thickness of cylindrical ring
I'm in the process of making a cylindrical ring out of a pool ball. I was wondering: are the walls too thick for this ring? (See attached.) I'm trying to decide whether it's worth trimming the walls to 3/16".
Here are the existing dimensions:
- Length: just under 1"
- Aperture: 7/8" diameter
- Wall: 1/4" thick
Here are the existing dimensions:
- Length: just under 1"
- Aperture: 7/8" diameter
- Wall: 1/4" thick
Justin,
There are rings that thick but it is not common in shooting rings as opposed to decorative ones. I have some I have shot with that are from 5 mm to 5.7 mm. These are original rings of jade etc.
Some people believe the thicker rings are earlier, but I think this has more to do with dealers than archers. The thinner rings give a sharper release and any bow I can draw with a regular ring, I can also draw with one of these. The thicker rings are initially more comfortable and may be more durable if made from softer materials. A quarter inch is a little big but very close to the range of rings I am using. You could always shave more off after you become comfortable with the ring.
There are rings that thick but it is not common in shooting rings as opposed to decorative ones. I have some I have shot with that are from 5 mm to 5.7 mm. These are original rings of jade etc.
Some people believe the thicker rings are earlier, but I think this has more to do with dealers than archers. The thinner rings give a sharper release and any bow I can draw with a regular ring, I can also draw with one of these. The thicker rings are initially more comfortable and may be more durable if made from softer materials. A quarter inch is a little big but very close to the range of rings I am using. You could always shave more off after you become comfortable with the ring.
Remember above all that these cylindrical rings were used with thicker strings (around 3/16"). You will not feel comfortable using them with a thin dacron string.
Stephen,
While I agree that they were originally used with thick strings, I have had no difficulty using them with 12-strand Dacron strings. Held correctly the string does not press against the thumb. If the thumb is turned too far the right for me (or the left for you), you will experience pinching with thin strings.
While I agree that they were originally used with thick strings, I have had no difficulty using them with 12-strand Dacron strings. Held correctly the string does not press against the thumb. If the thumb is turned too far the right for me (or the left for you), you will experience pinching with thin strings.
Interesting... Then what's a good guideline for how far down the thumb should I wear a ring like this? I seem to recall a thread where somebody said wearing the ring too close to the base joint causes string pinch.Bede wrote:
Stephen,
While I agree that they were originally used with thick strings, I have had no difficulty using them with 12-strand Dacron strings. Held correctly the string does not press against the thumb. If the thumb is turned too far the right for me (or the left for you), you will experience pinching with thin strings.
Fwiw, I shaved the sides down to 7/32" (~5.6 mm).
Generally I would say, get the ring down to the base of the thumb before you draw and allow it to be pulled a little forward during the draw. That usually eliminates pinching. But I have little experience with cylindrical rings, and most of that was not happy. :oops:
The approach I use is to locate the distal knuckle of the thumb in the exact centre of the ring and then bend the thumb until the ring is locked in place. On my hand this puts the ring about 5 - 10 mm from the base of the thumb, depending on the size of the ring. With the thumb bent, it should be possible to pull the ring with your whole strength by the other hand and not move it at all.
You then form the other fingers, excepting the index finger, into a tight fist just as you would with a lipped ring. Push the side of the cylindrical ring against the side of the middle segment of the middle finger, if your thumb is long enough, otherwise press the side of the ring against the side of the distal knuckle of the middle finger, which is still curled into the palm of the hand. Finally, lightly drape your index finger over the end of the thumb nail.
You can now draw the bow. If there is some tightness in the ring, you might get some discolouration of the skin between the knuckle of the thumb and the base of the thumb nail with a heavy bow. This is caused by rupturing capillaries in the skin. It clears up in a few days, doesn't hurt and doesn't have any other effects.
Releasing the string is the tricky thing with these rings. You must open the index finger and then flex the thumb from the proximal joint (i.e. the base of the thumb) without straightening the distal joint at all. If you completely straighten the thumb, away flies the ring.
I have based this technique partly on Stephen's translations, partly on photographs of original nineteenth century archers and partly on Chinese paintings. Rings in paintings in photographs are often shown covering the thumb up to the base of the thumb nail. If the ring was a close fit, the thumb would be straight and the ring would only held on by friction. This would work with light bows, but not the heavy bows the Manchus favoured. I did a lot of experimenting with a large number of original rings before I could get a consistent release that matched old depictions and felt natural. This draw works best with long arrows and is most comfortable with the drawing arm follow-through Stephen has illustrated in his book, Chinese Archery. This is similar to the extended arm position in Japanese archery.
You then form the other fingers, excepting the index finger, into a tight fist just as you would with a lipped ring. Push the side of the cylindrical ring against the side of the middle segment of the middle finger, if your thumb is long enough, otherwise press the side of the ring against the side of the distal knuckle of the middle finger, which is still curled into the palm of the hand. Finally, lightly drape your index finger over the end of the thumb nail.
You can now draw the bow. If there is some tightness in the ring, you might get some discolouration of the skin between the knuckle of the thumb and the base of the thumb nail with a heavy bow. This is caused by rupturing capillaries in the skin. It clears up in a few days, doesn't hurt and doesn't have any other effects.
Releasing the string is the tricky thing with these rings. You must open the index finger and then flex the thumb from the proximal joint (i.e. the base of the thumb) without straightening the distal joint at all. If you completely straighten the thumb, away flies the ring.
I have based this technique partly on Stephen's translations, partly on photographs of original nineteenth century archers and partly on Chinese paintings. Rings in paintings in photographs are often shown covering the thumb up to the base of the thumb nail. If the ring was a close fit, the thumb would be straight and the ring would only held on by friction. This would work with light bows, but not the heavy bows the Manchus favoured. I did a lot of experimenting with a large number of original rings before I could get a consistent release that matched old depictions and felt natural. This draw works best with long arrows and is most comfortable with the drawing arm follow-through Stephen has illustrated in his book, Chinese Archery. This is similar to the extended arm position in Japanese archery.
Thanks for the tips. This was very useful. Half the time, I'm able to draw the string without pinching the thumb, so I'm still getting used to this style.
So I ended up making another ring because the last one was too loose. I shot with the one below, which has a slightly more snug fit. Although I only have one session's experience, the release with this ring feels more consistent and crisp than with the previous lipped rings I made.
So I ended up making another ring because the last one was too loose. I shot with the one below, which has a slightly more snug fit. Although I only have one session's experience, the release with this ring feels more consistent and crisp than with the previous lipped rings I made.