thumb ring nock
Hallo Leute,
Today I got a korean-style thumbring from Prof.Duvernay.
I used to shoot with my simple self-made thumbring of rubber. This new one however has an incision on its base which I didnt quite realize on photos of thumb rings before, but I noticed its very conveniant to nock the string on the ring with the help of this incision, for use with my heavy 80#@28" bow which I usually draw to 31".
I couldnt test the release yet (work+bad weather) but it seems one could easily amputate some part of his thumb with a faulty release from this position and a heavy bow.
My question is whether this is the foreseen technique.
See photos pls
best regards, Uli
Today I got a korean-style thumbring from Prof.Duvernay.
I used to shoot with my simple self-made thumbring of rubber. This new one however has an incision on its base which I didnt quite realize on photos of thumb rings before, but I noticed its very conveniant to nock the string on the ring with the help of this incision, for use with my heavy 80#@28" bow which I usually draw to 31".
I couldnt test the release yet (work+bad weather) but it seems one could easily amputate some part of his thumb with a faulty release from this position and a heavy bow.
My question is whether this is the foreseen technique.
See photos pls
best regards, Uli
These grooves are a bit of a fashion but they are not really relevant. If you try to draw with the string balanced on the groove, they draw will not be stable. When nocking on horseback, you will not be able to locate the groove effectively without looking at it. Just fix the string on the lip of the thumb hole.
Hi Uli,
The notch is mainly to let the excess skin from your thumb have somewhere to go, which makes the draw more comfortable. Older rings usually didn't have that, but nowadays you see them on most rings here in Korea.
T
The notch is mainly to let the excess skin from your thumb have somewhere to go, which makes the draw more comfortable. Older rings usually didn't have that, but nowadays you see them on most rings here in Korea.
T
There are some flatter Korean rings with a distinct straight groove cut into the surface of the ring (shallow cut with an awl). This was clearly to position the string and some modern ring makers in America have combined this with another style of ring (from Fustat in Egypt) to produce a deep groove at the base of the tip. You could consider this a safety ring! However, you pay for the groove with a slightly slower and jerkier release. On heavy bows this is not noticeable.
Before my 80 lb bow broke, I was shooting it with a flat lipped copper ring and a round lipped horn ring. Rings that are too short lead to you finger tip being hit by the string or pressured by the ring tip. Ones that are too long prevent a strong clench or lock and it is harder to draw the bow.
Before my 80 lb bow broke, I was shooting it with a flat lipped copper ring and a round lipped horn ring. Rings that are too short lead to you finger tip being hit by the string or pressured by the ring tip. Ones that are too long prevent a strong clench or lock and it is harder to draw the bow.
Thanks for your hints guys,
I tested the release and using whatever technique (only with the heavy bow) it wasnt possible to pull the nocked ring from the string at full draw without applying much power, and even worse, I newer knew when it would snap off - even lost grip on the bow during release (ouch).
But I found the error: my bowstring simply was too thin and would stack at the knock/lip. So I wrapped a leather patch around it, now the release is smooooth.
;-) Uli
I tested the release and using whatever technique (only with the heavy bow) it wasnt possible to pull the nocked ring from the string at full draw without applying much power, and even worse, I newer knew when it would snap off - even lost grip on the bow during release (ouch).
But I found the error: my bowstring simply was too thin and would stack at the knock/lip. So I wrapped a leather patch around it, now the release is smooooth.
;-) Uli