is really not an alternative for me.

I have not found any commercial source for reasonably priced bladder glue. Perhaps others have?


Would it be an acceptable solution to use strong spring clamps along the horn first, and then replace them one after one with C-clamps after the horn has been fitted? I suppose it would work alright as long as the glue line does not open while replacing the spring clamps with C-clamps. The fit between the horn and core would probably have to be better though.

Kviljo, like i wrote somwhere in Atarn about glues-not only Sturgeon glue is good. Koreans dont work vith sturgeon too. You was from sea country vith big fishing potential ! If you litlle try i believe you must find good fish bladers -or skin - source!
Because i believe that big comercial "sturgeon glue " fabrics mixed not only pure sturgeon bladers , but skin -or maybe another parts too...
Mi friend Jano Nagy was more scientist than me and make some tests vith diferent fish skins and another part of fish body. I cant public demonstrat his finds, but i can say that fish skin give good glue for slow gelling.
I have very good experiences vith sweet water bladers too.
But one fact i must say - i dont work vith comon skin glue... All mi glues are from miself cleaning and cooking work.

Jkekoni, it?s a shame that you didn?t take any pictures ;-)

JJ

Hmm, it is interesting what you say about the fish skin glue, Dusan. I have used liquid fish skin glue for wooden bows (both commercial and self made), and it works fine at those stress-levels. It is perhaps a little more brittle than the hide glue. I have also mixed some in with hide glue to get longer glueing time, but those horn bows failed - although perhaps of other reasons.

However, Adam wrote that the commercial liquid fish skin glue is not to be used for horn bows.

I ought to be able to find some bladders around here, but I am not sure if I will be able to find the time to do it.

Check out the Korean Hornbow tape. The bow maker goes bsck to the heat and keeps regluing during the process. I do not think that no matter how good the fit is that the glue up can be done without adding heat during the process.

Just experiment on some scrap pieces. 3 or 5 minutes should not upset the process. It is not a race. You need a perfect glue up and technique. I find all those clamps inhibit the process.

You might be thrilled to see that when you want to improve the glue up, you slowly heat the work over a gas stove (very low) and glue slowly beads up and oozes out of the seam for a better fit, the inner tube strips taking up the slack with no adjustment.

Pearl glue is just fine.

JJ, I thought you were married.

the original glue has a limit performance , add something to glue works well, the alum can let glue gel slowy if hot the glue it lost gel performance full, so you add A to glue also need add B ,then B need C and D, maybe the C and D has virulence damage your health

Kviljo, you should get to know some Finns in your area. Surely some-one has sauna.

Failing that you should use local public swimming pool sauna (do they have them, at least some simhall in sweden do ?( but they are not properly heated) ). I mean they cannot have surveilance cameras there for 2 reasons. :P

And yes heating a room not designed for that to 100 degrees is not recommended.

Seriously I have heard that some North american indian tribes have had tent sauna's.

Bladders of fish are not that hard to find. The cheapest source may be a caviar producer (sturgeon farm), who may be willing to sell frozen bladders he has no market for. Salt water fish, particularly the species from colder regions have useable bladders, giving the slowest gelling (or even non-gelling at room temps) glue. This glue can be added to hide glue or tendon glue in smaller amounts. I used hake and cod bladders that way a few times.

However, manipulating the properties of glue with chemicals is definitely not a good idea. The glue may be liquid, but it will be brittle and weaker.

A good source of local heat is a heat lamp or a radiant heater above the work area.

Adam

I was wearing only underpants to protect my privates from glue and head lamp for illumination. ( no picture, sorry )

Thats the funniest vision i've had in a long time! I like your style though - get the job done no matter what!