Turkish bow advice
Hello this is my first bow after my long pause.I made the core at the kasan eye too thick(and the kasan too thin) so the bow bends a little in the kasan area.It works fine and I don't think it will cause problem,but it hasn't the prettiest shape and it's not ideal for energy storage.Do you advice to add some sinew(about 1mm) on the kasan ridge,or to leave the bow as it is?The bow is about 59-60#@29",120cm long ntn.Thank you in advance.
P.S.I reached my maximum upload quota limit,I can't add pictures.What I have to do?
Francesco
P.S.I reached my maximum upload quota limit,I can't add pictures.What I have to do?
Francesco
Francisco; Glad to see you back after so long. Have always enjoyed your bows.
About uploading a picture, look above and click on member list. Find your name and it will say "User attachment control panel" Click there to review. Delete some attachments to lower your expenditure.
No need to make huge attachments which eat up your quota.
I will let others knowledgeable on Turkish bows comment on your bow.
About uploading a picture, look above and click on member list. Find your name and it will say "User attachment control panel" Click there to review. Delete some attachments to lower your expenditure.
No need to make huge attachments which eat up your quota.
I will let others knowledgeable on Turkish bows comment on your bow.
Hi Francesco,
welcome back!
From your discription i would add sinew on kasan ridge (only on the ridge, fadeout 5mm wide each side), start with 1mm after kasan eye up to 3mm to tipbase, if the whole kasan bends.
I am waiting for your pictures!
Peter
welcome back!
From your discription i would add sinew on kasan ridge (only on the ridge, fadeout 5mm wide each side), start with 1mm after kasan eye up to 3mm to tipbase, if the whole kasan bends.
I am waiting for your pictures!
Peter
Hi Jack,hi Peter,I'm glad to be back.In the picture the bow is drawn to 28".
Francesco
Francesco
It has too much string follow,maybe because I waited less than three months.
Hi Francesco,
the shape of the unbraced bow looks fine!
Half of the Kasan is total straight, when unbraced?! I am a Greenhorn in bow making, but to avoid deflex bending of Kasan and store more energy in sal, adding sinew, as I discribed above (1 to 3mm more when dry!), is one possible solution.
Hope this helps. Keep us updated.
the shape of the unbraced bow looks fine!
Half of the Kasan is total straight, when unbraced?! I am a Greenhorn in bow making, but to avoid deflex bending of Kasan and store more energy in sal, adding sinew, as I discribed above (1 to 3mm more when dry!), is one possible solution.
Hope this helps. Keep us updated.
Hi Alessi,
I do not advise to add the snew layer in kasan for your bow , snew layer do not accept the glue well and it can be a problem after a long time. Backing accept the glue well only snew and glue wet and fresh.
Maybe you can attach 1-2 mm thick horn to kasan and wrapped with snew.
Cem
I do not advise to add the snew layer in kasan for your bow , snew layer do not accept the glue well and it can be a problem after a long time. Backing accept the glue well only snew and glue wet and fresh.
Maybe you can attach 1-2 mm thick horn to kasan and wrapped with snew.
Cem
Francesco,
I agree this solution Cem did, too. If you do this, I would give the kasan a little recurve bend.
Cem,
I never had sinew delaminaton problems, but I had with gluing wood to horn. Maybe we should work together - you glue horn to wood, I do sinewing :lol: Just a joke!
One of my bows had a too weak kasan eye section; I sand it with 100 paper, took wet (destilled water) sponge, wiped it light 2, 3 times, waiting 20 - 30 seconds between each wiping, until it was sticky - directly brushed very thin hot glue and then layed, in thick glue soaked, sinew. With the rounded back of a comb I sqeezed out, from mid to end of sinew left an right with some pressure, the surplus glue and last brushed a lot thick hot glue on it. And this after 4 months drying! I had no problem, bounding was very good!
Unfortunatelly, during tillering the bow, I was one second not careful, I ignored a side bending of one limb and the bow exploded on tillering tree near full draw - the horn and wood was broken, but sinew layers hold, even on broken wood.
But, as mentioned above, I am a Greenhorn! I respect your knowledge like law. Perhaps, I had only the luck of a beginner.
Peter
I agree this solution Cem did, too. If you do this, I would give the kasan a little recurve bend.
Cem,
I never had sinew delaminaton problems, but I had with gluing wood to horn. Maybe we should work together - you glue horn to wood, I do sinewing :lol: Just a joke!
One of my bows had a too weak kasan eye section; I sand it with 100 paper, took wet (destilled water) sponge, wiped it light 2, 3 times, waiting 20 - 30 seconds between each wiping, until it was sticky - directly brushed very thin hot glue and then layed, in thick glue soaked, sinew. With the rounded back of a comb I sqeezed out, from mid to end of sinew left an right with some pressure, the surplus glue and last brushed a lot thick hot glue on it. And this after 4 months drying! I had no problem, bounding was very good!
Unfortunatelly, during tillering the bow, I was one second not careful, I ignored a side bending of one limb and the bow exploded on tillering tree near full draw - the horn and wood was broken, but sinew layers hold, even on broken wood.
But, as mentioned above, I am a Greenhorn! I respect your knowledge like law. Perhaps, I had only the luck of a beginner.
Peter
Kyuduhund:
I mean it is possible gluing snew to snew after a long time, it works but dangerous , especially for strong bows. After a long time, new snew layer's glue shrink . The problem is volume difference . So snew can delaminate-crack in full draw and wood and horn can explode , but snew not , because it is more elastic .
I would be very happy to work together :)
Cem
I mean it is possible gluing snew to snew after a long time, it works but dangerous , especially for strong bows. After a long time, new snew layer's glue shrink . The problem is volume difference . So snew can delaminate-crack in full draw and wood and horn can explode , but snew not , because it is more elastic .
I would be very happy to work together :)
Cem
Update.Added about 1mm of sinew on the ridge of kasan,now the bow is slightly better.61#@29"
I think I will not modify it any further.
Cem,I didn't have any problems gluing fresh sinew on an old layer:maybe because my bows are not very strong.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
Bye
Francesco
I think I will not modify it any further.
Cem,I didn't have any problems gluing fresh sinew on an old layer:maybe because my bows are not very strong.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
Bye
Francesco