New Hornbow
Thank`s to you all on the atarnet for all information. I Finally made it.
It`s 48" n/n 7" handle and 5" v-splice for shiya.
The core is made of elm,shiya of Large-leafed Lime and the handle of maple.
Large-leafed Lime is really soft wood so i guess the horn piece is necessary.
i don't know the draw weight but i measured the speed today and with arrows from 470 -570 grain between 185 -200 i had tree arrows at 233 but i not shore those measure is correct.
Unfortunately the limbs is a bit twisted and it occurred in the sinew process .
Is it possible to correct this? and if how ?
or should i put the bow in a bucket of water and start all over :lol:
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It`s 48" n/n 7" handle and 5" v-splice for shiya.
The core is made of elm,shiya of Large-leafed Lime and the handle of maple.
Large-leafed Lime is really soft wood so i guess the horn piece is necessary.
i don't know the draw weight but i measured the speed today and with arrows from 470 -570 grain between 185 -200 i had tree arrows at 233 but i not shore those measure is correct.
Unfortunately the limbs is a bit twisted and it occurred in the sinew process .
Is it possible to correct this? and if how ?
or should i put the bow in a bucket of water and start all over :lol:
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You are doing very well, congratulations.
It seems both arms are twisted. You need to warm both arms over an electric element (the bow is not strung for this). The heating is best done in the kasan eye sections (close to sal). It should be done slowly, not too close to the heat source. The heat should penetrate deeper into the bow, but the temperature can not be more than 50deg, otherwise there is a danger of delamination. It will feel very warm to touch and the arms will be more flexible. Then un-twist the arms as needed, to overshoot a little and hold in the corrected position until cooled. This may need to be repeated. The bow may gain reflex from heat - if you want to avoid this, put a stick between the tips to pry them apart during the straightening and cooling.
Such twisting in the unstrung position may not actually be bad. The bow may still have the arms straight when strung and shot. This is normal.
One arm of the bow seems to be a bit too stiff close to grip. It can be corrected by scraping horn there - a few passes with a scraper should do.
Good luck
Adam
It seems both arms are twisted. You need to warm both arms over an electric element (the bow is not strung for this). The heating is best done in the kasan eye sections (close to sal). It should be done slowly, not too close to the heat source. The heat should penetrate deeper into the bow, but the temperature can not be more than 50deg, otherwise there is a danger of delamination. It will feel very warm to touch and the arms will be more flexible. Then un-twist the arms as needed, to overshoot a little and hold in the corrected position until cooled. This may need to be repeated. The bow may gain reflex from heat - if you want to avoid this, put a stick between the tips to pry them apart during the straightening and cooling.
Such twisting in the unstrung position may not actually be bad. The bow may still have the arms straight when strung and shot. This is normal.
One arm of the bow seems to be a bit too stiff close to grip. It can be corrected by scraping horn there - a few passes with a scraper should do.
Good luck
Adam
Thanks for your advice Adam I?ll will try this out.
/ Puzio
/ Puzio
I heated the limbs with electrical heatings pads, they has a temperature of 54 degree Celsius and it came out quite good
The draw weight is at this moment is 65lb @ 27"
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The draw weight is at this moment is 65lb @ 27"
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