Turkish bowcases
From what I gather, Turkish bow cases only had the one suspension point. So, how did they balance / not flap around?
(compared with the quivers which had 3, and still flap around with 2 points)
Thanks!
(compared with the quivers which had 3, and still flap around with 2 points)
Thanks!
I experimented with this on horseback and found that bow cases worn by themselves bounced around a lot and it was worse the faster you travelled. At a walk they were acceptable, but cantering and galloping induced random movement.
Later on in our experiments, we tried riding with the full kit of bow case, sabre and quiver. I used an Indian tulwar which had much the same mass as a Turkish sword. The double suspension of the sabre held at an angle between 30 and 45 degrees to the horizontal. The bow case was worn over it as shown in all the miniatures. The sword acted as a stabiliser for the bow case. It did not move much even when the bow was taken out and being shot.
When applying this result to Manchu bow cases which always pointed forwards, I realised they invariably had their scabbards oriented with the hilt to the rear.
Most Turkish sabres were worn hilt forwards until the 17th century when more curved swords were worn with different suspensions. These swords often were carried edge uppermost with the hilt much closer to vertical. I acquired one of these swords after I had stopped horse riding so I haven't tested what happens when a bow case is worn with one. Incidentally, the tulwars I used had curvatures similar to 15th and 16th century Turkish and Persian swords.
Khorasani believes very curved swords developed as early as the Timurid period, but evidence from miniatures does not show them in use on horseback until the mid 17th century in Iran.
Later on in our experiments, we tried riding with the full kit of bow case, sabre and quiver. I used an Indian tulwar which had much the same mass as a Turkish sword. The double suspension of the sabre held at an angle between 30 and 45 degrees to the horizontal. The bow case was worn over it as shown in all the miniatures. The sword acted as a stabiliser for the bow case. It did not move much even when the bow was taken out and being shot.
When applying this result to Manchu bow cases which always pointed forwards, I realised they invariably had their scabbards oriented with the hilt to the rear.
Most Turkish sabres were worn hilt forwards until the 17th century when more curved swords were worn with different suspensions. These swords often were carried edge uppermost with the hilt much closer to vertical. I acquired one of these swords after I had stopped horse riding so I haven't tested what happens when a bow case is worn with one. Incidentally, the tulwars I used had curvatures similar to 15th and 16th century Turkish and Persian swords.
Khorasani believes very curved swords developed as early as the Timurid period, but evidence from miniatures does not show them in use on horseback until the mid 17th century in Iran.
Thanks for the info Bede
I plan on having a bowcase just to carry the bow, no sword or other fancy equipments. Would it be a good idea to adopt the three-point suspension for the bowcase too then, do you think?
I plan on having a bowcase just to carry the bow, no sword or other fancy equipments. Would it be a good idea to adopt the three-point suspension for the bowcase too then, do you think?
You could always try some adaption. I was thinking about a strap, mid way down the rear panel of the case, that could be fastened to saddle or leg (similar to a gunslinger)
In the Timurid period, some bow cases had two suspension points like some quivers. The balance of a bow case is different from that of a quiver. On horse back, you have to make sure that your arrows don't hit your bow in the bow case. If they have the same angle and the same height, they hit each other with every movement of the horse. This happens because of the angle of the thighs. Anything parallel to the thighs eventually crosses over behind your back. Not only does the noise irritate the horse (and you), withdrawing the bow from the case can be compromised if it is tangled with the arrows.
The solution of tying the bow case to the leg can make the problem worse. Attaching it to part of the saddle while it is attached to your belt is dangerous and should not be attempted. Towards the end of their empire, the Moguls used to attach the bow case and quiver to alternate sides of the saddle at the rear. This was an indication that they did not use the bow from horseback very often.
The most important accessory is the quiver. Its angle and height are how you adapt it to your body shape and arm length. An archer will draw arrows from the quiver much more often than take a bow from its case so quiver position has a priority over bow case position. In general in miniatures with semi-realistic depiction of bow case and quiver angles, the quiver is at a higher angle than the bow case.
The advantage of the single suspension bow case is that it can be turned around it withdraw or insert the bow, which can be difficult on a moving horse otherwise. You can reduce the length of its suspension strap until it is close against the belt. This eliminates the flapping around, but makes it slightly less easy to remove the bow and replace it, but it has the advantage that it is always in one spot. You give op the rotation ability with the very short strap and it works best with a rear facing bow case.
I have made and used a double suspension bow case and it works. Whether you wear it facing forward or backward depends on your priorities. This is an important choice with bow cases. Forward facing bow cases are more likely to get in the way of your rein hand and the lower limb of the bow is more likely to strike the horse where it expects a whip, possibly giving the wrong signal. However, they are good for very long composite bows like the Manchu. Very short bows like the Turkish can be worn either way so my advice pertains mainly to the midrange of bow length like Persian, Tatar and Hungarian bows.
The solution of tying the bow case to the leg can make the problem worse. Attaching it to part of the saddle while it is attached to your belt is dangerous and should not be attempted. Towards the end of their empire, the Moguls used to attach the bow case and quiver to alternate sides of the saddle at the rear. This was an indication that they did not use the bow from horseback very often.
The most important accessory is the quiver. Its angle and height are how you adapt it to your body shape and arm length. An archer will draw arrows from the quiver much more often than take a bow from its case so quiver position has a priority over bow case position. In general in miniatures with semi-realistic depiction of bow case and quiver angles, the quiver is at a higher angle than the bow case.
The advantage of the single suspension bow case is that it can be turned around it withdraw or insert the bow, which can be difficult on a moving horse otherwise. You can reduce the length of its suspension strap until it is close against the belt. This eliminates the flapping around, but makes it slightly less easy to remove the bow and replace it, but it has the advantage that it is always in one spot. You give op the rotation ability with the very short strap and it works best with a rear facing bow case.
I have made and used a double suspension bow case and it works. Whether you wear it facing forward or backward depends on your priorities. This is an important choice with bow cases. Forward facing bow cases are more likely to get in the way of your rein hand and the lower limb of the bow is more likely to strike the horse where it expects a whip, possibly giving the wrong signal. However, they are good for very long composite bows like the Manchu. Very short bows like the Turkish can be worn either way so my advice pertains mainly to the midrange of bow length like Persian, Tatar and Hungarian bows.
Obviously when I mentioned attaching to the saddle, I meant the whole thing. It would be quite stupid to tie your waist to the saddle.
why? :D
Boghadir,
In modern times and in battle, people fall or get knocked off horses. You would not like to bounce along on your head because you are tied to the saddle by your bow case. Also it would limit your ability to quickly dismount.
Orda,
I thought that was what you meant. I was just trying to be thorough.
In modern times and in battle, people fall or get knocked off horses. You would not like to bounce along on your head because you are tied to the saddle by your bow case. Also it would limit your ability to quickly dismount.
Orda,
I thought that was what you meant. I was just trying to be thorough.
Thanks Bede
Another question - how stiff/thick would the leather be? And would they be shaped like a pocket (just two pieces, front and back) or more like a box, with 5 sides?
I think for mine, it will only be used for carrying it around, and the bow probably won't be in and out too often, so I may opt for a two or three point suspension, facing backwards (my main bow is around 50 inches strung, would backwards facing be appropriate anyway?)
Or I may make a bunch of them with different suspension types and play with which one is best.
Thank you!
Another question - how stiff/thick would the leather be? And would they be shaped like a pocket (just two pieces, front and back) or more like a box, with 5 sides?
I think for mine, it will only be used for carrying it around, and the bow probably won't be in and out too often, so I may opt for a two or three point suspension, facing backwards (my main bow is around 50 inches strung, would backwards facing be appropriate anyway?)
Or I may make a bunch of them with different suspension types and play with which one is best.
Thank you!
Original bow cases varied in their construction depending on the area and culture.
There seems to be a consistent idea though. In areas with access to good quality, well tanned leather, the cases seem to be either one piece, folded on the string side and sewn on the bow side. In some examples, the case is made from two pieces. These have a seam on the bow side and the string side. They should be cloth lined if possible. Leather that is 2.5 to 3 mm thick works well for these cases. Vegetable tanned leather that has been saturated with dye will become stiff and offers more protection to the bow. This is the technique found in most Turkish and Persian bow cases. When thinner leather was used for these styles it was often strengthened by sewing on other pieces of leather in decorative patterns.
Another solution was to use thinner, poorer quality leather and attach it to a wooden frame. There were several types. A wooden strip could run along the curved side where the bow fitted or along the straight side where the string sat. These wooden reinforced bow cases rarely were closed at the tip. In some Tibetan bow cases, the seam between the two halves would be overlapped on the bowstring side and sewn, while a wooden piece would be tacked on the bow side.
I would never use more than two suspension points. If you want to attach the bow case to the saddle, one goes to the rear of the saddle and the other goes to the girth.
There seems to be a consistent idea though. In areas with access to good quality, well tanned leather, the cases seem to be either one piece, folded on the string side and sewn on the bow side. In some examples, the case is made from two pieces. These have a seam on the bow side and the string side. They should be cloth lined if possible. Leather that is 2.5 to 3 mm thick works well for these cases. Vegetable tanned leather that has been saturated with dye will become stiff and offers more protection to the bow. This is the technique found in most Turkish and Persian bow cases. When thinner leather was used for these styles it was often strengthened by sewing on other pieces of leather in decorative patterns.
Another solution was to use thinner, poorer quality leather and attach it to a wooden frame. There were several types. A wooden strip could run along the curved side where the bow fitted or along the straight side where the string sat. These wooden reinforced bow cases rarely were closed at the tip. In some Tibetan bow cases, the seam between the two halves would be overlapped on the bowstring side and sewn, while a wooden piece would be tacked on the bow side.
I would never use more than two suspension points. If you want to attach the bow case to the saddle, one goes to the rear of the saddle and the other goes to the girth.