Yet another Horn Bow build along attempt!
hi,
We are newbies to making Horn bows. I mention we because it involves me and my friend who are both interested in making bows.
I went through the mine of info in ATARN and got the basic measurements for the bow. I have procured the materials required and
have started work on the same.
I intend this article to be an exhaustive build along for newbies like myself as well as procure the guidance of the experts on tricky areas.
Since my bow making is confined to the weekends this would be a slow moving thread.
Regards
Anand
A Bowyer from India.
We are newbies to making Horn bows. I mention we because it involves me and my friend who are both interested in making bows.
I went through the mine of info in ATARN and got the basic measurements for the bow. I have procured the materials required and
have started work on the same.
I intend this article to be an exhaustive build along for newbies like myself as well as procure the guidance of the experts on tricky areas.
Since my bow making is confined to the weekends this would be a slow moving thread.
Regards
Anand
A Bowyer from India.
Materials Used:
We have decided not to use a splice b/w the core and siyah. This is 'cos we do not have the proper glue nor the expertise and hence do not want to risk it. The plan is to have the boo core for the entire length of the bow
with bends as necessary.
- Core - Bamboo
Belly - Buffalo Horn.
Back - Cow Sinew.
Handle - Teak
Siyah - Padauk/teak.
String - Silk.
Hoof Glue - Hide glue is not available here. We do have hoof glue sold in rectangular pieces.
We have decided not to use a splice b/w the core and siyah. This is 'cos we do not have the proper glue nor the expertise and hence do not want to risk it. The plan is to have the boo core for the entire length of the bow
with bends as necessary.
Can any of you tell me whether hoof glue would be of any use in Horn bow making?
I have some pictures that deal with cutting bamboo, reducing its thickness and removing bends in the wood.
These are available with my comments on : http://picasaweb.google.com/anand.mukunthan/HornBow
The reason I restrained myself from posting the images is to ensure I do not reach the 2mb limit too soon.
I have some pictures that deal with cutting bamboo, reducing its thickness and removing bends in the wood.
These are available with my comments on : http://picasaweb.google.com/anand.mukunthan/HornBow
The reason I restrained myself from posting the images is to ensure I do not reach the 2mb limit too soon.
This strip was cut using a Korean style saw we made. This was cut from the inner part of the horn that is the inside of the "J" shaped horn. The problem is it has 2 bends.
a. The one due to the natural J shape of the horn.
b. The other bend is along the length of the horn.
I want suggestion from the experts on how to correct these bends.
a. The one due to the natural J shape of the horn.
b. The other bend is along the length of the horn.
I want suggestion from the experts on how to correct these bends.
aandu
I am interested in your plan,because my bamboo cores are of the same length as yours.
There is a hole in the middle of the bow(Is it an Indian style?),I think it may weaken your handle.Why not just glue the handle on?Or you can do as Chinese:to cut away half thickness of the core in the middle to hold the handle.
Never have I been told that inner part of horn can be used for a bow.
If yes,please give more information.
As Stephen said,Hoof glue can be used to glue horn or siyah to core ,but not for sinew.At the temperature hoof glue works,sinew can be cooked.
I wish what I said can give you some ideas.
I am interested in your plan,because my bamboo cores are of the same length as yours.
There is a hole in the middle of the bow(Is it an Indian style?),I think it may weaken your handle.Why not just glue the handle on?Or you can do as Chinese:to cut away half thickness of the core in the middle to hold the handle.
Never have I been told that inner part of horn can be used for a bow.
If yes,please give more information.
As Stephen said,Hoof glue can be used to glue horn or siyah to core ,but not for sinew.At the temperature hoof glue works,sinew can be cooked.
I wish what I said can give you some ideas.
hi Wu thanks a lot for the tips. I think I will have to rethink my idea of using Hoof Glue as well as using inside of the Horn.
The Bamboo core has a twist along the length. I could not correct it. So I am going to go in for a new core.
I managed to collect some fresh back strap sinew this weekend.
I want to know whether it is better to dry the sinew and then pound it with a wooden hammer or separate it into threads while it is still fresh and then let it dry?
I would be grateful if somebody could tell me how to make hide glue at home.
The Bamboo core has a twist along the length. I could not correct it. So I am going to go in for a new core.
I managed to collect some fresh back strap sinew this weekend.
I want to know whether it is better to dry the sinew and then pound it with a wooden hammer or separate it into threads while it is still fresh and then let it dry?
I would be grateful if somebody could tell me how to make hide glue at home.
I am also new to horn bow making. I'm glad to see somthing to help new bowyers.
A friend and I are going to try to make some bows similar to the Moshchevaya Balka bow/ Maygar bows. We are still working on gathering materials, but I will try to take pictures and post a thread like yours about our project once we start.
~Evan Painter
A friend and I are going to try to make some bows similar to the Moshchevaya Balka bow/ Maygar bows. We are still working on gathering materials, but I will try to take pictures and post a thread like yours about our project once we start.
~Evan Painter
aandu
You need a lot of time to make a core,so I advise to dry the sinew first and to make 5---8 cores a time in case you fail again. the cores can be 20--30 cm longer ,so you can decide the final length according to the horn strips.
You need a lot of time to make a core,so I advise to dry the sinew first and to make 5---8 cores a time in case you fail again. the cores can be 20--30 cm longer ,so you can decide the final length according to the horn strips.
hi wu ... you are absolutely right. I need to have more cores.
I had a boo pole that I cut into 7 pieces. Each was 81" long, 2" width and 1.5cm thick. So I hope to choose 2-3 good pieces and start working on them simultaneously... I have placed orders for 2-3 whole bamboo poles of length 80" or more, so that I can get the best possible cores.
Started drying the sinew. But not sure if I am doing it right. Let me post what happened to the sinew after examining it this weekend.
And Evan wish you all the success in your attempt. There are many experts in the group who will be able to help you out.
I had a boo pole that I cut into 7 pieces. Each was 81" long, 2" width and 1.5cm thick. So I hope to choose 2-3 good pieces and start working on them simultaneously... I have placed orders for 2-3 whole bamboo poles of length 80" or more, so that I can get the best possible cores.
Started drying the sinew. But not sure if I am doing it right. Let me post what happened to the sinew after examining it this weekend.
And Evan wish you all the success in your attempt. There are many experts in the group who will be able to help you out.
I got a 2 pounds of what I thought was hoof glue. Later I went to the manufacturing unit and found out that the 'hoof glue' that I bought was actually made by boiling scrapings from underneath the skin!
The glue is black, dried but becomes a bit sticky on exposure to air/moisture.
Is this kind of a hide glue usable?
I have cut the Horn strips, started drying sinew,etc... All that remains is binding them all together :D...!
The glue is black, dried but becomes a bit sticky on exposure to air/moisture.
Is this kind of a hide glue usable?
I have cut the Horn strips, started drying sinew,etc... All that remains is binding them all together :D...!
I got a 2 pounds of what I thought was hoof glue. Later I went to the manufacturing unit and found out that the 'hoof glue' that I bought was actually made by boiling scrapings from underneath the skin!
The glue is black, dried but becomes a bit sticky on exposure to air/moisture.
Is this kind of a hide glue usable?
aandu
You can make glue at home if you don't trust the glue you bought.Maybe you can try my way:
1.Find fresh fish bladders of any kind(2kg)carp bladders for example;you can also use a mixture of different bladders;
2.take off the fish fat and blood,wash them in warm soapy water;
3.chop the bladders with a knife to get rid of the air;
4.put the chopped bladders in a bowl with water covering them(not too much water, or you need a lot of time to get rid of it at last);
5.steam the bowl of bladders over boiling water in a cooker for 12 hours;
6.get out of the glue with a piece of cloth ,and steam what is left with some extra water for 4 hours.(hammer it before steaming if you like)
7.When done,mix the glue together and cook it for a short time(5--10minitues ) to send away the water.keep the glue moving with a spoon to prevent it from boiling point.
8.cut the glue and dry it.
You don't need to worry about the tempreture,becouse the water in the bowl will never reach the boiling point and it will remain till the work is done. however,you must add water in the cooker every 2--3 hours ,or you may burn the cooker.
The inner layer of the bladders will be thinner and thinner but will not melt completly at last. the wast is about 30% the weight of the bladders.It is nothing serious since you are using very cheap bladders.
You can make hideglue in the same way.
Good luck,man!
The glue is black, dried but becomes a bit sticky on exposure to air/moisture.
Is this kind of a hide glue usable?
aandu
You can make glue at home if you don't trust the glue you bought.Maybe you can try my way:
1.Find fresh fish bladders of any kind(2kg)carp bladders for example;you can also use a mixture of different bladders;
2.take off the fish fat and blood,wash them in warm soapy water;
3.chop the bladders with a knife to get rid of the air;
4.put the chopped bladders in a bowl with water covering them(not too much water, or you need a lot of time to get rid of it at last);
5.steam the bowl of bladders over boiling water in a cooker for 12 hours;
6.get out of the glue with a piece of cloth ,and steam what is left with some extra water for 4 hours.(hammer it before steaming if you like)
7.When done,mix the glue together and cook it for a short time(5--10minitues ) to send away the water.keep the glue moving with a spoon to prevent it from boiling point.
8.cut the glue and dry it.
You don't need to worry about the tempreture,becouse the water in the bowl will never reach the boiling point and it will remain till the work is done. however,you must add water in the cooker every 2--3 hours ,or you may burn the cooker.
The inner layer of the bladders will be thinner and thinner but will not melt completly at last. the wast is about 30% the weight of the bladders.It is nothing serious since you are using very cheap bladders.
You can make hideglue in the same way.
Good luck,man!
I wall also make the Moshchevaya Balka bow... or loosely follow that, mostly limb length and angle. I will use 4.5-5cm limb width for extra stability. I will add minor asymmetry(3cm?) for longer upper limb.
I am using hazel<Corylus avellana>(diffuse porous betulacae wood, moderately easy to take set, impossible to break) as the core wood. For the easrs I use tight ring spruce<Picea abies> (light,stiff, but not that elastic) reinforced with a little birch<Betula pendula/pubescens> veneer. I use ash<Fraxinus excelsior ??> as the center piece.
I have two 65-70cm water buffalo horns I will use to make the belly horn strips.
I will use epoxy(Casco strong 24h) dried in a drying closet (55Celsius) for the core. I will use Titebond liquid hide glue for the sinew backing.
I will use red deer<Cervus elaphus> sinew. I will add the outtest layer with Moose<Alces alces> sinew, if I can get it soon enough.)
The red deer sinew and horn are from highland horn. The moose legs i traded with rowan stave from a local hunter and the hazel is from the summer cottage of my grandmother and the rest is from lumberyard.
I am using hazel<Corylus avellana>(diffuse porous betulacae wood, moderately easy to take set, impossible to break) as the core wood. For the easrs I use tight ring spruce<Picea abies> (light,stiff, but not that elastic) reinforced with a little birch<Betula pendula/pubescens> veneer. I use ash<Fraxinus excelsior ??> as the center piece.
I have two 65-70cm water buffalo horns I will use to make the belly horn strips.
I will use epoxy(Casco strong 24h) dried in a drying closet (55Celsius) for the core. I will use Titebond liquid hide glue for the sinew backing.
I will use red deer<Cervus elaphus> sinew. I will add the outtest layer with Moose<Alces alces> sinew, if I can get it soon enough.)
The red deer sinew and horn are from highland horn. The moose legs i traded with rowan stave from a local hunter and the hazel is from the summer cottage of my grandmother and the rest is from lumberyard.
Aandu, The glue you are looking for is readily available in north India particularly in Punjab and U.P. they call it suresh and was cheap and easy to procure,ask the local painter if he can get you some as they use it when whitewashing walls.
jkekoni, I would rather try to get my hands on some "nomal" hide glue for the sinewing job. One of the biggest advantures of real hide glue to go jelly if it is cooled down and so fixing the sinew during drying. You can reheat the sinew layer when using hideglue and squeeze out excess glue pretty simple. And, for my impression, hideglue is not as hygroskophic as the titebound.