Puta Bow core form advices needed.
I am finally giving a start for my first Turkish bows. They all will be target bows with Tekne kuram.
I have desire to learn the difference of dimensions as far as the angle and the radius of the bend is concerned. That?s why I skip the details of more complicated flight bows for now and focus on only Target bows. I do want to make different core forms and experience the difference with various bows. I am 185cm and draw 32 in. so one bow should be reasonably bigger both for myself to use and to experience the difference in performance.
I have soaked the limbs for making 6 bows. (if I don?t break any)
I used kiln dried hard maple and air dried dogwood.
Dogwood is used only for one pair of siyah and 2 pairs of sals in 5 piece bows.
Maple will be used for three 3 piece bow and two silahs for 5 piece bows
Dimensions of the limbs are 70 cm L and 40mm W. and 15,16,17,17,18 mm T for siyahs and cores of 3 piece ones.
7.5cm Tip and 5cm extra , between 5 and 7.5 cm radius in Tip/Kasan Bend, 135 to 150 degrees in Tip/Kasan angle, 17 cm to from tip to Apex of the Kasan Eye, and 10 to 15 cm radius of Kasan eye bend. These are the digits that I take into my account to have different bows. Thank you Adam for your great book.
Since it?s a target bow I thought that I can keep the tip 90 degree to kabza. Then I realized my problem was keeping my kasan 17cm and still being able to use different radius and angles in these bends. Each time when I changed the angle and radius of Tip/Kasan bend, straight part of kasan was naturally changing and kasan eye was becoming harder to draw. My good old friend excel helped me out with a simple program to overcome that obstacle. I put the angle between tip and kabza (I used still 90degrees), radius and angle of Tip/Kasan bend, radius of kasan eye and length of kasan and it gives me the length of straight part between two bends on kasan.
And I have endless possibilities to try now. And I got help from my brother for netcad and I now have 3 drawings in DXF format. I have 3 yellow, green, purple color drawings that you can see and compare.
My questions are what happen if the radius or the angle of the bend is bigger within its given range? What we gain using these slightly different dimensions?
And what do you think about the differences and end results of these yellow, green and purple form drawings?
I uploaded the calculator that I used as excel file, images of 3 different calculations, the drawings of yellow, green and purple forms and the final image is helping to compare those forms putting on the top of eachother.
Thank you in advance for any input.
I have desire to learn the difference of dimensions as far as the angle and the radius of the bend is concerned. That?s why I skip the details of more complicated flight bows for now and focus on only Target bows. I do want to make different core forms and experience the difference with various bows. I am 185cm and draw 32 in. so one bow should be reasonably bigger both for myself to use and to experience the difference in performance.
I have soaked the limbs for making 6 bows. (if I don?t break any)
I used kiln dried hard maple and air dried dogwood.
Dogwood is used only for one pair of siyah and 2 pairs of sals in 5 piece bows.
Maple will be used for three 3 piece bow and two silahs for 5 piece bows
Dimensions of the limbs are 70 cm L and 40mm W. and 15,16,17,17,18 mm T for siyahs and cores of 3 piece ones.
7.5cm Tip and 5cm extra , between 5 and 7.5 cm radius in Tip/Kasan Bend, 135 to 150 degrees in Tip/Kasan angle, 17 cm to from tip to Apex of the Kasan Eye, and 10 to 15 cm radius of Kasan eye bend. These are the digits that I take into my account to have different bows. Thank you Adam for your great book.
Since it?s a target bow I thought that I can keep the tip 90 degree to kabza. Then I realized my problem was keeping my kasan 17cm and still being able to use different radius and angles in these bends. Each time when I changed the angle and radius of Tip/Kasan bend, straight part of kasan was naturally changing and kasan eye was becoming harder to draw. My good old friend excel helped me out with a simple program to overcome that obstacle. I put the angle between tip and kabza (I used still 90degrees), radius and angle of Tip/Kasan bend, radius of kasan eye and length of kasan and it gives me the length of straight part between two bends on kasan.
And I have endless possibilities to try now. And I got help from my brother for netcad and I now have 3 drawings in DXF format. I have 3 yellow, green, purple color drawings that you can see and compare.
My questions are what happen if the radius or the angle of the bend is bigger within its given range? What we gain using these slightly different dimensions?
And what do you think about the differences and end results of these yellow, green and purple form drawings?
I uploaded the calculator that I used as excel file, images of 3 different calculations, the drawings of yellow, green and purple forms and the final image is helping to compare those forms putting on the top of eachother.
Thank you in advance for any input.
purple form
yellow form
we should hang out, man. Give me a call.
Yes, we should hang out :D
Hi guys,
Sure we should guys. Radius actually lives only a few blocks away from me. We were almost hanging out last time lol. Where do you live Warbow ?
I will call you soon radius.
Sure we should guys. Radius actually lives only a few blocks away from me. We were almost hanging out last time lol. Where do you live Warbow ?
I will call you soon radius.
The small radius at tip/kasan bend is good. That way the string will clear the kasan right under the base of tips and the bow will be less prone to twist. The other radius is not that important, because the limbs can bend there to some degree (depending on the position of the thinnest spot in the limbs under kasan - higher = more bending there). And the bend can later be opened with heat if too sharp. I suggest to make the radius larger at the kasan eye to make things easier later on and to make the kasan rather shorter. So, the yellow and purple is good. For puta bows you do not want the bow to bend too close to the grip (which is the case for the flight bows). Bows bending further up the limb tend to be more quiet (less mass above) and more pleasant to shoot.
Adam
Adam
Thank you Adam,
I ll post the pics of the forms and bent limbs very soon. I ll steam bend them probably tomorrow. I cant wait.
I ll post the pics of the forms and bent limbs very soon. I ll steam bend them probably tomorrow. I cant wait.
These are first bent limbs.
I steam bent 15mm kiln dried eastern hard maple.
Tip/Kasan radius is 5.5 cm with 150 degree bend. Kasan's length to apex of Kasan eye is 17cm and Kasan eye radius is 15cm.
It seems like there is tiny bit problem with the wood on Tip/Kasan bend.
It was our first try so we wanted to record our joy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Pof5dY_9XM
I steam bent 15mm kiln dried eastern hard maple.
Tip/Kasan radius is 5.5 cm with 150 degree bend. Kasan's length to apex of Kasan eye is 17cm and Kasan eye radius is 15cm.
It seems like there is tiny bit problem with the wood on Tip/Kasan bend.
It was our first try so we wanted to record our joy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Pof5dY_9XM
Hakan, any more progress on this latest bow?
I was not able to spend time in my workshop for bows for a long time. My partner (my dad) unfortunately was not around to give me a boost in my busy schedule.Lee Slikkers wrote:
Hakan, any more progress on this latest bow?
But he ll be back this week and we ll start to get some progress over limbs that we already bent, hung and left alone.
I have to learn how to spend my time more carefully since soo many steps may take cartain duration. You guys are experienced with managing your time efficiently for finishing your bows but i am learning gradually.
I tried to gain experience in shaping the bow and bending limbs, making fish and sinew glue, shaping kasan eye and laying sinew on sals. There are many things to learn and I thank all of you guys for making them possible to learn for all the beginners who are in my shoes.