The Russian bow
I have been looking at the Russian bow in the Image album.
http://198.170.108.27/photo/showimg.php ... ssian2.jpg
Is there any picture of the cross section?
What I see is that the birch is more narrow then the juniper. But from what kind of tree are the parts?
How is the wood tips done? Only one wood or both?
As I live at the Taiga it's more natural to make a bow of tree I found here, here are no water buffalo or bamboo.
But plenty of Birch, Rowan, Juniper and Ash.
Rowan work ok with sinew and so do Juniper. I think I will try to glue them the together with Moose sinew backing.
Has anybody made a Russian bow?
http://198.170.108.27/photo/showimg.php ... ssian2.jpg
Is there any picture of the cross section?
What I see is that the birch is more narrow then the juniper. But from what kind of tree are the parts?
How is the wood tips done? Only one wood or both?
As I live at the Taiga it's more natural to make a bow of tree I found here, here are no water buffalo or bamboo.
But plenty of Birch, Rowan, Juniper and Ash.
Rowan work ok with sinew and so do Juniper. I think I will try to glue them the together with Moose sinew backing.
Has anybody made a Russian bow?
hi redhorse,
I?ve done a reconstruction of the so-called Novgorod bow. I?ve posted it in the forum. Have a look at: hardware, the 3rd of October 2005.
In the meantime I?ve done a shorter one, with 26" drawlength at 52lbs, it is faster.
I like this mix of birch, juniper and sinew, it makes a very elastic bow. Nice to draw and fast.
For the recurves and the sides of the grip I?ve used bone plates.
I didn?t wrap the whole bow with birchbark, cause I like juniper to much, I want to see it.
Michael
I?ve done a reconstruction of the so-called Novgorod bow. I?ve posted it in the forum. Have a look at: hardware, the 3rd of October 2005.
In the meantime I?ve done a shorter one, with 26" drawlength at 52lbs, it is faster.
I like this mix of birch, juniper and sinew, it makes a very elastic bow. Nice to draw and fast.
For the recurves and the sides of the grip I?ve used bone plates.
I didn?t wrap the whole bow with birchbark, cause I like juniper to much, I want to see it.
Michael
I read that. Did you ever crono it?
Did you just guess the thickness of the wood or what?
My thoughts is to first make a bow about 20-25 lb as back. And then put on belly and tiller it to 40 lb. Finally sinew 55 lb. L 54-56", draw 26-28"
I have this bow I could easy make a back from
http://www.bahnhofbredband.se/~wb304054/siyas-8.jpg
Did you just guess the thickness of the wood or what?
My thoughts is to first make a bow about 20-25 lb as back. And then put on belly and tiller it to 40 lb. Finally sinew 55 lb. L 54-56", draw 26-28"
I have this bow I could easy make a back from
http://www.bahnhofbredband.se/~wb304054/siyas-8.jpg
Redhorse, the chrono-test was not done by me, but by the customer who has ordered that bow.
The bow shot a 24grams arrow, (50lbs at 26") with about 169fps.
The bow was done after a chapter from Maria Semjonowas book about the Slavish people.
I worked the birch and juniper down to around 8mm of thickness, steamed the reflex in the grip, grooved the surfaces and glued them. Then I had to glue a raiser for the handle, the boneplates along the sides of the handle and I spliced the bone-recurves into the ends of the lamination.
The birch was then 5mm in thickness, the juniper 3.5mm in thickness at the midlimbs.
This lamination was tillered to a drawweight of around 40lbs and then backed with 3 layers of sinew.
Due to Maria Semjonowas report this type of bow was done from 130cm-180cm. I guess the longer version is to heavy for to be a well performing bow.
I would prefer to do this bow with a length of around 130cm with 45-50lbs at 24-26" drawlength.
Good luck for your bow.
Michael
The bow shot a 24grams arrow, (50lbs at 26") with about 169fps.
The bow was done after a chapter from Maria Semjonowas book about the Slavish people.
I worked the birch and juniper down to around 8mm of thickness, steamed the reflex in the grip, grooved the surfaces and glued them. Then I had to glue a raiser for the handle, the boneplates along the sides of the handle and I spliced the bone-recurves into the ends of the lamination.
The birch was then 5mm in thickness, the juniper 3.5mm in thickness at the midlimbs.
This lamination was tillered to a drawweight of around 40lbs and then backed with 3 layers of sinew.
Due to Maria Semjonowas report this type of bow was done from 130cm-180cm. I guess the longer version is to heavy for to be a well performing bow.
I would prefer to do this bow with a length of around 130cm with 45-50lbs at 24-26" drawlength.
Good luck for your bow.
Michael
Rowan, juniper and sinew.
http://www.bahnhofbredband.se/~wb304054 ... -II-20.jpg
50 lb at 28 inch.
I see that the tips could be a little more recurved. But the bow takes the abuse so this can be away to make a short bow. The sinew has only 50 hour drying time.
http://www.bahnhofbredband.se/~wb304054 ... -II-20.jpg
50 lb at 28 inch.
I see that the tips could be a little more recurved. But the bow takes the abuse so this can be away to make a short bow. The sinew has only 50 hour drying time.
Did adjust the tips a little. And took a closer look at the hing on right limb.
http://www.bahnhofbredband.se/~wb304054 ... -II-21.jpg
http://www.bahnhofbredband.se/~wb304054 ... -II-22.jpg
It was a crack in the juniper. I can fix it by changing the belly to new juniper.
http://www.bahnhofbredband.se/~wb304054 ... -II-21.jpg
http://www.bahnhofbredband.se/~wb304054 ... -II-22.jpg
It was a crack in the juniper. I can fix it by changing the belly to new juniper.
Well, I put on a Elm belly. And the bow become a great shooter. It's to heavy, so on next I need to to make bone siyahs. 181 fps with 400 grains.
http://www.bahnhofbredband.se/~wb304054 ... -II-26.jpg
http://www.bahnhofbredband.se/~wb304054 ... -II-26.jpg
I note the ears are inclined backward, towards the archer, rather than forward.
How does that affect either force or accuracy or ease of draw?
How does that affect either force or accuracy or ease of draw?
Can't tell for sure but weight can be lower because the limbs don bend so much. Accuracy is very good and string angle is good. So I am not sure if ears need to be more forward. On a wood bow. Not more then what is needed for keeping string angle at draw length. But this bows ears are to weak because the ears starts to straighten at 62 lb.
A sinew and horn bow is something else. Have not work with them yet.
A sinew and horn bow is something else. Have not work with them yet.