Gold decoration on arrows
Hi all
need some help. I am preparing a new set of Ottoman war arrows. I would like to decorate them with real gold as it was done. I have done arrows before with acrylic paint but it just doesnt give the same shine as museum arrows which are hundreds of years old.
In a museum were Iranian calligraphy and miniatures were explained they showed in a video how they used gum arabic and gold leaves to make gold paint. the lady put a little bit of gum arabic, then put the gold leave on top and started mixing in circular moves with the thumb.
I tried the exact same method but did not succeed. You really need gold powder for this.
Can anybody give me quick advice?
thanks a lot
Gokmen
need some help. I am preparing a new set of Ottoman war arrows. I would like to decorate them with real gold as it was done. I have done arrows before with acrylic paint but it just doesnt give the same shine as museum arrows which are hundreds of years old.
In a museum were Iranian calligraphy and miniatures were explained they showed in a video how they used gum arabic and gold leaves to make gold paint. the lady put a little bit of gum arabic, then put the gold leave on top and started mixing in circular moves with the thumb.
I tried the exact same method but did not succeed. You really need gold powder for this.
Can anybody give me quick advice?
thanks a lot
Gokmen
dont know if this is what you mean but:
you can order real gold - laquer from Kremer.
http://www.kremer-pigmente.com/de/blatt ... 98446.html
-> let sediment for 1-3 days, then remove the supernatant
-> you get a lot of real gold powder with minimal residues of the solvent
(and can even wash it further)
you can then use the powder for your own solvent (I used Shellac)
:wink:
you can order real gold - laquer from Kremer.
http://www.kremer-pigmente.com/de/blatt ... 98446.html
-> let sediment for 1-3 days, then remove the supernatant
-> you get a lot of real gold powder with minimal residues of the solvent
(and can even wash it further)
you can then use the powder for your own solvent (I used Shellac)
:wink:
Go to an art store. Buy real gold leaf and the sizing used with it. Sizing is a kind of varnish. Make a sample. Sand down a shaft until it is very smooth using several fine sandpapers. With a small, soft brush apply sizing to the area where the gold is wanted. Wait one hour or more till it is completely dry. Put the gold leaf between two pieces of paper and cut with scissors to save gold and make the right size. Roll the shaft over the gold. Use a woman's fluffy makeup brush to pat down the gold onto the sizing. Pat it down good. The gold will only stick to the sizing.
Let it dry again one day. Use the fluffy brush to polish the gold softly. Paint the sizing over the gold. Wait one day. Paint over again. This protects the gold from damage. You can now paint colors over the gold if you want. The bright gold is now permanent. No gold treatment is superior.
Let it dry again one day. Use the fluffy brush to polish the gold softly. Paint the sizing over the gold. Wait one day. Paint over again. This protects the gold from damage. You can now paint colors over the gold if you want. The bright gold is now permanent. No gold treatment is superior.
I understand you plan to use the traditional technique with powdered gold. Unfortunately, the "powdered" gold from stores is not fine enough for this work. The gold leaf has to be ground by hand (thumb or palm) for quite a long time - min an hour, it took me about 3 hours to achieve sufficient dispersion. A little water is added to the gum solution or honey from time to time as it dries. The tiny flakes of ground gold should float freely and follow the brush and be small enough to give a clean line. The gold is then washed a couple of times in water to get rid of the gum or honey. For use, it is mixed with very thin (5%) hide glue.
The powdered gold works very well on porous supports with some "tooth", such as paper or leather, where the powder is held in the pores for good density. It will also work well on porous paints, but not on glossy varnish coats. Ottoman arrows were decorated with paints based on hide glue as the binder (mixed with dry pigment), so the paint should be porous enough, unless the glue is too concentrated. Once the gold paint has dried, it is rubbed with a stone or animal tooth to polish (jade burnishers can be bought as well).
It is a real art to do calligraphy or decoration well. Anita Chowdry gives courses in Persian calligraphy at the British Museum - perhaps it may be the closest to you.
Adam
The powdered gold works very well on porous supports with some "tooth", such as paper or leather, where the powder is held in the pores for good density. It will also work well on porous paints, but not on glossy varnish coats. Ottoman arrows were decorated with paints based on hide glue as the binder (mixed with dry pigment), so the paint should be porous enough, unless the glue is too concentrated. Once the gold paint has dried, it is rubbed with a stone or animal tooth to polish (jade burnishers can be bought as well).
It is a real art to do calligraphy or decoration well. Anita Chowdry gives courses in Persian calligraphy at the British Museum - perhaps it may be the closest to you.
Adam