My first turkish bow
After seeing so many great hornbows last year in South Korea (WTAF in Busan), I simply had to try my own. It was a project to build hornbows since many years but I always had resisted because of the needed time...
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So I had to speed up a little bit and build a turkish style bow in 2 months... From my experience with sinew-backed bows and American Indian hornbows I don?t think it is really necessary to let the sinew dry for more than a week or so when indoors and room temperature at low humidity.
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This is the bow so far. It is made entirely of Hickory, which I have as waste at hand in big quantity... The core is made of 5 pieces as usual. I think I did not bend the siyahs enough so the string height is too low for this type of bow, but it seems to shoot quite good anyway. I made some other mistakes, too, regarding for example the length of the tips, and I didn?t inspect the hornstrips closely before glueing so I had to replace one of the strips because of severe cracks in it just when I thought the bow was ready for the finish... After that the sinew lifted up at one place because I didn?t groove the wood enough, and after tearing a part of it away I glued it on again (after some more grooving), and it seems to hold together now. Anyway, before reglueing I did not reflex this limb enough and I had to correct the tiller by glueing more sinew onto that limb. Finally I?m through with tillering now. At least I hope so...
The bow had a strong twist sideways after final tillering and I could solve this by heating from the belly and bending the limbs to the side (bow unstrung).
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The bow is 123 cm nock-to-nock and draws a little more than 60 lb at 28", physical weight is 420 grams without leather covering. Maybe its the hickory wood that makes this bow relatively heavy, what do you think???
When I replaced one hornstrip I could weigh the one removed and it was only 45 grams, so the entire horn weight willbe the double (horn is quite thin, around 3-3 mm only). Another possibility is that I put on too much sinew in attempts to get the tiller even.
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Is the leather covering on turkish bows one piece? Seems difficult to glue a one-piece leather properly on the grip section...
I will be glad for any comments and remarks by the horn bowyers in this community!
JJ
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![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/1_turk_01b.jpg){kind=link}
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![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/1_turk_01.jpg){kind=link}
So I had to speed up a little bit and build a turkish style bow in 2 months... From my experience with sinew-backed bows and American Indian hornbows I don?t think it is really necessary to let the sinew dry for more than a week or so when indoors and room temperature at low humidity.
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![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/1_turk_06.jpg){kind=link}
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![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/1_turk_02.jpg){kind=link}
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![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/1_turk_03.jpg){kind=link}
This is the bow so far. It is made entirely of Hickory, which I have as waste at hand in big quantity... The core is made of 5 pieces as usual. I think I did not bend the siyahs enough so the string height is too low for this type of bow, but it seems to shoot quite good anyway. I made some other mistakes, too, regarding for example the length of the tips, and I didn?t inspect the hornstrips closely before glueing so I had to replace one of the strips because of severe cracks in it just when I thought the bow was ready for the finish... After that the sinew lifted up at one place because I didn?t groove the wood enough, and after tearing a part of it away I glued it on again (after some more grooving), and it seems to hold together now. Anyway, before reglueing I did not reflex this limb enough and I had to correct the tiller by glueing more sinew onto that limb. Finally I?m through with tillering now. At least I hope so...
The bow had a strong twist sideways after final tillering and I could solve this by heating from the belly and bending the limbs to the side (bow unstrung).
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![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/1_turk_04-1.jpg){kind=link}
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![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/1_turk_07.jpg){kind=link}
The bow is 123 cm nock-to-nock and draws a little more than 60 lb at 28", physical weight is 420 grams without leather covering. Maybe its the hickory wood that makes this bow relatively heavy, what do you think???
When I replaced one hornstrip I could weigh the one removed and it was only 45 grams, so the entire horn weight willbe the double (horn is quite thin, around 3-3 mm only). Another possibility is that I put on too much sinew in attempts to get the tiller even.
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![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/1_turk_08.jpg){kind=link}
Is the leather covering on turkish bows one piece? Seems difficult to glue a one-piece leather properly on the grip section...
I will be glad for any comments and remarks by the horn bowyers in this community!
JJ
Congratulations JJ, nice work JJ, you are very patient. The 420g mass is a little high, but not too bad for a light weight bow. Normalyy for bows 50-70lb the mass in grams would be 4-6 times the draw weight in pounds. For heavier bows 3 times is possible.
I think you may want to reduce the string length a little to make sure the kasans do not touch the string (below the tips), or alternately heat-straighten the kasans a bit for the same effect. It will make the bow more stable in use.
The leather covering is more complicated. One-piece was done too, but rarely. Normally four edge strips were put on separately and the back could be done in two sections, butted at the grip. Often two belly pieces were added to the grip so only about 1-1.5cm of horn was revealed at the grip. The belly side of kasan could be covered partly too (or painted) and pieces were always added on the kasans under the loops' knots.
Adam
I think you may want to reduce the string length a little to make sure the kasans do not touch the string (below the tips), or alternately heat-straighten the kasans a bit for the same effect. It will make the bow more stable in use.
The leather covering is more complicated. One-piece was done too, but rarely. Normally four edge strips were put on separately and the back could be done in two sections, butted at the grip. Often two belly pieces were added to the grip so only about 1-1.5cm of horn was revealed at the grip. The belly side of kasan could be covered partly too (or painted) and pieces were always added on the kasans under the loops' knots.
Adam
Great job JJ ! Especialy for 2 month :o . You are maybe right about sinew drying , but your bow is in low reflex . maybe higher reflex need more time.When i see first composite bows like yours , i always thinking about mi firsts 7-8 years ago, when i dont know nothing about right construction , i havent comp , no Atarnet, no information and all bows was ...bad. You all guys who starting now , have all Atarn informations+ super book from Adam Karpowitz- you are llucky man !
Thank you, Adam and Dusan. In fact I?m not very patient...
Do you think its the wood that makes the bow heavier than usual? Hickory is quite heavy. The core is in the limbs ca. 4 mm thick, and even thicker in the end parts. If you subtract the ca. 90 grams Horn belly, its 340 grams for the core and the sinew (that would be the weight of the bow using Adam?s formula...). The bow is maybe a little too long, too.
Will try to shorten the string!
It?s great to have the help here on Atarn for a beginner in horn bows! I used the dimensions given by Reto and lots of information by others who post here frequently... A big thank to all of them!
I wanted to make hornbows since a long time ago, when I read Hein and Klopsteg, and Saracene Archery.
Hope that Adam?s book arrives soon;-))
JJ
Do you think its the wood that makes the bow heavier than usual? Hickory is quite heavy. The core is in the limbs ca. 4 mm thick, and even thicker in the end parts. If you subtract the ca. 90 grams Horn belly, its 340 grams for the core and the sinew (that would be the weight of the bow using Adam?s formula...). The bow is maybe a little too long, too.
Will try to shorten the string!
It?s great to have the help here on Atarn for a beginner in horn bows! I used the dimensions given by Reto and lots of information by others who post here frequently... A big thank to all of them!
I wanted to make hornbows since a long time ago, when I read Hein and Klopsteg, and Saracene Archery.
Hope that Adam?s book arrives soon;-))
JJ
For the covering, is it better to use rawhide or tanned leather? My plan is to use rawhide soaked in water before glueing.
Thanks, JJ
Thanks, JJ
Thin rawhide is more compatible with the glue and sinew matrix. Still, leather seems to have been used extensively. Perhaps because colour and texture can be a bit fancier. You can get very thin leather that won't add much weight. The thin leather used for covering books is good stuff.
It does not take more then this time to make a bow in modern indoor climate. Maybe the sinew change something with time but it will happen anyway.
I use silk on back, easy to put on and remove.
You could try string bridge if you don't get enough brace height.
Yes 4mm is heavier then 3mm wood :).
I made one that had 440 gram mass. Then I removed all wood i dare and got it down to 390 and +20 fps.
I am not so sure of the reflex,. I have not made any reflex and still got performance equal to Adams test bows. And that with just few weeks building time.
You can lower the nocks and make shorter bow.
I use silk on back, easy to put on and remove.
You could try string bridge if you don't get enough brace height.
Yes 4mm is heavier then 3mm wood :).
I made one that had 440 gram mass. Then I removed all wood i dare and got it down to 390 and +20 fps.
I am not so sure of the reflex,. I have not made any reflex and still got performance equal to Adams test bows. And that with just few weeks building time.
You can lower the nocks and make shorter bow.
Oo, but deep C reflex is s?? beatiful :lol: And i think have sense especial in flytbows.
Yes but you see that only when the bow is on wall :)
No man ! Good reflex bow return in 2/3 his reflex every time if you unstrung it (korean for example).I dont know what your bows , but mi yes. I only dont know whats hapend if composite is strung 1 or 2 weekends- like in his long time ago war life ?
Well done!!
My first couple never became a bow. But there is a special feeling with the first bow.
My last bow is a about 116 cm and 70#@27 and the mass is 295 grams without cover. it has not full horn.
Rawhide is quite easy to work with when damp. This is how i do. put the pieces in a bucket of water a couple of min then in a plastic bag for about 30 min. The moisture will spread out evenly through the pieces and make the rawhide very pliable. you don?t want it too wet.
I used that way to damp rawhide when i was braiding horse gear some years ago.
My first couple never became a bow. But there is a special feeling with the first bow.
My last bow is a about 116 cm and 70#@27 and the mass is 295 grams without cover. it has not full horn.
Rawhide is quite easy to work with when damp. This is how i do. put the pieces in a bucket of water a couple of min then in a plastic bag for about 30 min. The moisture will spread out evenly through the pieces and make the rawhide very pliable. you don?t want it too wet.
I used that way to damp rawhide when i was braiding horse gear some years ago.
Thank you all!!
Guess I?ll try rawhide and put it on damp.
I think, too, that deeper reflex must have an effect, why should old turkish flight bows and modern Korean horn bows have that immense reflex when it is of no use. It makes the bow so much more complicated in handling (I?ve got one Korean horn bow since 17 years adnd I never dared shooting it ;-))
295 grams is ultra light!!! I wonder how that can be accomplished- What kind of wood is the core of that bow, Puzio? And what is the thickness/ width of the limbs??
JJ
Guess I?ll try rawhide and put it on damp.
I think, too, that deeper reflex must have an effect, why should old turkish flight bows and modern Korean horn bows have that immense reflex when it is of no use. It makes the bow so much more complicated in handling (I?ve got one Korean horn bow since 17 years adnd I never dared shooting it ;-))
295 grams is ultra light!!! I wonder how that can be accomplished- What kind of wood is the core of that bow, Puzio? And what is the thickness/ width of the limbs??
JJ
Hi JJ,
Nice work.
How does it shoot? Does it feel fast? Is it comfortable?
Kind Regards
David
Nice work.
How does it shoot? Does it feel fast? Is it comfortable?
Kind Regards
David
Thank you Rebel!
I shot only a couple of arrows so far because of the cold weather, but I was impressed by the precision and speed ...
JJ
I shot only a couple of arrows so far because of the cold weather, but I was impressed by the precision and speed ...
JJ
The core is made of ash and and ears of unknown wood i found a nice natural bend branch. The pice between the two horn is juniper about 17 cm and it has juniper almost the entire kassan.
Just a warning if the pressure from the horn is a lot stronger than wood can stand with a butt splice, the placement of the splice has to be at least 2,5 cm (1 inch) underneath the fade at the handle and a couple of cm under the ridge at kassan. or the wood will squashed .
The width of the limbs at the widest part is 3,4 cm taper to 2,5 cm the thickness is total 1 cm if i remember correctly its 4 mm horn 3,5 mm wood 2,5 mm sinew.
I guess i could have made it slightly ligther if i had made more like a D but i made it flat with rounded corners.
Just a warning if the pressure from the horn is a lot stronger than wood can stand with a butt splice, the placement of the splice has to be at least 2,5 cm (1 inch) underneath the fade at the handle and a couple of cm under the ridge at kassan. or the wood will squashed .
The width of the limbs at the widest part is 3,4 cm taper to 2,5 cm the thickness is total 1 cm if i remember correctly its 4 mm horn 3,5 mm wood 2,5 mm sinew.
I guess i could have made it slightly ligther if i had made more like a D but i made it flat with rounded corners.
Puzio, you mean that you used strips of juniper instead of horn strips in the grip and kasan sections?
Do you have photographs of that bow?
Sounds very interesting!
JJ
Do you have photographs of that bow?
Sounds very interesting!
JJ
Ill try to take some pictures and post them later tonight or tomorrow.
Sorry for the delay of pictures here is a coupel.
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That must be a very fast bow. Did you test it? (Is the reason for not covering it with leather, to gain the maximum velocity?)
I covered my turkish bow in leather now and it?s got 450 grams now, ca. 30 g more than before.
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It?s good to know that there is a use for the horn strips that are too short for a regular horn bow. I?ve got some quite short buffalo horns that yield only 40 cm strips.... How long are the strips in your bow, Simone?
JJ
I covered my turkish bow in leather now and it?s got 450 grams now, ca. 30 g more than before.
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![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/IMG_4890.jpg){kind=link}
It?s good to know that there is a use for the horn strips that are too short for a regular horn bow. I?ve got some quite short buffalo horns that yield only 40 cm strips.... How long are the strips in your bow, Simone?
JJ
That must be a very fast bow. Did you test it? (Is the reason for not covering it with leather, to gain the maximum velocity?)
Yes i have tested it, but i do not remember the numbers and cant find them on my computer, i might do some testing later on. but i can say that its not a screamer.
The reason for not covering is that i want to be shore that all moist is out of the bow and me being lazy
The length of the horn strips is 26 cm (10").
I think there is a picture of Redhorse drawing my 43" 90# bow some where it had strips that was 22,5 cm, unfortunately the pressure from the horn damaged the wood at the butt splice and it was not possible to fix.
Aim currently working on a new puzzle bow it will have 4 pieces on each limb, from bone in the middle and horn at the bending part and horn or wood at the kassan.
Yes i have tested it, but i do not remember the numbers and cant find them on my computer, i might do some testing later on. but i can say that its not a screamer.
The reason for not covering is that i want to be shore that all moist is out of the bow and me being lazy
The length of the horn strips is 26 cm (10").
I think there is a picture of Redhorse drawing my 43" 90# bow some where it had strips that was 22,5 cm, unfortunately the pressure from the horn damaged the wood at the butt splice and it was not possible to fix.
Aim currently working on a new puzzle bow it will have 4 pieces on each limb, from bone in the middle and horn at the bending part and horn or wood at the kassan.
Fur sure the bone will not be squished by the pressure of the horn strips. And in the middle of the bow weight will not slow down it!
I?m constructing another Turk Bow, which will be shorter and maybe lighter than my first one. Core weight so far is 222 grams, but thickness will be reduced after glueing on the horn.
JJ
I?m constructing another Turk Bow, which will be shorter and maybe lighter than my first one. Core weight so far is 222 grams, but thickness will be reduced after glueing on the horn.
JJ
Did some calculation on the bow I posted in this thread.
With leather covering I?m now at a weight of 450 grams (of which is approx. 30 grams rawhide). It?s 60 - 70 pounds at 28".
Finally I?ve received your book, Adam! So next time I will take thin leather as you advise...
Now to the calculations. I had wondered about the relatively high mass of this bow compared to the numbers of other ottoman turkish replicas. In Adam?s book I see the average bow was only 108 cm long, but mine is nearly 124 cm n-t-n. So if my bow would be 13% shorter (108 cm), the weight would drop to about 391g (without leather covering to ca. 365 g).
So I think the length of the bow is the reason for it being relatively heavy in mass.
What do you thinK?
JJ
With leather covering I?m now at a weight of 450 grams (of which is approx. 30 grams rawhide). It?s 60 - 70 pounds at 28".
Finally I?ve received your book, Adam! So next time I will take thin leather as you advise...
Now to the calculations. I had wondered about the relatively high mass of this bow compared to the numbers of other ottoman turkish replicas. In Adam?s book I see the average bow was only 108 cm long, but mine is nearly 124 cm n-t-n. So if my bow would be 13% shorter (108 cm), the weight would drop to about 391g (without leather covering to ca. 365 g).
So I think the length of the bow is the reason for it being relatively heavy in mass.
What do you thinK?
JJ
Yes, you are right, the longer bows will have more mass. Percentage-wise, it depends which part of the bow is reduced in mass - the siyahs, the grip or the sal sections - so it may not be so easy to calculate the equivalents.
Adam
Adam
Adam, does it matter what the mass of the non-working part at the grip of the bow is, when considering how fast the bow will shoot?Adam Karpowicz wrote:
Yes, you are right, the longer bows will have more mass. Percentage-wise, it depends which part of the bow is reduced in mass - the siyahs, the grip or the sal sections - so it may not be so easy to calculate the equivalents.
Adam
The mass of the grip does not matter within the usual grip sizes (at least not in a noticeable way,I could not determine this yet). But an extremely heavy grip might help performance - it would be similar to the very tight gripping of the bow in shooting, which tends to increase the arrow velocity.
Adam
Adam
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Hello again!
Does somebody know a trick to glue the leather piece for the nock of a turkish bow ("zag") properly? So far I?m not really happy with the result... If I cut the leather before the glue is hard it tends to move, and if I cut it after the glue has dried I can?t remove the cut off leather as tidy as I want...
JJ
![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/1_turk_zag.jpg){kind=link}
Hello again!
Does somebody know a trick to glue the leather piece for the nock of a turkish bow ("zag") properly? So far I?m not really happy with the result... If I cut the leather before the glue is hard it tends to move, and if I cut it after the glue has dried I can?t remove the cut off leather as tidy as I want...
JJ
JJ, perhaps your glue is a little too slow gelling in the conditions of your workshop? And/or is a little too thin? Thicker glue has more tack. It is the matter of manipulating the variables depending on the situation. I do not see any problems with your zag piece.
Adam
Adam
Hello Adam,
thank you for your answer. Perhaps the glue is too thin. the leather slips very easily. How do you hold the leather in place for curing? I used a medical bandage strip and bicycle inner tube.
JJ
thank you for your answer. Perhaps the glue is too thin. the leather slips very easily. How do you hold the leather in place for curing? I used a medical bandage strip and bicycle inner tube.
JJ
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I braced the bow with a shorter string and shot it several times today. I? m astonished at how precise the bow shoots my arrows! They come out very straight and fast. It?s 70 lb at 28" and brace height is 7 inches. The right linb is a little out of tiller. I guess I?ll try to correct that by warming and bending the kasan eye region of this limb. Is the tiller correct now, except for the lesser curve of the right upper kasan?
On the other hand, there?s no sideways curvation, the bow is very straight and stable.
JJ
![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/1_turk_braced.jpg){kind=link}
I braced the bow with a shorter string and shot it several times today. I? m astonished at how precise the bow shoots my arrows! They come out very straight and fast. It?s 70 lb at 28" and brace height is 7 inches. The right linb is a little out of tiller. I guess I?ll try to correct that by warming and bending the kasan eye region of this limb. Is the tiller correct now, except for the lesser curve of the right upper kasan?
On the other hand, there?s no sideways curvation, the bow is very straight and stable.
JJ
looks good JJ. Best feeling,than hold and shooting from polyester copie :lol: .
JJ - the leather should stick with no binding or wrapping. Your glue is probably too thin. And the bow looks good - you are right about the limb - it would be the safest now to warm the kasan eye a little while the bow is braced to straighten it a bit, so the limbs would be balanced.
Adam
Adam
Ok, I?ll use very thick glue next time!
Got to brace the second bow soon. That one is much more reflexed than the first...
JJ
Got to brace the second bow soon. That one is much more reflexed than the first...
JJ
Bravo JJ. We love reflex ! :lol:
Two days ago I have shot the bow a little. It?s a pleasure to shoot with. Guess I was not reaching full draw, but came close to it.
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I finished the leather covering, put on some antler bridges and sealed the bow with True Oil. Seems to work fine. The back is covered with rawhide which I put on wet with hide glue. When it was dry, I sanded it a bit. The other leather is a 0.5 mm nubuck leather in light green. It was glued on with thick hide glue and also sanded lightly. The True Oil finish changed the colour into a darker green which looks better. Unfortunately there were several glue stains that are visible under the varnish... Seems to be impossible to avoid these stains while glueing with hide glue...
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I consider the bow finished now as I don?t want to paint it.
best regards JJ
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I finished the leather covering, put on some antler bridges and sealed the bow with True Oil. Seems to work fine. The back is covered with rawhide which I put on wet with hide glue. When it was dry, I sanded it a bit. The other leather is a 0.5 mm nubuck leather in light green. It was glued on with thick hide glue and also sanded lightly. The True Oil finish changed the colour into a darker green which looks better. Unfortunately there were several glue stains that are visible under the varnish... Seems to be impossible to avoid these stains while glueing with hide glue...
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I consider the bow finished now as I don?t want to paint it.
best regards JJ
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I simply had to share a picture of my turkish bow in it?s new painted decoration;-)
JJ
![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/IMG_0386.jpg){kind=link}
I simply had to share a picture of my turkish bow in it?s new painted decoration;-)
JJ
Good job. Congratulation.
JJ; Is this the same bow? First you decide to leave her naked and then you dress her in a beautiful cover.
I do enjoy seeing a decorated bow. By comparison an undecorated one does not look finished.
I do enjoy seeing a decorated bow. By comparison an undecorated one does not look finished.
Thank you! Yes it is the same bow. I didn?t expect that a decoration can enhance the looks of it so much, particularly if it is executed by myself...
JJ
JJ
Wow that looks FANTASTIC. BRAVO!!!
very nice looking bow you have there .
Very nice work JJ.
Adam
Adam
Thank you very much for your kind appreciation!!!!
For those interested: The decoration is inspired by a bow of the Dresden Collection "Die T?rckische Cammer", reopened this year and showing lots of fine turkish bows and arrows. I wasn?t there yet, but I got the very good book of the same title:
(http://www.amazon.de/Die-T%C3%BCrckisch ... =pd_cp_b_1),
as a birthday present.
I have to admit that all colours are modern acrylic (shame on me...).
JJ
For those interested: The decoration is inspired by a bow of the Dresden Collection "Die T?rckische Cammer", reopened this year and showing lots of fine turkish bows and arrows. I wasn?t there yet, but I got the very good book of the same title:
(http://www.amazon.de/Die-T%C3%BCrckisch ... =pd_cp_b_1),
as a birthday present.
I have to admit that all colours are modern acrylic (shame on me...).
JJ
JJ,
Thanks for the reference to the book. Although I have no room at the moment, I think I will have to get one. I have an old Dresden catalogue with a bow, bow case and some arrows. They are all of high quality so this should be a real resource.
Needless to say, your work on the bow is beautiful no matter what the materials.
Thanks for the reference to the book. Although I have no room at the moment, I think I will have to get one. I have an old Dresden catalogue with a bow, bow case and some arrows. They are all of high quality so this should be a real resource.
Needless to say, your work on the bow is beautiful no matter what the materials.
Beautiful work JJ. Congratulations!
Und danke f?r den Buchtip, hab?s heute bekommen.
Peter
Und danke f?r den Buchtip, hab?s heute bekommen.
Peter
Thanks, Peter! Your work (which is a lot better than mine) was an inspiration for me...
Das Buch ist wirklich klasse, es k?nnten nur mehr gro?e Fotos von B?gen und Pfeilen drin sein ;-)
JJ
Das Buch ist wirklich klasse, es k?nnten nur mehr gro?e Fotos von B?gen und Pfeilen drin sein ;-)
JJ
Congratulations, I like the decoration.
Cem
Cem
Thank you, Cem!
Actually I had to do the decoration twice... Shortly after the above photograph I tried to put on True Oil as a protection, and this caused the colours to dissolve. So I had to redo the whole paint job, the basic colours and the golden decoration as well. It looks nearly identical now, again. This time I sprayed on multiple layers of transpararent artists varnish first and put on True oil after it . So far it remains the same... That?s learning the hard way ;-)
JJ
Actually I had to do the decoration twice... Shortly after the above photograph I tried to put on True Oil as a protection, and this caused the colours to dissolve. So I had to redo the whole paint job, the basic colours and the golden decoration as well. It looks nearly identical now, again. This time I sprayed on multiple layers of transpararent artists varnish first and put on True oil after it . So far it remains the same... That?s learning the hard way ;-)
JJ
Hello guys,
some photographs of the same bow after the second decoration. This time braced. So far the colours didn?t crack a bit. Didn?t draw it further, though, due to minor alignment problems that have to be solved before.
[external image]
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And finally summer has arrived here!
Cheers, JJ
some photographs of the same bow after the second decoration. This time braced. So far the colours didn?t crack a bit. Didn?t draw it further, though, due to minor alignment problems that have to be solved before.
[external image]
![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/IMG_0681.jpg){kind=link}
[external image]
![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/IMG_0682.jpg){kind=link}
[external image]
![[external image]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/upo546/IMG_0688.jpg){kind=link}
And finally summer has arrived here!
Cheers, JJ
JJ; Very fine looking bow. The amazing thing about having to do something twice or three times or more is that a year later you forget and the work is still there.
Good photography also.
Good photography also.
:shock: nice
Congratulation JJ!
Very nice bow! Is very inspiring, I hope some day I will made one myself.
Very nice bow! Is very inspiring, I hope some day I will made one myself.
Ginni, you mean art decoration like that , or disain construction like that ? :twisted:
I got the "Die T?rckische Cammer" book, high quality book with excellent pictures. The bows, arrows and quivers in that collection is outstanding, all of them are richly decorated.
JJ, thanks for the recommendation. Now, I wish I could read German.
JJ, thanks for the recommendation. Now, I wish I could read German.
Jos?, I think the useful information, like the datation of the bows, materials, can easily be understood. Most of the other descriptions in the text are more or less useless. The pictures tell atarn users a lot more than the texts ;-) I was especially excited by the pics of well preserved arrows...
JJ
JJ
Yes, these arrows are special. I was specially surprised to see an arrow with blue fletchings and also to see arrowheads with pierced designs very match like the Japanese yanone. What I found different to what I use to see are the nock styles. Usually Turkish style nocks are reduced at the extreme in a curved tip, these are flat instead. I really like these warheads, I'm going to ask arrowhead makers for a replica.
If you look at the dimensions of the arrows, you will see that most of the ones with the squared off nocks were longer than 80 cm. The nock style is replicated in other collections. This nock type is almost certainly Crimean Tatar. Considering that many of the bows are also Crimean Tatar style despite being probably made in Istanbul, these arrows probably belonged Crimean Tatar auxiliary cavalry.
The ramie strings suggest there was still some contact with China. The fact that the nocks have a similar shapes to some Chinese ones is suggestive that there was still some connection to the Mongol homeland. However, the fletching pattern is Middle Eastern. The fletching was very close to the nock. The Crimean Tatar arrows in the Grayson Collection had more Turkish style nocks and more elaborate decoration. This suggests to me that there were two sources for these arrows. Highly decorated ones were made in Turkish metropolitan centres with Turkish style nocks and ones with simpler decoration were made in the Crimea.
The pierced arrowheads are particularly interesting because the smaller ones have a particularly Middle Eastern shape for the piercing. It appears often in miniatures in decorative illumination. It also was used in metal work.
The ramie strings suggest there was still some contact with China. The fact that the nocks have a similar shapes to some Chinese ones is suggestive that there was still some connection to the Mongol homeland. However, the fletching pattern is Middle Eastern. The fletching was very close to the nock. The Crimean Tatar arrows in the Grayson Collection had more Turkish style nocks and more elaborate decoration. This suggests to me that there were two sources for these arrows. Highly decorated ones were made in Turkish metropolitan centres with Turkish style nocks and ones with simpler decoration were made in the Crimea.
The pierced arrowheads are particularly interesting because the smaller ones have a particularly Middle Eastern shape for the piercing. It appears often in miniatures in decorative illumination. It also was used in metal work.