Korean Hornbow Project
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Hi everybody,I forgot to introduce myself,sorry for that!
My name is Stefan and after making selfbows for a while,hornbows
became my absolut passion.Among all tipes of hornbows my favorites
are the korean and the turk.
I?d call myself an autodidact, what sometimes means that you make a
lot of mistakes and so I did!
I?ve got all my knowledge from youtube and atarn and I often found it
hard, to be learning just by watching and reading. Anyway....it?s good
to be here now and I guess I?ll learn and prosper!
The bow on the first two pics is made out of bamboo(core),laminated maple (siyahs),maple (handle) ,waterb.horn and has got already two layers of ostrich sinew ,two pieces of sinew on each.For that bow I?ll
have to wait until x-mas. The other bow is the same exept the siyahs:
they are made from laminated black locust/pseudoacacia.In earlier days I
steambent the siyahs but I had trouble with it because they started to
re-bend under stress.The blue bow?s got 3 layers of ostrich sinew,
7 pieces of sinew together.It draws 56lbs/28.When I noticed that the
steambent siyahs started to re-bend,I took them out with a japanese
saw and substituted them by the laminated locust-siyahs and glued two
thin pieces of maple on top and belly of the splice and finally wrapped it.
It?s far away from a masterpiece but it shots very well and quick and I?m
still a greenhorn and have to develop... every post welcome...
greetings Stefan
2. http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads ... rv57hd.jpg
3. http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads ... bw0xfk.jpg
4. http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads ... pou3fi.jpg
5. http://img3.fotos-hochladen.net/uploads ... ajc7ws.jpg
Hi everybody,I forgot to introduce myself,sorry for that!
My name is Stefan and after making selfbows for a while,hornbows
became my absolut passion.Among all tipes of hornbows my favorites
are the korean and the turk.
I?d call myself an autodidact, what sometimes means that you make a
lot of mistakes and so I did!
I?ve got all my knowledge from youtube and atarn and I often found it
hard, to be learning just by watching and reading. Anyway....it?s good
to be here now and I guess I?ll learn and prosper!
The bow on the first two pics is made out of bamboo(core),laminated maple (siyahs),maple (handle) ,waterb.horn and has got already two layers of ostrich sinew ,two pieces of sinew on each.For that bow I?ll
have to wait until x-mas. The other bow is the same exept the siyahs:
they are made from laminated black locust/pseudoacacia.In earlier days I
steambent the siyahs but I had trouble with it because they started to
re-bend under stress.The blue bow?s got 3 layers of ostrich sinew,
7 pieces of sinew together.It draws 56lbs/28.When I noticed that the
steambent siyahs started to re-bend,I took them out with a japanese
saw and substituted them by the laminated locust-siyahs and glued two
thin pieces of maple on top and belly of the splice and finally wrapped it.
It?s far away from a masterpiece but it shots very well and quick and I?m
still a greenhorn and have to develop... every post welcome...
greetings Stefan
Stefan; That is a very respectable looking bow! If it is any consolation to you, I was visiting with a Korean bowyer once. He sent his helper out to get a heat bent siyah blank which he stores in a tied position for TWO YEARS before using. A pseudoacacia one.
It would be difficult to reproduce the exact shape of their bow tip without holding a prototype. This is their scroll on the violin.
It would be difficult to reproduce the exact shape of their bow tip without holding a prototype. This is their scroll on the violin.
Very well done with that bow - great first effort!
Where did you get the ostrich sinews?
Where did you get the ostrich sinews?
Thanks a lot,Jack and Mike!
Mike ,there?s an austrian/german company ,now called Dictum GmbH,
former Dick GmbH ,that sells fine tools and material.They started recently
to provide the bowyer scene with horn ,sinew and more,Iget a lot of good
stuff there!
Mike ,there?s an austrian/german company ,now called Dictum GmbH,
former Dick GmbH ,that sells fine tools and material.They started recently
to provide the bowyer scene with horn ,sinew and more,Iget a lot of good
stuff there!
Hallo Stefan,
tolles Teil! Gratuliere!
Peter
tolles Teil! Gratuliere!
Peter
Vielen Dank Peter!
Ich finde deine B?gen auch ganz toll und w?sste zu gerne,wie so einer schie?t ! Ich mach jetzt in english weiter.....
Did you ever try flightshooting...results? How long do you wait,before you apply the next layer,how long before you string the bow the first time?
What kind of cover do you prefere,any pics with a finished bow?
Thanks in advance...Stefan
Ich finde deine B?gen auch ganz toll und w?sste zu gerne,wie so einer schie?t ! Ich mach jetzt in english weiter.....
Did you ever try flightshooting...results? How long do you wait,before you apply the next layer,how long before you string the bow the first time?
What kind of cover do you prefere,any pics with a finished bow?
Thanks in advance...Stefan
Nice start.I think its not only your first , but Atarn first Korean hornbow repro.
Hi Stefan,
primarily i am a targetshooter, so i have no experience in flightshooting. For this my bows shoot acceptable. I like the dampingcharacter of these bows. Until now i have not measured the arrowspeed, but subjective the arrows are fast.
I do 3, rarely 4 layers of sinew, depending on the strength of the bow. Between the layers i wait 2 - 6 weeks. 5 - 6 months after laying the last, i start to open the bow with the asa gezi, step by step, and let it rest 7 - 10 days with complete straight sals, before using the tepliks.
The whole back, grip and ~ 1/2 of kasan on belly is covered with parchment/drumskin, 0,2 mm thick. The narrow sidestripes, the small piece at end of kasanbelly and nock, is deerskin, the one used for carwash. It?s thicker and protects edges and sides better against damage.
On the picture below, you can see it, because of the different colours.
primarily i am a targetshooter, so i have no experience in flightshooting. For this my bows shoot acceptable. I like the dampingcharacter of these bows. Until now i have not measured the arrowspeed, but subjective the arrows are fast.
I do 3, rarely 4 layers of sinew, depending on the strength of the bow. Between the layers i wait 2 - 6 weeks. 5 - 6 months after laying the last, i start to open the bow with the asa gezi, step by step, and let it rest 7 - 10 days with complete straight sals, before using the tepliks.
The whole back, grip and ~ 1/2 of kasan on belly is covered with parchment/drumskin, 0,2 mm thick. The narrow sidestripes, the small piece at end of kasanbelly and nock, is deerskin, the one used for carwash. It?s thicker and protects edges and sides better against damage.
On the picture below, you can see it, because of the different colours.
Peter, thank you so much for your quick and detailed response!
You appear to me like a real expert and, above all ,a very patient man!
I used to finish my bows within 2 month, I really should add some time!
Poly merisation seems to be an important factor here.
Impressive bow at your picture! One can almost feel its strength and
tension by the look and its symmetry is simply perfect.I?m not familiar
with the turkish idioms,is the recurved part=kasan? Anyway,it seems to
me that this bow is quite strongly recurved for a turk,if you?d go down
with the braceheight,the string would touch the limbs,that happened to one of my turkish stiled bows as well.Peter ,only two questions left:
What do you use to glue the parchment/leather and how long does it rest
Whatever kind of cover I tried to glue with hideglue,after a couple of w it suffered from cracks and loosing,you got some advise ?
Dusan,no its not my first bow! Regards ....Stefan
You appear to me like a real expert and, above all ,a very patient man!
I used to finish my bows within 2 month, I really should add some time!
Poly merisation seems to be an important factor here.
Impressive bow at your picture! One can almost feel its strength and
tension by the look and its symmetry is simply perfect.I?m not familiar
with the turkish idioms,is the recurved part=kasan? Anyway,it seems to
me that this bow is quite strongly recurved for a turk,if you?d go down
with the braceheight,the string would touch the limbs,that happened to one of my turkish stiled bows as well.Peter ,only two questions left:
What do you use to glue the parchment/leather and how long does it rest
Whatever kind of cover I tried to glue with hideglue,after a couple of w it suffered from cracks and loosing,you got some advise ?
Dusan,no its not my first bow! Regards ....Stefan
Stefan,
have a look at the topic "Turkish puta bow". You can see details of progress.
Patience i learned from failures i did building a bow, as well as during tillering it. Its not worth to hurry, to much work can be ruined in a second.
The recurve is tip, kasan, kasan-eye and few cm sal-end. Kasan is roundish recurved, so i used stringbridges made of bone; the string now rests 3 mm above kasan-belly.
I made very good experience with this kind of covering; only few small cracks on the edges in sal-area. After cutting the parts, which is very easy because drumskin is stiff, soak in cold(!) water and press the whole piece with the fingers until it changes from white to translucent. Now its 5 times thicker, soft and elastic (don?t put in hot water, it shrinks!). Wrap in a towel with light preasure to get out surplus water. I take a mixture of hide- and fishbladderglue, brush it on skin and bow and start at tip -> fix with needles! From kasan-end to grip its very easy job. Squeeze out airbubbles (you can see it under the translucent skin!) with a roller or backside of a comb. On skin put glue only on the side glued to the bow; on the outer side it can cause trouble with decorationcolour, if thinned with water. After drying, it returns to its original thickness. Latest after 3 days you can brace the bow.
I everytime am astonished about this material. I tried this first, only soaked with water, on a filegrip. After drying it held the form 1:1.
Hope this helps
Peter
have a look at the topic "Turkish puta bow". You can see details of progress.
Patience i learned from failures i did building a bow, as well as during tillering it. Its not worth to hurry, to much work can be ruined in a second.
The recurve is tip, kasan, kasan-eye and few cm sal-end. Kasan is roundish recurved, so i used stringbridges made of bone; the string now rests 3 mm above kasan-belly.
I made very good experience with this kind of covering; only few small cracks on the edges in sal-area. After cutting the parts, which is very easy because drumskin is stiff, soak in cold(!) water and press the whole piece with the fingers until it changes from white to translucent. Now its 5 times thicker, soft and elastic (don?t put in hot water, it shrinks!). Wrap in a towel with light preasure to get out surplus water. I take a mixture of hide- and fishbladderglue, brush it on skin and bow and start at tip -> fix with needles! From kasan-end to grip its very easy job. Squeeze out airbubbles (you can see it under the translucent skin!) with a roller or backside of a comb. On skin put glue only on the side glued to the bow; on the outer side it can cause trouble with decorationcolour, if thinned with water. After drying, it returns to its original thickness. Latest after 3 days you can brace the bow.
I everytime am astonished about this material. I tried this first, only soaked with water, on a filegrip. After drying it held the form 1:1.
Hope this helps
Peter
Looks absolutely great.
I would call any asian composite that survives full draw to be master piece. It is stunning piece of crafmanship, even compared to typical hornbow. That one has even harder reflex than a typical t?rkish type one. It is easy to see that it is korean and not t?rkish style.
Historical accuray of the details, such as bending ears and korean style handles and such are better evaluated by people who understand and value such things.
I would call any asian composite that survives full draw to be master piece. It is stunning piece of crafmanship, even compared to typical hornbow. That one has even harder reflex than a typical t?rkish type one. It is easy to see that it is korean and not t?rkish style.
Historical accuray of the details, such as bending ears and korean style handles and such are better evaluated by people who understand and value such things.
Just a short one...too much skill for the beginner.Excellent!!!!
Peter,that was a super support,I think, that really gives me a kick! Thank you!
Thank you,too,Jkekoni and Zoran for your warm words!
Jkekoni,that?s true, I?m not(yet) making replicas and I like to modify and
to experiment but the character has to be typical.
Stefan
Thank you,too,Jkekoni and Zoran for your warm words!
Jkekoni,that?s true, I?m not(yet) making replicas and I like to modify and
to experiment but the character has to be typical.
Stefan
http://atarn.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=524&highlight=
http://atarn.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=315&highlight=
http://atarn.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=170&highlight=
Not the first Korean hornbow project but the first we've seen braced! So refreshing to see something other than Turkish reproductions.
Great work Stefan, I can't wait to see how your others turn out.
http://atarn.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=315&highlight=
http://atarn.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=170&highlight=
Not the first Korean hornbow project but the first we've seen braced! So refreshing to see something other than Turkish reproductions.
Great work Stefan, I can't wait to see how your others turn out.
Thank you Orda,I also wish we could see more braced koreans,maybe from
Wolfhorn,Samuraiworrior and Reto ?schger!
Wolfhorn,Samuraiworrior and Reto ?schger!