Turkish bow - Dimensions for replica

2/21

sorry but the max space for all attachments is reached - I would like to add another 21 pics with exact measurements and a lot of pics.

Comming soon.

Reto

Reto, I can upload them for you on my account if you can send them to me at [email protected]
I am interested in seeing the rest of these pictures.

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Here are the last couple of pictures:
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Thank you for taking these pictures and measurements, Reto. I"m sure they will help many people.

Reto, thank you very much for the pictures!
Angel

Update bows after 3 layers of sinew (unshaped) on the way to become a nice "turkish brezel"

new project, turkis replica

wood center: cornelia mas (Kornelkirsche)
wood limbs: hard rock maple (from redhawk)
wood siyahs: black locus

pic 2

Reto,

Grip looks like very original.Cornus mas is very hard for grip, Im worried your grip will damaged because it is not flexible. Cornus mas is good for the tips but if you laminate it with maple it works (belly side is maple, top is cornus).İt is old Turkish style for Target bows.


Cem

I?m not an expert in Turkish horn-bowery, I admire them but I don?t like them to much, I found them to artificial, I like much more the elder much more rude looking hornbows of the Steppe.

But anyway I would see here no problem, cause the grip- section is not bending to much and the horn and the sinew do really enforce this part of the bow.

Is the grip of Turkish hornbows really bending? I know that there are different types of Turkish hornbows.

Maybe there arises a problem with this piece of cornus Reto has choiced, it seems not to be grown perfectly for this need.

Michael

Turkish hornbow's grip is not bend , only sal section . Splice of grip is bend, so splice must be flexible.

Cem

Updated pictures by end of September - meanwhile they are drying, shrinking and on the way of becoming a nice Turkish Brezel

First picture: excat measurements of bow core according to pictures taken and visits in European Museum's

Total length of the core: 2 x 49,5 cm = 99 cm
Total length of the ears up to the nock: 2 x 7 cm
Total length of the ears up to the top of the nock: 2 x 9,5

R

pic 2

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damp towels ...

pic 8

the making of the core

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Reto
Nice job! Your bows are really great!
As I can see,your core desn't curve greatly.However,when the sinew is a glued,it becomes a circle.I can't believe that it is due to the sinew.Do you fasten the rope between siyahs or even heat the horn to help it curve?

I rember Yok Hua used to say "put the 2 siyahs a little closer after a layer of sinew is glued". But how?

Can you show me a little more detail? my first hornbow was just sinewed. I want to know how to make it curve more.

Many thanks.

bu xie - wo ye hen gaoxing, xiexie ni

I get the first curve by steaming the core and horn - but this is not a must.

The second (tighter one) right after putting the sinews onto the core by fasten the rope between the syiahs. After curing/drying of the sinews the curve is getting closer, but you won't have a brezel yet. Then I put on sinews on the edges of the core and let them dry again. Once 2,5 layers are dry I will have the shape of a boat (but not of a brezel yet). Then I am warming up the core and the layer (of sinews) where I would like to bend the bow and get the rope tighter again. Further I am putting on the third layer of sinews and put the rope tighter again (still no brezel yet). But after 3 layers of dried sinews the tips of the ears are really very close. After drying again, I warm up the core (horn and sinew -> back and belly) where I would to bend it and press with the thumbs and palm the core together, so the tips touch each other.

I am going to post some pictures later on.

Reto

Reto
Your Chinese is better than I can expect.Maybe as good as your bows. :D :D

To tell the truth,I didn't want to make a hornbow before one day I happened to see bows in your post.and I was excited to find that I could follow your steps according to the pictures. So,my bow is just a copy from yours.My siyahs are a little big -----I dare not cut it too small.

May you will have more and more excellent bows later.Dood luck.

1/2
After settling down in Shanghai, I will continue with bow making. Attached two files with the updated bows I finished before Christmas 2007 and our move to Shanghai/China

R

2/2 Thanks a lot to Adam, Redhaw and Cem to continue with the two bows with cornus mas grip. So far no problem. The wood I used is excellent in quality (and grain)

R

Flight bow - almost finished and drying since 2006 (see part V)

2/2 flight bow

Beautiful as always, Reto. Your work is truly inspiring. Good luck in Shanghai.

Hi Reto,

good luck and a great time in Shanghai. I didn?t relaize that you and your family have moved yet.
Now you are to far away for to make a short visit at my workshop.

Go on making your nice bows.

Michael

Reto

Welcome to Shanghai .
Glad to know you are here in China.



Good luck!

Hi Reto,
would u be so kind and sand me a drawing for turkish bow? Have a grate wish to make it but need somebody's help.
Thanks,
Roksolana

Hi Reto.

I know this is an old post, but I would really appreciate it if you could answer some of my questions concerning the bamboo core turkish bows.

1. The jigs. You say that they are filed of, but do you do this before or after applying the siyahs, and will there be any of the jig material left? If this is the case, which tree did you use for the jig?
2. What tree was used for the siyahs and handle?

I am currently in the process of building a bamboo bow, and have acquired all the materials except the tree for siyahs and handle.

Thanks a million
Christopher