Reducing kasan eye reflex

Hi,scrape the horn and reduce the thickness in the kasan eye and continue to use heat:I use an hair dryer,no risk of excessive heat...probably a heat pad is better.What's the thickness at sal,kasan eye and kasan?Maybe you could try to let the bow stabilize at a high moisture level and then heat the kasan eyes(gently) and open the bow with the asa gezi without bracing it:let it cool and stabilize at a "regular" moisture level (35-40%) before bracing it again:it could be tricky and dangerous for the glue though.

Francesco

Thanks Alessi, I have reduced the horn thickness as much as I dare and the kasan eye opens up nicely during the draw so that part is ok, it's just that it's starting from a too reflexed position. The problem is that I have used what I think is fairly high heat and yet still no change in reflex at the kasan eye...the heat has been high enough to un-twist the sals so I know that i'm getting it hot enough and plastizing the materials but I just can't seem to get any significant reduction in reflex....this one has me puzzled.
As this bow is fairly low poundage using the asa gezi simply bends the sals....obviously this is also trying to straighten the kasan eyes...I've even thought about clamping a board to the sal sections so that they can't bend...

Why not just make a form for the kasan eye, tie it in the correct position, and leave it there for a month or longer? It might not solve the problem, but it sounds like you have tried every other reasonable method.

It is a matter of trying harder. In the case of stubborn bends, I wrap the part in a heating pad (the kind one can buy at a pharmacy), set for medium heat. I usually use a thermostat to make sure the temperature never exceeds 55deg Celsius and the bow must be completely dry. If not dry (that depends of the humidity, but 2-3 months is a minimum), the glue can melt. The heating lasts for an hour at the most. This is best done with the bow in asa gezi, and bent to the extreme to account for springback, where the stress is quite high for the kasan eyes and both should best be heated at the same time (two pads). One can even correct the shape of the kasan itself this way, but it can be risky, since the wood is thicker there and can crack.

Adam