Cooking Varnish - Recipe & Directions
I am gathering ingredients for making varnish, according to Adam?s book appendix and from what I have read elsewhere traditional varnish was made from resin &oil and then thinned as needed. For the oil I plan on using cold pressed linseed oil, and for the thinner I am planning on using pure gum spirits turpentine. After much reading about turpentine it seems that the quality had gone down in the last 10 years. There are many forum posts and articles typically from luthiers and oil painters that talk about this. Pure gum spirits of turpentine is made from the distillation of sap tapped from living pine trees. Cheaper more common wood turpentine is made from shredded pine stumps, roots, and bark; this is not what should be used. Their advice is to order from a quality artist supply house and you get what you pay for.
I do have a few questions:
? What kind of resin should I use? I have read sandarac needs to be cooked at a very high temp to dissolve in oil. It seems that the most commonly used resin today is dammar. What about copal, rosin, mastic, or amber?
? Adam?s book lists an old recipe of 2 parts oil to 1 part resin. I have read that luthiers are using a 1:1 resin to oil, sometimes even less oil but again their instruments do not need to flex. Also any advice on how much turpentine to thin the varnish?
? Can I apply varnish directly over horn and sinew and skip covering the bow with birch bark and leather?
My plan for cooking is as follows, heat the resin until it turns liquid, add pre-heated linseed oil, and cook. According to luthier Keith Hill the varnish is ready when a little drop of varnish forms into a ball which, when you place it between your thumb tip and index finger tip and press can be made to adhere to both finger ends. When you pull your fingers apart you can produce a "gossamer thread". Before the varnish is perfect it will form a ball, it will stick to your fingers, but it will not produce that gossamer thread. Remove from heat and once the varnish is below the flash point of turpentine add in pre heated turpentine. Last strain varnish through a few layers of gauze into glass jar. Thoughts?
I do have a few questions:
? What kind of resin should I use? I have read sandarac needs to be cooked at a very high temp to dissolve in oil. It seems that the most commonly used resin today is dammar. What about copal, rosin, mastic, or amber?
? Adam?s book lists an old recipe of 2 parts oil to 1 part resin. I have read that luthiers are using a 1:1 resin to oil, sometimes even less oil but again their instruments do not need to flex. Also any advice on how much turpentine to thin the varnish?
? Can I apply varnish directly over horn and sinew and skip covering the bow with birch bark and leather?
My plan for cooking is as follows, heat the resin until it turns liquid, add pre-heated linseed oil, and cook. According to luthier Keith Hill the varnish is ready when a little drop of varnish forms into a ball which, when you place it between your thumb tip and index finger tip and press can be made to adhere to both finger ends. When you pull your fingers apart you can produce a "gossamer thread". Before the varnish is perfect it will form a ball, it will stick to your fingers, but it will not produce that gossamer thread. Remove from heat and once the varnish is below the flash point of turpentine add in pre heated turpentine. Last strain varnish through a few layers of gauze into glass jar. Thoughts?
As to the issue of turpentine: the less pure product is preferred by artists, since it evaporates more completely from paint. This means there are less residues left to cause (slight) yellowing of paints. This may be important for the artists, but these effects will not be noticeable on a bow. The purer turps are just a little better. As to the solvent, instead of the turps, you can use petroleum products, such as naphtha, paint thinner, or even gasoline or kerosene.
Among the resins: dammar will go into solution with oil easily and will not need prolonged boiling. Longer boiling will make darker, brown, varnish. The next in line would be rosin and mastic - both need to be boiled longer until the resin stops foaming, then the oil can be added. The copals are much harder to dissolve (an addition of more soluble resin helps), sandarac even worse, amber should not be even tried.
The paints can be applied directly on the bow - I have seen one or two Turkish and most Indian bows with no bark or leather.
The directions how to test the varnish are good, although I use an end of a stick to test a drop of cooled varnish on a plate. The tests show if the oil is indeed fully blended with the resin and does not separate on cooling.
Adam
Among the resins: dammar will go into solution with oil easily and will not need prolonged boiling. Longer boiling will make darker, brown, varnish. The next in line would be rosin and mastic - both need to be boiled longer until the resin stops foaming, then the oil can be added. The copals are much harder to dissolve (an addition of more soluble resin helps), sandarac even worse, amber should not be even tried.
The paints can be applied directly on the bow - I have seen one or two Turkish and most Indian bows with no bark or leather.
The directions how to test the varnish are good, although I use an end of a stick to test a drop of cooled varnish on a plate. The tests show if the oil is indeed fully blended with the resin and does not separate on cooling.
Adam
Adam, thank you again for your help and advice.
Today I cooked up my first batch of varnish. I used a 2 parts linseed oil to 1 part dammar resin. After cooking the varnish I let it cool so I could get a feel for how thick the finished varnish was. I would say the varnish was only slightly thicker than the linseed oil is by itself. I did heat it back up and added a small amount of turpentine for a final ratio of:
60% (240g) Linseed oil
30% (120g) Dammar resin
10% (40g) Turpentine
My question for everybody is how thin should I cut the resin? The only other finish outside of lacquer that I can use to compare is that of true-oil. I would say the true-oil is slightly stickier. As for the varnish itself I think I got all of the resin to mix with the oil, after it sits for a few days I will look to see if there is any noticeable separation. I also have varnished a few test samples of wood.
I will report back soon, thanks.
60% (240g) Linseed oil
30% (120g) Dammar resin
10% (40g) Turpentine
My question for everybody is how thin should I cut the resin? The only other finish outside of lacquer that I can use to compare is that of true-oil. I would say the true-oil is slightly stickier. As for the varnish itself I think I got all of the resin to mix with the oil, after it sits for a few days I will look to see if there is any noticeable separation. I also have varnished a few test samples of wood.
I will report back soon, thanks.
I have mostly used up my first batch of varnish and cooked a 2nd batch earlier today. I used damar again but went with walnut oil vs linseed oil. I followed the same cooking steps and used a similar ratio of oil to resin, 59% to 41% respectively, and cut with 10% turpentine.
Damar 301.8 grams 37%
Walnut oil 431.1 grams 53%
Turpentine 81.4 grams 10%
After measuring all ingredients by weight I began heating the resin until it turned into a uniform liquid. I set the hotplate at 300 degree C with the resin cooking at just over 200 degree C. I pre-heated the oil up to 175 degree C and then added the heated oil to the heated resin. I let the oil and resin cook for approx 10 min at 175 degree C until the oil and resin fused well. At this point I removed the heat and when the varnish cooled to 150 degree C I added in the turpentine, stirred well and filtered with cheese cloth. I had previously stored the varnish in a large jar, this time I went with small 4 oz (120ml) canning jars. By "canning" the varnish in small jars the hope is that I will use up each small jar quickly while maintaining the shelf life of the other jars.
Damar resin, walnut oil, and turpentine.
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Heating damar resin.
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Heated damar resin and walnut oil, note I brought over a second hot plate and pan to speed up heating the oil.
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Cooking varnish at 175 degree C
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Cooked varnish.
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Canning setup.
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Varnish filter fines.
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Finished varnish.
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Other useful data:
Damar Resin
Flash point - 235 to 316 degree C
Linseed Oil
Flash point - 222 degree C
Smoke point - 107 degree C (unrefined)
Auto ignite - 343 degree C
Walnut Oil
Flash point - 149 degree C
Smoke point - 160/204 degree C (unrefined/refined)
Turpentine
Flash point - 35 degree C
Boiling point - 157 degree C
Auto ignite - 253 degree C
Damar 301.8 grams 37%
Walnut oil 431.1 grams 53%
Turpentine 81.4 grams 10%
After measuring all ingredients by weight I began heating the resin until it turned into a uniform liquid. I set the hotplate at 300 degree C with the resin cooking at just over 200 degree C. I pre-heated the oil up to 175 degree C and then added the heated oil to the heated resin. I let the oil and resin cook for approx 10 min at 175 degree C until the oil and resin fused well. At this point I removed the heat and when the varnish cooled to 150 degree C I added in the turpentine, stirred well and filtered with cheese cloth. I had previously stored the varnish in a large jar, this time I went with small 4 oz (120ml) canning jars. By "canning" the varnish in small jars the hope is that I will use up each small jar quickly while maintaining the shelf life of the other jars.
Damar resin, walnut oil, and turpentine.
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Heating damar resin.
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Heated damar resin and walnut oil, note I brought over a second hot plate and pan to speed up heating the oil.
[external image]
Cooking varnish at 175 degree C
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Cooked varnish.
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Canning setup.
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Varnish filter fines.
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Finished varnish.
[external image]
Other useful data:
Damar Resin
Flash point - 235 to 316 degree C
Linseed Oil
Flash point - 222 degree C
Smoke point - 107 degree C (unrefined)
Auto ignite - 343 degree C
Walnut Oil
Flash point - 149 degree C
Smoke point - 160/204 degree C (unrefined/refined)
Turpentine
Flash point - 35 degree C
Boiling point - 157 degree C
Auto ignite - 253 degree C
Very cool - thanks for sharing this!
Could pine resin be used in the same way? Suitable as bow varnish?
Could pine resin be used in the same way? Suitable as bow varnish?
Just tried the varnish containing pine resin, it is working fine, although drying takes long time.