Making First Bamboo Arrows EVER!
So...3 years ago I began my quest to make bamboo arrows.
I realized I couldn't get materials at the current situation I was in, so now all these years later I have finally committed and spent all the money that was necessary and bought everything you could imagine to make the perfect arrows.
A handy electric handheld wood-carving tool from home depot (makes shaping nocks a dream); Horn nocks; pre-straightened, heated, lacquered, weight and spine matched shafts; blk/white goose feathers; titebond 2 glue; (sinew is coming in the mail from 3rivers archery, along with points).
All that I need to get are ferules and paint.
Is enamel paint good? What is a good brand of paint since at my local store they didn't have any paint that would work on bamboo except oil paint.
Additionally, it is very hard to actually get brass tubing!! Home depot looked at my like I was crazy when I asked for some small enough for the shafts. https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.c ... top_cat=79 This is the website I will try to get the correct piping from.
As you all can tell, it is much more tedious to get the materials, in my opinion, than to actually assemble it all. (Though my attaching of the nocks to the shafts took a good three hours, considering I had to use my new hand tool to make each nock perfectly parallel to the shaft.)
So, here are my results. I will probably dedicate my next Saturday to painting or fletching.
I realized I couldn't get materials at the current situation I was in, so now all these years later I have finally committed and spent all the money that was necessary and bought everything you could imagine to make the perfect arrows.
A handy electric handheld wood-carving tool from home depot (makes shaping nocks a dream); Horn nocks; pre-straightened, heated, lacquered, weight and spine matched shafts; blk/white goose feathers; titebond 2 glue; (sinew is coming in the mail from 3rivers archery, along with points).
All that I need to get are ferules and paint.
Is enamel paint good? What is a good brand of paint since at my local store they didn't have any paint that would work on bamboo except oil paint.
Additionally, it is very hard to actually get brass tubing!! Home depot looked at my like I was crazy when I asked for some small enough for the shafts. https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.c ... top_cat=79 This is the website I will try to get the correct piping from.
As you all can tell, it is much more tedious to get the materials, in my opinion, than to actually assemble it all. (Though my attaching of the nocks to the shafts took a good three hours, considering I had to use my new hand tool to make each nock perfectly parallel to the shaft.)
So, here are my results. I will probably dedicate my next Saturday to painting or fletching.
What's the brass piping for?
Also you should check with your supplier what the shafts have been lacquered with. Usually it's a temporary varnish to protect the shafts during shipping, not good enough for use as arrows. The varnish will become opaque and ugly when fletching glue is applied and becomes sticky and attracts hay (I think the friction makes it melt/become glue).
Also you should check with your supplier what the shafts have been lacquered with. Usually it's a temporary varnish to protect the shafts during shipping, not good enough for use as arrows. The varnish will become opaque and ugly when fletching glue is applied and becomes sticky and attracts hay (I think the friction makes it melt/become glue).
I think the lacquer is good enough because Jack Farrell on here sandpapers off the lacquer where he paints and for the rest of the arrow he just leaves it alone; and he buys from the same supplier (Tiger aka stmmr....*don't know the full ebay name).
The piping is for a small reinforcement which I will put behind the arrowhead. If you look at some of the Mughal arrows on this site, you will see that they used metal, such as brass or bronze (same word for the Indians) to back up the points as opposed to sinew, which is torn up by the target with time.
The piping is for a small reinforcement which I will put behind the arrowhead. If you look at some of the Mughal arrows on this site, you will see that they used metal, such as brass or bronze (same word for the Indians) to back up the points as opposed to sinew, which is torn up by the target with time.
I use acrylic paint. Buy some of the ones used for painting on canvas.
For filling the foot and head I use shashlik sticks. What do you want with the brass tubing? Cut washers?
If you're not using tanged heads, there's no reason to use that brass at all. You can also use horn if you use tanged heads.
For filling the foot and head I use shashlik sticks. What do you want with the brass tubing? Cut washers?
If you're not using tanged heads, there's no reason to use that brass at all. You can also use horn if you use tanged heads.
Yes I want to make washers.
And I am using screw in points because the screw acts as a tang, but I am grinding down modern points because most points are too heavy.
The shafts are around 360ish and the nocks around 75-80 grains. (But I furrow a hole in both sides of the solid Tonkin shafts so that means I take some weight out by doing so; but still, I put glue in so that may make up for the weight also). And I want the arrows and the washers combined to be around 65grains.
Is that good or too light?
I haven't weighed what the sinew plus glue plus feathers would weigh, but I don't think it would be necessary to be that exact.
Anyone have any advice for me?
And I am using screw in points because the screw acts as a tang, but I am grinding down modern points because most points are too heavy.
The shafts are around 360ish and the nocks around 75-80 grains. (But I furrow a hole in both sides of the solid Tonkin shafts so that means I take some weight out by doing so; but still, I put glue in so that may make up for the weight also). And I want the arrows and the washers combined to be around 65grains.
Is that good or too light?
I haven't weighed what the sinew plus glue plus feathers would weigh, but I don't think it would be necessary to be that exact.
Anyone have any advice for me?
Could you elaborate on why you need them with tanged heads? Does the long tang increase the risk of bamboo splitting at the point?Bj?rn Sofeit wrote:
If you're not using tanged heads, there's no reason to use that brass at all. You can also use horn if you use tanged heads.
It actually decreases the risk of the bamboo splitting. And the tang (or screw in my case) actually helps evenly distribute the weight, opposite to all the point's weight being at the very head of the arrow. Also, the metal ferrule (or washer) that I will put behind the arrow point after tapering the end of the arrow a bit.
Yeah I've seen Korean fletchers do the same with bamboo sleeves. I'm making my first set of bamboo arrows with tanged points and trying to decide how necessary reinforcement will be..
It's a feature present in some turkish and mughal target arrows. Bede recommended it to me, he meant it reduces the risk of splitting (not target arrows, but you see the brass ring)
[external image]
I used it for this project, but with horn
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![[external image]](http://i.imgur.com/68xMQFh.jpg){kind=link}
I used it for this project, but with horn
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![[external image]](http://i.imgur.com/2LMU248l.jpg){kind=link}
That's nice. Is it a horn ring? How did you attach the horn?
And this is for everyone: can anyone post a close up of some intricate Turkish and Persian and Mughal motifs that are used on arrows?
I keep on looking up artwork but I never see high-detailed photos of what they looked like.
And this is for everyone: can anyone post a close up of some intricate Turkish and Persian and Mughal motifs that are used on arrows?
I keep on looking up artwork but I never see high-detailed photos of what they looked like.
I just got that from the internet. The picture is from the Grayson collection I think.
I used these small horn plates that they sell for reinforing the nocks in longbow arrows. You drill a hole with the same size as the tang, then cut small squares. These you glue on, the pieces that are looking out, cut down with a fine saw and then sand it to size. It's rather easy
I used these small horn plates that they sell for reinforing the nocks in longbow arrows. You drill a hole with the same size as the tang, then cut small squares. These you glue on, the pieces that are looking out, cut down with a fine saw and then sand it to size. It's rather easy
I get a good bond with feather to bamboo shafts with duco cement, and haven't had any problems with enamel or acrylic's for crown dip's(actually I just use the spray paint) without sanding. I cant get inks to stick unless I sand. But I guess a lot of this could apply differently if the shaft has been heat treated or not. They appear to be, but I don't know where you got them.
Interesting, so you end up just literally gluing on the piece directly onto the shaft, and the tang goes thru it and into the shaft almost like a key into a lock. Cool. Did the Mughals use such technology?Bj?rn Sofeit wrote:
I just got that from the internet. The picture is from the Grayson collection I think.
I used these small horn plates that they sell for reinforing the nocks in longbow arrows. You drill a hole with the same size as the tang, then cut small squares. These you glue on, the pieces that are looking out, cut down with a fine saw and then sand it to size. It's rather easy
Thanks for helping. I just bought a nice set of Testor enamel bottles from the local chain craft store, "Michael's", and they are good for these shafts, as Jack Farrell told me. These are Stiven Tiger's shafts btw, from ebay. And yes, they are treated with heat. I will sand down the parts I will paint, though; and also, I am going to use wood glue for the feathers and use my sanding hand tool to sand down the quill so it'll easily set on the shaft. That's funny you used the spray--I should have thought of that. But, I intend to put my little twist on these arrows....you all are going to love the decoration: I am putting gold eagles on the shafts!!bustedarrow wrote:
I get a good bond with feather to bamboo shafts with duco cement, and haven't had any problems with enamel or acrylic's for crown dip's(actually I just use the spray paint) without sanding. I cant get inks to stick unless I sand. But I guess a lot of this could apply differently if the shaft has been heat treated or not. They appear to be, but I don't know where you got them.
The green ring on the Turkish arrow from the Grayson Collection is dyed ivory or bone. There are two ways horn is used on Turkish arrows for point reinforcement. In one, the horn piece acts as a bolster between the rear of the point and the tip of the arrow shaft. When this horn is eaten by insects you end up with a shaft with a flat end that is too wide for the base of the point. This has happened to some arrows in the Karlsruhe collection. In the other, the end of the shaft is reduced in size to about twice the diameter of the tang of the arrowhead. A hole of the right size is drilled in the horn and in is mounted on the shaft. The tang goes into the shaft and the shaft is enclosed by the horn. Sometimes both techniques are used on one arrow with different coloured materials.
There is another technique used with horn nocks on Turkish arrows. A thin washer is made of black horn or antiqued copper and it is fitted over the tenon on the shaft that fits into the nock. This makes a fine black line at the base of the nock that is attractive. In bashpare nocks and self nocks, a similar effect is made by wrapping a thin black thread around the shaft on the sinew reinforcement. The thread is soaked in glue and is under a layer of glue put on over the sinew binding. This can be seen with a magnifying glass.
There is another technique used with horn nocks on Turkish arrows. A thin washer is made of black horn or antiqued copper and it is fitted over the tenon on the shaft that fits into the nock. This makes a fine black line at the base of the nock that is attractive. In bashpare nocks and self nocks, a similar effect is made by wrapping a thin black thread around the shaft on the sinew reinforcement. The thread is soaked in glue and is under a layer of glue put on over the sinew binding. This can be seen with a magnifying glass.
That's very interesting. I also didn't know insects had a taste for horn, good to know. I have been practicing my Asian-inspired motifs in painting and I am going to try phoenixes, because all my eagles ended up looking like they were on fire anyways. haha.
There are two insects that like horn, the carpet beetle and the feather mite. Both are adapted to eat keratin. The feather mite is so small it is only apparent by the little tracks in the horn. The carpet beetle grows big enough to be seen by the naked eye.
There is a third insect that bores holes in horn, but I have never caught one and do not know what it is.
There is a third insect that bores holes in horn, but I have never caught one and do not know what it is.
I finally got my sinew. I now have all my materials and enough equipment to make probably a hundred arrows. Let the games begin. But this is phase two, I guess, of this batch:
I made a point with brass ferrule, and shot it at a target a couple times to make sure it would work, then this happened:
What went wrong? It was from 2 meters away from the target. The split happened right before a node.
Such a shame. I spent a while on that point. Was it too weak in spine?
By the way, I pulled the splinter a little to show what happened. it didn't come out of the target like that.
What went wrong? It was from 2 meters away from the target. The split happened right before a node.
Such a shame. I spent a while on that point. Was it too weak in spine?
By the way, I pulled the splinter a little to show what happened. it didn't come out of the target like that.
Some guy posted on FB that he had arrows break from similar distances. What sounded most plausible to me is:
"as I understand it, the shaft hasn't really had time to straighten out it's flight at that distance and is still oscillating, so it has sideways forces as it suddenly slams into such a close target. I don't there is much to do, and it's probably not directly related to your release."
Bad release is ofc related to fishtailing, but it's hard to say at this distance. Ironically, the nodules are the weakest point on the shaft
"as I understand it, the shaft hasn't really had time to straighten out it's flight at that distance and is still oscillating, so it has sideways forces as it suddenly slams into such a close target. I don't there is much to do, and it's probably not directly related to your release."
Bad release is ofc related to fishtailing, but it's hard to say at this distance. Ironically, the nodules are the weakest point on the shaft
I understand. I am still going to shorten them by two inches, to 31 and 3/16". I feel that they would be better for my draw and stronger.
Wish me luck!
Wish me luck!
Don't post your full emailadress in a public forum. There's bots mining for this. You'll drown in spam.
Ok, done.
Almost done fletching....
It is a nightmare. I will have to repaint the black on some because fletching on the JOJAN was ridiculously hard because I am fletching them by eye on it since I am doing cock-up fletching, like the Mughals. (Y)
Since the fletchings came from actual feathers I made from goose feathers by hand, the quills gave me a VERY hard time because of the thickness of the quill in the beginning, then its thinness as it goes towards the nock. I found that when I put it in the fletching clamp, the clamp doesn't push down on the thin part of the quill because it is so thin. AAAHHH!! I am going mad ahha. I almost wanted to destroy all the fletchings I made and try to strip them off of the quill. I tried this on a couple feathers but it only destroyed the feathers, the quill just splits apart and is way too hardy to take the feather off by its skin.
Well, here are my really ghetto arrows, haha:
It is a nightmare. I will have to repaint the black on some because fletching on the JOJAN was ridiculously hard because I am fletching them by eye on it since I am doing cock-up fletching, like the Mughals. (Y)
Since the fletchings came from actual feathers I made from goose feathers by hand, the quills gave me a VERY hard time because of the thickness of the quill in the beginning, then its thinness as it goes towards the nock. I found that when I put it in the fletching clamp, the clamp doesn't push down on the thin part of the quill because it is so thin. AAAHHH!! I am going mad ahha. I almost wanted to destroy all the fletchings I made and try to strip them off of the quill. I tried this on a couple feathers but it only destroyed the feathers, the quill just splits apart and is way too hardy to take the feather off by its skin.
Well, here are my really ghetto arrows, haha:
I now know why Koreans charge so much. I would charge at least 40 per arrow if I started making these kinds of arrows in the States.
Well, how are you supposed to get things right eventually if you don't fail.
I don't use the end of the feathers where the quill vanishes (though you could). If you do that with the jojan fletcher, you need to pinch the clamp at the back where the quill is thin with your fingers, so that the feather doesn't move. Glue and hold it there for a minute or two, pushing the clamp together.
You want to have a little quill left and ofc you cut the front where the quill is thick with scissors so that everything is even. The spongy stuff is sanded away. Stripping feathers the right way takes practice. You can expect alot of waste, before things start to improve.
With Titebond et al. you don't need alot of pressure, and it's easy to clean off surplus glue with a toothpick.
As for cock up, why didn't you build a simple adapter out of a leftover wooden shaft? You cut a regular nock into the shaft, put it in the fletcher and then mark the uncut side so that it's cock up. Saw it off 2cm below the nock where you marked the desired position of the fletching. Cut it out as a counterpart for your nock and you can now fletch cock up without a problem.
I'd suspect that korean arrows are so expensive, because you'd have to sort alot of shafts to get the ones perfectly matching in weight, spine and can be made perfectly straight. Lot's of manual labor, therefore expensive.
I don't use the end of the feathers where the quill vanishes (though you could). If you do that with the jojan fletcher, you need to pinch the clamp at the back where the quill is thin with your fingers, so that the feather doesn't move. Glue and hold it there for a minute or two, pushing the clamp together.
You want to have a little quill left and ofc you cut the front where the quill is thick with scissors so that everything is even. The spongy stuff is sanded away. Stripping feathers the right way takes practice. You can expect alot of waste, before things start to improve.
With Titebond et al. you don't need alot of pressure, and it's easy to clean off surplus glue with a toothpick.
As for cock up, why didn't you build a simple adapter out of a leftover wooden shaft? You cut a regular nock into the shaft, put it in the fletcher and then mark the uncut side so that it's cock up. Saw it off 2cm below the nock where you marked the desired position of the fletching. Cut it out as a counterpart for your nock and you can now fletch cock up without a problem.
I'd suspect that korean arrows are so expensive, because you'd have to sort alot of shafts to get the ones perfectly matching in weight, spine and can be made perfectly straight. Lot's of manual labor, therefore expensive.
A sad thing happened.
The first arrow onto which I attached a point broke in half.
It was only 28in. as opposed to the other 31" ones that are shown in my next post.
It shot pretty well considering it is spined for 30-35# and I shot it from my Crimean bow which is around 42#.
How does it look to all of you? It is a shame that such beautiful fletching is going to waste....I will probably salvage the nock, point, and brass though. But I may just keep it together to offer myself a testament to my experiences.
Any of you have advice about points and ferrules? What is the usual rules for their combined weight? 1/7 of the total weight of the arrow? Or do I put on a fine tuned head heavy or light enough to make all the arrows match to the same weight? Or is that wrong?
So frustrating!
The first arrow onto which I attached a point broke in half.
It was only 28in. as opposed to the other 31" ones that are shown in my next post.
It shot pretty well considering it is spined for 30-35# and I shot it from my Crimean bow which is around 42#.
How does it look to all of you? It is a shame that such beautiful fletching is going to waste....I will probably salvage the nock, point, and brass though. But I may just keep it together to offer myself a testament to my experiences.
Any of you have advice about points and ferrules? What is the usual rules for their combined weight? 1/7 of the total weight of the arrow? Or do I put on a fine tuned head heavy or light enough to make all the arrows match to the same weight? Or is that wrong?
So frustrating!
The fletched ones but without points...Did I do well?
I am sorting through my 39" arrows now...I am cutting most to 32" and sorting them, and some of them are so straight that I want to keep them at the full 39" length and use them as Japanese arrows.
Regards,
Lucas
Regards,
Lucas
Hello all.
I would like to sell 4 of the dozen bamboo arrows that I have created. They are spined for 35-40# bow, but as we know, bamboos are hardy and with a proper thumbring technique, one can use a variation of spines for different poundages. (2 of my best arrows from my dozen shoot like carbon). They're nearly perfectly straight, but they are made of mountain bamboo thus the nodes swell a bit around the node (though they are thoroughly sanded) and therefore are not perfectly parallel like Korean/Japanese shafts. But, this species of arrow is more dense and therefore will not "pop" in half as easily.
To help me keep my arrow making practice going and to help me start up my business, I would like to sell these four arrows as prototypes. The cost will reflect this, and for all the countless hours I've spent on these arrows, I will sell them for $30 per arrow to a total of $120, plus shipping. They are matched within .4 grams, have bi-colored goose feathers at around 4 inches long, three fletch (cock feather up), and are painted. They have horn nocks (EXTREMELY HARDY, I have tried to break these nocks by shooting at broken arrows and they are sinew reinforced and will not budge). They have 65 grain points that I shaped myself into tanged arrowpoints and that is also sinew reinforced. 3 of the four have similar first node placements (as the Koreans do), 2 of which are identical in node placement. (my future arrows will be all perfectly matched by the first node...one reason why it is priced as a prototype). PM me or ask me for my email.
Check 'em out on my arrow page: (arrows for sale are named Red Tiger arrows)
https://plus.google.com/u/1/b/106572037 ... 6516/posts
I would like to sell 4 of the dozen bamboo arrows that I have created. They are spined for 35-40# bow, but as we know, bamboos are hardy and with a proper thumbring technique, one can use a variation of spines for different poundages. (2 of my best arrows from my dozen shoot like carbon). They're nearly perfectly straight, but they are made of mountain bamboo thus the nodes swell a bit around the node (though they are thoroughly sanded) and therefore are not perfectly parallel like Korean/Japanese shafts. But, this species of arrow is more dense and therefore will not "pop" in half as easily.
To help me keep my arrow making practice going and to help me start up my business, I would like to sell these four arrows as prototypes. The cost will reflect this, and for all the countless hours I've spent on these arrows, I will sell them for $30 per arrow to a total of $120, plus shipping. They are matched within .4 grams, have bi-colored goose feathers at around 4 inches long, three fletch (cock feather up), and are painted. They have horn nocks (EXTREMELY HARDY, I have tried to break these nocks by shooting at broken arrows and they are sinew reinforced and will not budge). They have 65 grain points that I shaped myself into tanged arrowpoints and that is also sinew reinforced. 3 of the four have similar first node placements (as the Koreans do), 2 of which are identical in node placement. (my future arrows will be all perfectly matched by the first node...one reason why it is priced as a prototype). PM me or ask me for my email.
Check 'em out on my arrow page: (arrows for sale are named Red Tiger arrows)
https://plus.google.com/u/1/b/106572037 ... 6516/posts
Nice looking arrows Lucas !
Good luck on the sales.
Its not easy making arrows, of any type.
Good luck on the sales.
Its not easy making arrows, of any type.
Arrows are more a more feasible endeavor since they are dispensable. Bows, on the other hand, are not.
True, but few really good arrow makers out there in actual numbers. Yours are looking very good. I'm looking forward to seeing more. Making them competitive with the others now selling is the key.
There are many in the 36+ " lengths from what I am seeing, I suspect that many of us in the US are more likely to be maxing out at the 34" or shorter lengths. I for instance am used to a 28" draw, so even with a hornbow I am most likely going to be drawing not much more then 32". The difference between a 28" 55lb weight and what the bow will do at 32" is significant in pull.
Also, I have for years shot Port Orford Cedar arrows, in field point and broadheads. With average weights of 550-650 grains. In a Manchu or Mongolian style bow, in both target shooting and hunting I am likely to gravitate to what I am used to, and am satisfied with.
This is a customer group you might want to take a look at. Port Orford stock is a lot more economical then Bamboo . I am sure that along the way I will be buying some Manchu style Bamboo arrows, but will rely more on the arrows I have, and am used to.
There are many in the 36+ " lengths from what I am seeing, I suspect that many of us in the US are more likely to be maxing out at the 34" or shorter lengths. I for instance am used to a 28" draw, so even with a hornbow I am most likely going to be drawing not much more then 32". The difference between a 28" 55lb weight and what the bow will do at 32" is significant in pull.
Also, I have for years shot Port Orford Cedar arrows, in field point and broadheads. With average weights of 550-650 grains. In a Manchu or Mongolian style bow, in both target shooting and hunting I am likely to gravitate to what I am used to, and am satisfied with.
This is a customer group you might want to take a look at. Port Orford stock is a lot more economical then Bamboo . I am sure that along the way I will be buying some Manchu style Bamboo arrows, but will rely more on the arrows I have, and am used to.
Thank you Zoltan
And Jake, the arrows I made are at 32" and I am cutting all my stock except a couple to 32".
I could make POC arrows as my base stock--is this what you are suggesting?
I have shot cedar before. It performs well but I feel it is a bit too weak. What stronger woods do you suggest as given by 3rivers? Sitka spruce? Ash? Douglas Fir? Tamarack? Birch Lam?
Jake the reason why I started making the bamboos was for selfish reasons to supply myself with unlimited arrows for my career in archery AND more importantly, because since I come from a family of small time free-enterprisers, I saw a need for high quality arrows in America---not ONE seller, perhaps other than Jaap sells weight matched, spined, balanced, painted, sinewed, arrows with even options for goose or HAWK feathers. They will match perhaps some of the Korean sellers in price but they will be American and have my guarantee; since these arrows are like my children and I spare nothing from trying to make these arrows as perfect as possible. And for some of my arrows I am going for Persian style--which no bamboo seller at all goes for. It's a unique niche in the market.
And Jake, the arrows I made are at 32" and I am cutting all my stock except a couple to 32".
I could make POC arrows as my base stock--is this what you are suggesting?
I have shot cedar before. It performs well but I feel it is a bit too weak. What stronger woods do you suggest as given by 3rivers? Sitka spruce? Ash? Douglas Fir? Tamarack? Birch Lam?
Jake the reason why I started making the bamboos was for selfish reasons to supply myself with unlimited arrows for my career in archery AND more importantly, because since I come from a family of small time free-enterprisers, I saw a need for high quality arrows in America---not ONE seller, perhaps other than Jaap sells weight matched, spined, balanced, painted, sinewed, arrows with even options for goose or HAWK feathers. They will match perhaps some of the Korean sellers in price but they will be American and have my guarantee; since these arrows are like my children and I spare nothing from trying to make these arrows as perfect as possible. And for some of my arrows I am going for Persian style--which no bamboo seller at all goes for. It's a unique niche in the market.
Thanks Zoltan
Great info !! These youtube videos are a great help, along with all the others along the side bar.
Great info !! These youtube videos are a great help, along with all the others along the side bar.
Hi Lucas
Go with what you see your niche as. I was commenting more from my own experience, bamboo arrows just havent been part of my archery experience. I would go with Port Orford over Fir most anytime. Personal preference, my experience with Fir is limited as the few I had didnt compare to the POC. All of my arrows are of Cedar or harder, and heavier woods. For heavy hunting arrows. A very different purpose then the light flight arrows. Thats a whole different venue.
All of my arrows I have had made are to order on spine, fletching and all else.
Matched sets of Persian Arrows could be a very good thing to have available. As well as Turkish flight arrows. There is a sizeable niche there I would think.
Good luck on these, and I am looking forward to seeing what you produce.
Go with what you see your niche as. I was commenting more from my own experience, bamboo arrows just havent been part of my archery experience. I would go with Port Orford over Fir most anytime. Personal preference, my experience with Fir is limited as the few I had didnt compare to the POC. All of my arrows are of Cedar or harder, and heavier woods. For heavy hunting arrows. A very different purpose then the light flight arrows. Thats a whole different venue.
All of my arrows I have had made are to order on spine, fletching and all else.
Matched sets of Persian Arrows could be a very good thing to have available. As well as Turkish flight arrows. There is a sizeable niche there I would think.
Good luck on these, and I am looking forward to seeing what you produce.