Making distance arrows
I am planning on making arrows for long distance, Korean target shooting. The cedar arrows I used last time were falling short of the target, but a borrowed bamboo arrow passed by the target a meter to the side. The bamboo arrow was quite a bit lighter than the cedar ones.
I have prepared bamboo shafts matched for my 50 pound bow. My questions are around fletching and points. I normally use 125 grain points. To go lighter, I see three readily available options:
100 grain steel field point
25 grain bone target point
12 grain horn target point
As for fletching, my normal 5? shield cut, helical fletching seems all wrong for distance shooting. Should I use 3? banana or parabola cut? Or do I need to hand cut my fletching to a different shape than is readily available?
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
I have prepared bamboo shafts matched for my 50 pound bow. My questions are around fletching and points. I normally use 125 grain points. To go lighter, I see three readily available options:
100 grain steel field point
25 grain bone target point
12 grain horn target point
As for fletching, my normal 5? shield cut, helical fletching seems all wrong for distance shooting. Should I use 3? banana or parabola cut? Or do I need to hand cut my fletching to a different shape than is readily available?
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
I think a really low cut fletching, like 1/3-1/4" would do well. I can be full length (4-5") as long as it has a very gentle taper. By the end of the distance, the arrow is stabilized enough. I don't think that helical or not has any difference.
The tip is what i don't get. The ones on Korean arrows are solid brass, and heavy. They were definitely comparable to my 100-125 steel target tips. I don't know if it plays a large role in distance. Just be careful that you actually get some weight up front. Try shooting a bamboo shaft, fletched, with no point. It is wild and the weight on the front is needed.
The tip is what i don't get. The ones on Korean arrows are solid brass, and heavy. They were definitely comparable to my 100-125 steel target tips. I don't know if it plays a large role in distance. Just be careful that you actually get some weight up front. Try shooting a bamboo shaft, fletched, with no point. It is wild and the weight on the front is needed.
When you say "solid brass" I think that may be misleading. The old Korean arrows I have have tips made of thin brass shells and they are deformed by hitting the target.
Bone and horn are not suitable unless you are shooting at a cloth or earth target.
Korean archers use long, low fletching, but they are very experienced and have smooth releases. When you reduce the height of your fletching, any deviation in your release can be seen in the flight of the arrow. Wagging and other faults use up the kinetic energy of the arrow and reduce its range.
Shooting with light tips requires some skill, but they do perform better at long distances. Some manufacturers make small iron points. I will weigh one and see how many grains they are. Very old target points were thin sheet metal formed into a bullet shape. They would be perfect.
Bone and horn are not suitable unless you are shooting at a cloth or earth target.
Korean archers use long, low fletching, but they are very experienced and have smooth releases. When you reduce the height of your fletching, any deviation in your release can be seen in the flight of the arrow. Wagging and other faults use up the kinetic energy of the arrow and reduce its range.
Shooting with light tips requires some skill, but they do perform better at long distances. Some manufacturers make small iron points. I will weigh one and see how many grains they are. Very old target points were thin sheet metal formed into a bullet shape. They would be perfect.
I did have some new points. They were similar to brass points you can buy from Three Rivers, only the insides weren't tapered like they are on the rest of the styles of points. I just know that brass is more dense than steel and that the steel target point and the machined brass heads from korea I had were very similar.
Hi Ron: I shoot Korean Target archery at my place here in Ontario. We've had 3 annual shoots in June, and will be having another this year. I seem to do alright with a 70 grain field point on my arrows. I'll use my Bhutanese bamboo arrows, or some barrel-tapered arrows. Try to reduce the arrow's weight to < 300grns. and use low-cut fletches as mentioned to minimize the drag. The arrow is 1/3 of the equation for distance shooting. The bow and technique are the other important parts. You have your bow, so practice your release. Push the bow and pull the string trying to put as much energy into the arrow as you can. Your posture, follow through after the release, and how you hold the string all come into play. Try video taping yourself to watch what you do, and then analyze to make changes. That's what I do. Hope it helps.
When in June? Where in Ontario? Can a true novice like me participate?
Ron: sorry for the delay in responding. We are going to have our shoot on Saturday June 10, 2006. Our farm is located close to Woodstock, Ontario. Between London and Kitchener. You are welcome to come for sure, and if you want to stay over no problem. We have a big BBQ after and lots of laughs. We are 1hr 20min. from Port Huron. E-mail me for more directions
[email protected] SteveT.
[email protected] SteveT.