Getting started
So, I'm completely new to archery in general and I'm jumping in with both feet. Unfortunately I am a complete stickler when it comes to foundation technique, looking at what the finished and reverse engineering from there while focusing only on the aspects that are relevant.
I've been looking through posts on the board here about traditional Turkish archery and have been coming up a little empty handed in my questions so I'll ask here, where it seems we have THE authority(plural) on the subject (you know who you are). I'm not really interested in flight shooting, but mainly in target shooting in preparation for hunting. Although I'm currently using a generic 25# bow, my goal is to reach near perfect technique with a 70# Turkish bow in 5 years. Multiple shots fired at speed will of course be a factor.
1) Stance- I know that Turkish archery has several abnormal stances (kneeling, backwards, open, etc) but what would be a hands down beginner stance to start training with for thumb draw to an anchor point of either ear or mouth? Should I start with a completely perpendicular to the target face or would something closer to a boxing stance be better? And what about the feet? front foot pointed at the target and rear foot parallel to the target face? The same for the hips and shoulders.
2) I know in some Asiatic traditions you draw the bow from above your line of sight, with your bow arm straight, and using your back muscles pull the bow down while drawing your string arm back to your anchor point. How is the bow properly drawn in the Turkish tradition taking into account a 70# draw weight?
Thank you in advance for you feedback.
Sincerely,
Affaraon
I've been looking through posts on the board here about traditional Turkish archery and have been coming up a little empty handed in my questions so I'll ask here, where it seems we have THE authority(plural) on the subject (you know who you are). I'm not really interested in flight shooting, but mainly in target shooting in preparation for hunting. Although I'm currently using a generic 25# bow, my goal is to reach near perfect technique with a 70# Turkish bow in 5 years. Multiple shots fired at speed will of course be a factor.
1) Stance- I know that Turkish archery has several abnormal stances (kneeling, backwards, open, etc) but what would be a hands down beginner stance to start training with for thumb draw to an anchor point of either ear or mouth? Should I start with a completely perpendicular to the target face or would something closer to a boxing stance be better? And what about the feet? front foot pointed at the target and rear foot parallel to the target face? The same for the hips and shoulders.
2) I know in some Asiatic traditions you draw the bow from above your line of sight, with your bow arm straight, and using your back muscles pull the bow down while drawing your string arm back to your anchor point. How is the bow properly drawn in the Turkish tradition taking into account a 70# draw weight?
Thank you in advance for you feedback.
Sincerely,
Affaraon
Hi Affaraon,
according to the old treatises, you should choose your stance according to your body type. Tall and thin - sideways stance; short and stocky - frontal stance; medium height, medium weight etc - oblique stance. The same rule (body shape decides technique variant) applies also to the way the grip is held and to the anchor point.
I think you would profit from reading this book which will answer a lot of your questions: http://www.thumbringarchery.org
Cheers
Arry
according to the old treatises, you should choose your stance according to your body type. Tall and thin - sideways stance; short and stocky - frontal stance; medium height, medium weight etc - oblique stance. The same rule (body shape decides technique variant) applies also to the way the grip is held and to the anchor point.
I think you would profit from reading this book which will answer a lot of your questions: http://www.thumbringarchery.org
Cheers
Arry
In answer to your questions, I can give some advice from personal experience.
1) Regarding stance, there are many theories in the old literature, but most are rationalisations of existing practice. If you think about it for a moment, is it better for a short person to use even a shorter draw and weaker stance than a taller person? The problems that the physiology explanation produces are numerous. If you are an average proportioned person, the appropriate stance would be left foot towards the target and right foot parallel to the shooting line. If you find it easy to turn your head far to the left, the standard Olympic stance will work. I think it is important to master one stance and then try another until you are completely comfortable shooting in any position. The various other stances are for particular circumstances like running away from an enemy or hiding behind a shield. The two basic approaches for target archery are standing and sitting (including squatting). Standing is the most universally applicable stance. Sitting is probably used as a training method so that you can shoot from odd places and fortifications. Shooting under the rope was likely to be a special form for sitting archers. Over the centuries the styles of shooting and types of contest have expanded to exploit the different stances.
2) Where do you start the draw? The old photographs show the bow hand at the level of the face approximately. It is likely the standard target draw was a level position procedure, but there is enough variation in the literature to support several other methods. Kani repeatedly quoted Taybugha (from Saracen Archery) so he may have thought that some of the techniques were still applicable. However, the technique in the photographs seems easy to follow: the left arm is extended towards the target and locked, the right fore arm from the elbow to the hand is on the same axis as the arrow, and the right arm is drawn back by the horizontal rotation of the shoulder joint bringing the hand towards the face. This is not the only way and may not be the best one for every person's build, but it is a good place to start.
I hope this gives you some ideas.
1) Regarding stance, there are many theories in the old literature, but most are rationalisations of existing practice. If you think about it for a moment, is it better for a short person to use even a shorter draw and weaker stance than a taller person? The problems that the physiology explanation produces are numerous. If you are an average proportioned person, the appropriate stance would be left foot towards the target and right foot parallel to the shooting line. If you find it easy to turn your head far to the left, the standard Olympic stance will work. I think it is important to master one stance and then try another until you are completely comfortable shooting in any position. The various other stances are for particular circumstances like running away from an enemy or hiding behind a shield. The two basic approaches for target archery are standing and sitting (including squatting). Standing is the most universally applicable stance. Sitting is probably used as a training method so that you can shoot from odd places and fortifications. Shooting under the rope was likely to be a special form for sitting archers. Over the centuries the styles of shooting and types of contest have expanded to exploit the different stances.
2) Where do you start the draw? The old photographs show the bow hand at the level of the face approximately. It is likely the standard target draw was a level position procedure, but there is enough variation in the literature to support several other methods. Kani repeatedly quoted Taybugha (from Saracen Archery) so he may have thought that some of the techniques were still applicable. However, the technique in the photographs seems easy to follow: the left arm is extended towards the target and locked, the right fore arm from the elbow to the hand is on the same axis as the arrow, and the right arm is drawn back by the horizontal rotation of the shoulder joint bringing the hand towards the face. This is not the only way and may not be the best one for every person's build, but it is a good place to start.
I hope this gives you some ideas.
First and foremost, thank you both for your replies and input.
@Arry. As of now I'm the proverbial "starving student" so purchasing anything that is not a necessity won't be happening for another 6 months or so. However, I have heard of this book (and have seen some videos of the author in action) and it is on my list among several others.
@Bede. seems pretty logical then.
Again, thank you. I hope this helps others as well.
@Arry. As of now I'm the proverbial "starving student" so purchasing anything that is not a necessity won't be happening for another 6 months or so. However, I have heard of this book (and have seen some videos of the author in action) and it is on my list among several others.
@Bede. seems pretty logical then.
Again, thank you. I hope this helps others as well.