Finishing, varnishes, colours in oriental arrows
Hello,
In the prototype I'm making I'm going very slow because of a painted decoration that dry slowly. I wandered what kind of materials could be used in ancient arrows and if we have enough informations (I think that pictures and varnishes, with fletching, is the first thing that is damaged).
The fletching area was often coloured/decored: lacquer was often used, or it is documented only on japanese/korean arrows?
And what kind of finish was applied on shafts? Oil, wax based or shell lack perhaps? I have used shell lack (lightly colored) while the shaft turning in a lathe, and a modern lacquer for the fletching area. I attach some images of the work.
Thanks for any help
Greetings
Gianrico
In the prototype I'm making I'm going very slow because of a painted decoration that dry slowly. I wandered what kind of materials could be used in ancient arrows and if we have enough informations (I think that pictures and varnishes, with fletching, is the first thing that is damaged).
The fletching area was often coloured/decored: lacquer was often used, or it is documented only on japanese/korean arrows?
And what kind of finish was applied on shafts? Oil, wax based or shell lack perhaps? I have used shell lack (lightly colored) while the shaft turning in a lathe, and a modern lacquer for the fletching area. I attach some images of the work.
Thanks for any help
Greetings
Gianrico
Coloured shell lack
with the unmounted feathers (dyied goose). The point is a standard field point (125 gr.).
Gianrico:
According to the researcher who was the source of technical info for Karlsruhe collection catalogue, the binder used for paints on arrows was simply a kind of hide glue. It makes sense, since the flechings would stick to such paint with no problems. I suppose fish glue was used too, I believe the analytical techniques used would not allow to tell the difference between the glues.
The arrows would be waterproofed somehow, probably with wax, but I think oil or oil/resin varnish could be used as well.
Adam
According to the researcher who was the source of technical info for Karlsruhe collection catalogue, the binder used for paints on arrows was simply a kind of hide glue. It makes sense, since the flechings would stick to such paint with no problems. I suppose fish glue was used too, I believe the analytical techniques used would not allow to tell the difference between the glues.
The arrows would be waterproofed somehow, probably with wax, but I think oil or oil/resin varnish could be used as well.
Adam
Adam,
What do you think of the use of shellac or one of the resins in the sandarac family? There is some evidence for this on old book bindings from Persia. Saracen Archery describes lacquering a bow with sandarac after applying a process akin to marbling.
Personally, I have not had much success yet with either.
What do you think of the use of shellac or one of the resins in the sandarac family? There is some evidence for this on old book bindings from Persia. Saracen Archery describes lacquering a bow with sandarac after applying a process akin to marbling.
Personally, I have not had much success yet with either.
Bede:
Have you read my article in the JSA-A about Islamic bow varnishes and paints? I explain the process and the meaning of the Saracen Archery text in detail there.
Shellac would be used too, but in later bows, prob. from 18thc. Sandarac was combined with oils, if used at all. "Sandarac" can be considered a generic term for most tree resins in the context of the varnish/paint technology.
The hide glue *for arrows* is economical and efficient. Cheap, durable (when waterproofed) and dries fast as the binder for paints.
Adam
Have you read my article in the JSA-A about Islamic bow varnishes and paints? I explain the process and the meaning of the Saracen Archery text in detail there.
Shellac would be used too, but in later bows, prob. from 18thc. Sandarac was combined with oils, if used at all. "Sandarac" can be considered a generic term for most tree resins in the context of the varnish/paint technology.
The hide glue *for arrows* is economical and efficient. Cheap, durable (when waterproofed) and dries fast as the binder for paints.
Adam
Adam,
I did read your article and I thought it was the best coverage of the subject I had seen.
My Chinese painter friends sometimes used mineral pigments in glue in a similar fashion.
I did read your article and I thought it was the best coverage of the subject I had seen.
My Chinese painter friends sometimes used mineral pigments in glue in a similar fashion.
Hey,
If I?ve to paint my bows and arrows I use earth-pigments solved in hot water with a bit of hideglue as a binder and to make it scratch-resistant.To make the paintings water-resistant I use natural resins.
Anyway I don?t like to shoot my bows when it is wet weather.
If I?ve to paint on bamboo I?ve to sand the outer hard layer of the bamboo,otherwise the hideglue could not stick together with the bamboo.
If I?ve to paint my bows and arrows I use earth-pigments solved in hot water with a bit of hideglue as a binder and to make it scratch-resistant.To make the paintings water-resistant I use natural resins.
Anyway I don?t like to shoot my bows when it is wet weather.
If I?ve to paint on bamboo I?ve to sand the outer hard layer of the bamboo,otherwise the hideglue could not stick together with the bamboo.
Thankk you Adam and Redhawk for your answers (a little late in mine because of technical black out in the last 2-3 days).
Adam: I will try to find your article. A technical question: hide glue doesn't risk to bend the shaft? It must be used very thinned with water?
I'm referring to my experience of painting board, glue-based primer have this problem, they bend the board. This is why oil-based primer mixture has progressively replaced them (since beginning of oil painting, XIV-XV c.)
I was thinking to try the urushi, obviously for "special series" arrow, not for daily shooting ones.
Do you think this could be a good idea? I read a short description writted by Thomas Duvernay about korean arrows, it mentions "lacquer" which is apllied in the fletching area, but no more details on this.
Thanks for your opinions/tips/hints
Greetings
Gianrico
Adam: I will try to find your article. A technical question: hide glue doesn't risk to bend the shaft? It must be used very thinned with water?
I'm referring to my experience of painting board, glue-based primer have this problem, they bend the board. This is why oil-based primer mixture has progressively replaced them (since beginning of oil painting, XIV-XV c.)
I was thinking to try the urushi, obviously for "special series" arrow, not for daily shooting ones.
Do you think this could be a good idea? I read a short description writted by Thomas Duvernay about korean arrows, it mentions "lacquer" which is apllied in the fletching area, but no more details on this.
Thanks for your opinions/tips/hints
Greetings
Gianrico
Gianrico:
Do not worry about bending, or rather warping. The process is rather different in the case of wooden boards. Besides, you will paint around the shaft, so the forces involved (swelling and contraction) are equalized.
Good luck
Adam
Do not worry about bending, or rather warping. The process is rather different in the case of wooden boards. Besides, you will paint around the shaft, so the forces involved (swelling and contraction) are equalized.
Good luck
Adam
Adam:
OK thanks, I will try it.
Best regards
Gianrico
OK thanks, I will try it.
Best regards
Gianrico
Just to show the finished arrow... this time I used modern lacquer and coloured shell lack, but for next series I will use hide glue with pigments.
Details: I used silk thread soaked in hide glue, fletching is cutted using a copper plate shaped to that profile.
Greetings
Gianrico
Details: I used silk thread soaked in hide glue, fletching is cutted using a copper plate shaped to that profile.
Greetings
Gianrico
Dyied goose feathers