My 2nd hornbow
I let you see some pictures of my 2nd hornbow. It's based on chinese hornbow but with some changes concerning mainly the Siyahs. You can see that not everything is finished but I am working on this. I have not braced the bow yet. It's scheduled in the middle of September.
For the core of the bow a maple was used and first picture demonstrates its flexibility.
For the core of the bow a maple was used and first picture demonstrates its flexibility.
at this picture the bow is presented. no string bridge yet...
Here's the bow again with a drawn picture as if it's being braced. Maybe the brace height isn't so long and therefore Siyah's would be in a sharper angle.
It was my intention not to make the bow into C-shape just to make my life easier when bracing the bow. :-)
It was my intention not to make the bow into C-shape just to make my life easier when bracing the bow. :-)
Wised to be in this situation! Congradulations Enno! Please, please some detailled measurings.
Thank you!
Thank you!
you want some measures? I'll give you :-)
Pay attention that my bow's Siyah's actual lentgh is less than shown on the picture. Rest of it should be pretty much in accordance with the picture.
any commets?
Pay attention that my bow's Siyah's actual lentgh is less than shown on the picture. Rest of it should be pretty much in accordance with the picture.
any commets?
Thank you! How thick is the wooden core on the first pic.? Does it get smaller to the tips? It looks as it goes smaller to the handle. But this may be an irritation of the eye.
Enno do you have or did you have a web site?
wooden core thickness is the same in full length - it's 5 mm.
concerning webpage I must say yes. It's about my 1st hornbow and I got lot's of Lessons Learned. unfortunately the bow was never finished... it became a 'sinew bow' :-) It's draw weight is 33#; I wonder what it could be with a horn...
concerning webpage I must say yes. It's about my 1st hornbow and I got lot's of Lessons Learned. unfortunately the bow was never finished... it became a 'sinew bow' :-) It's draw weight is 33#; I wonder what it could be with a horn...
Thanks Enno! I?ll try it in winter.
Well done bow Enno!
Thanks for your pic of the maple-core. I hope it will finish any further discussion about core wood. There is nothing better than maple. Beyond its outstanding flexibility maple is the best glueing-wood.
I?ll never use any other wood as a wooden core for a hornbow. I prefer the mountain-maple, rock maple is told to be a bit better?
Michael
Thanks for your pic of the maple-core. I hope it will finish any further discussion about core wood. There is nothing better than maple. Beyond its outstanding flexibility maple is the best glueing-wood.
I?ll never use any other wood as a wooden core for a hornbow. I prefer the mountain-maple, rock maple is told to be a bit better?
Michael
I just couldn't wait and started bracing the bow a week earlier...
This is my drawing compared to actual braced bow.
and here it is. still some work to do but anyway...
That is looking very good. I hope to reach that level of skill. I really like what you are doing.
trying a full draw.
planning to add some more sinew to make it heavier.
planning to add some more sinew to make it heavier.
The bow was too weak (less than 30#) and I added some sinew. Now, I need to wait and it's hard ;-) My minimum "program" is to get it at least 40#.
Is anybody familiar with adding some extra sinew later on? Did it work out well? How much heavier the bow became?
Is anybody familiar with adding some extra sinew later on? Did it work out well? How much heavier the bow became?
Munk; Should be no problem to add #10 by adding sinew. -j-
This is how the shape of the bow changed by itself after adding a layer of sinew in full length of the limbs. Picture is in one week, then in two weeks and in three weeks.
We know that sinew adds weigth, but how does the horn belly affect at weight? Say you have a 50 lb bow with sinew and then put on horn belly, how does the bow change?
My experience with sinew, is that it is awfully optimisitic to try and get 10b from a layer. Maybe 5lb. You are getting some good reflex though, it will perform better for that.
As for adding a 1/8" thick piece of horn, it would be about like adding the same thickness of wood. In other words it would make a pretty big difference. Since poundage varies with the cube of thickness (2x thick, 8x strong), it would depend on how thick your limb was to begin with and how thick the horn was. Say your limb was 3/8" thick, adding 1/8" horn to the belly would make the limb 1/2" thick. A 25% increase in thickness, would mean 1.25x1.25x1.25 = 1.95 or nearly twice as much poundage for this example.
Horn is heavier than most woods, it really shines when you are bending it radically because it has greater elasticity than wood. Like sinew, if you don't use a design that pushes these materials to the limit, performance will be mediocre. In longer, less reflexed bows, the use of these materials was probably only because decent wood was not available.
As for adding a 1/8" thick piece of horn, it would be about like adding the same thickness of wood. In other words it would make a pretty big difference. Since poundage varies with the cube of thickness (2x thick, 8x strong), it would depend on how thick your limb was to begin with and how thick the horn was. Say your limb was 3/8" thick, adding 1/8" horn to the belly would make the limb 1/2" thick. A 25% increase in thickness, would mean 1.25x1.25x1.25 = 1.95 or nearly twice as much poundage for this example.
Horn is heavier than most woods, it really shines when you are bending it radically because it has greater elasticity than wood. Like sinew, if you don't use a design that pushes these materials to the limit, performance will be mediocre. In longer, less reflexed bows, the use of these materials was probably only because decent wood was not available.
Hornbow in 7 months...
step by step bracing
The bow is braced after adding extra sinew to make it heavier. It stays braced for a week to get rid of the C-shape.
Your tepeliks are about as basic as mine. I thought I wasn't getting them cinched down far enough, but I see you are getting about the same results. I will give mine a try again and then go ahead and string the bow from this position. Was that difficult?
Also, did you "show the fire" to your limbs yet? As in, heat the limbs to get them to take the shape of the tepeliks a little better?
Also, did you "show the fire" to your limbs yet? As in, heat the limbs to get them to take the shape of the tepeliks a little better?
When bracing the first time the key word while using tepliks is to be patient. I did it step by step- clenching it little by little . Final step- putting string on- doesn't require the bow limbs clinched down on the tepliks. You just bend the bow as it is and let your friend to string the bow.
And yes, i did warm the limbs but nothing like fire :-) just warming. Does it help? - don't want to be a MythBuster- no buffalos (horns) in my country :wink:
All in all it took about an hour (warming, clenching little by little, stringing).
And yes, i did warm the limbs but nothing like fire :-) just warming. Does it help? - don't want to be a MythBuster- no buffalos (horns) in my country :wink:
All in all it took about an hour (warming, clenching little by little, stringing).
The bow has stayed 48 hrs braced and the draw weight was now 51# at full draw (~29").
Additional sinew increased the bow weight ~20#! Well, I must say it was not a thin layer of sinew...
Additional sinew increased the bow weight ~20#! Well, I must say it was not a thin layer of sinew...